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I have just replaced my clock spring in my 2007 NS pajero. My cruise light was on , on the display but the controls stopped working at 240k km's. For a short while they worked if I tried it lots of times. I checked the sender units others have referred to underneath. Mitsubishi quoted me $50 to try an diagnose the fault.
I used part no 8619AO18 from Kowze auto parts on Ali express. They have parts on ebay but only up to gen 3 and NP...
I found the details via the clock spring unit thread https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=40645[/url]
I paid $49 US plus $7 uS for the cheapest faster shipping and got it in 16 days,
I used Slo78u post on 15/3/2015 details at
and IronMan post on 21/6/14
to replace it.
The new Kowze part looks identical to the OME which I was quoted $380 for.
There is a little white plastic clip with a ring pull on it..dont take this off untill the part is installed. It makes sense when you have the old one to play with.
It took me three hours in total. Should take an hour if you had done it before. The main problem I had was the clips on the terminals so thats why I am writing this.
My steps were: Clock Spring Unit (CSU) removal:
1) disconnected battery and put lights on, break pedal down etc to make sure no residual power as per other posts.
2) removed top and bottom plastic covers over steering wheel column on dash side. There are two screws undeneath near the tip of the steering column height adjustment lever...then pry the top and bottom apart, starting near the seround of the indicator stalk and the wiper stalk.
3) looking up from the foot well, remove the little plastic plate at the bottom of the steering wheel. This reveals a yellow (to airbag from CSU ) and a black(horn) terminal blocks.
Black block : put small screw driver up and press down on the clip you can see, then remove terminal.
Yellow block...this is what had me stumped. you know from the new CSU it has a short block but the only clips I could see were on either side, 5 cm up near the top of the long yellow assembly.....these are not relevent, trust me. If you look at the new CSU you see the outside of the yellow plug slides up and down the inside bit that has the wires of the yellow terminal block. The outside part locks in the terminal. To remove this plug you hold the out side edges 1cm up from the base of the yellow assembly and pull down...this frees the central part of the plug (where the wires are) and you can pull it down...
4) On either side of the main steering wheel assembly are two torx bit screws in a hole. Using a #30 torx bit undo these. The plastic hole has barbs that stop you getting them back out..I jiggled them until thy dropped down inside the plastic steering wheel assembly so i knew they were out.
The other 2 philips heads nearby, facing towards the driver, hold the cruise and sound panel buttons and you dont touch these...
5) 4 clips hold air bag assembly (centre of steering wheel) on, as per Slo78u instructions pull off, starting at the top.
6) Now you can see the central steering wheel nut, loosen but DON'T REMOVE NUT COMPLETELY as it will stop you pulling the wheel all the way off as you pop it off, there are still some wires we need to disconnect and we don't want to rip em off.
7) knees under steering wheel, pull on top until it moves on spline and will pop off.
8) I cleaned the two ring terminal that screw onto the aluminium housing as in PaulF 28/7/14 post https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=40645
( they go to illumination LED of cruise buttons) and can become corroded) but mine seemed ok
9) unplug the black terminal block from the base of the CSU, it has an obviuos black clip to press down on. Take steering wheel off.
10) Remove old CSU by two screws. There are two plugs at the rear of it, I carefully tilted CSU top forward untill I could get it off (there are spikes on the back of it into the white plastic housing which help locate it) and I could more easily get at the plugs on the bottom rear of it, facing the dash.
The two plugs ,one black and one yellow have obvious clips to press down for removal but the green tab also needs to be folded down as well when removing the yellow plug
11) Replace with new clock spring unit (CSU). The grey grease lubricant on the face of the white plastic housing is supposed to be there.
Once the new CSU is in the slots of the white plastic ring housing you can pull the lock ring tab off the CSU.
I suggest you dont over tighten the 2 screws holding the CSU on as its only into a white plastic housing
12) replace the plugs on back of CSU (from step 10)and fold the green tab back up, put SCU back on, reinstall steering wheel. Before I put the airbag back in and its connector, I connected battery and drove the car to make sure I had the steering wheel on the correct spline for straight ahead.
Then I disconnected battery and switched lights on, pressed brake etc to make sure no residual current before reinstalling air bag.
I hope this helps.
As a post script: at the start, I followed the suggestions to make sure there was no residual current by disconnecting the battery and putting my foot on the brakes...and I also switched on the lights for extra paranoia. I thought the circuit will not be open unless I turn the key on...which I did, even though the battery was disconnected....however when I put it all back together the air bag warning light was on.....I wasn't worried as I did the clock spring deliberately before the air bag recall and the local dealer are good people with my foibles so they reset it for me when they did the air bag.....I suggest you do nothing but disconnect the battery or plus maybe wait a while or perhaps just flash the high beam lever ( which works with key in off position anyway) but don't turn the key on even if the battery is disconnected. OR maybe (and more likely) step 12 was the cause of the airbag warning light coming on as I had the battery connected but no airbag was connected...I don't know how you would be sure you got the steering wheel back on the correct spline without step 12.....someone else will have to make a suggestion.
Had to do another clock spring at 250,000 km, cheaper on ebay, just disconnected the battery and no error light afterwards. I put marks on with white out pen to get steering wheel back on same splines.
I used part no 8619AO18 from Kowze auto parts on Ali express. They have parts on ebay but only up to gen 3 and NP...
I found the details via the clock spring unit thread https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=40645[/url]
I paid $49 US plus $7 uS for the cheapest faster shipping and got it in 16 days,
I used Slo78u post on 15/3/2015 details at
and IronMan post on 21/6/14
to replace it.
The new Kowze part looks identical to the OME which I was quoted $380 for.
There is a little white plastic clip with a ring pull on it..dont take this off untill the part is installed. It makes sense when you have the old one to play with.
It took me three hours in total. Should take an hour if you had done it before. The main problem I had was the clips on the terminals so thats why I am writing this.
My steps were: Clock Spring Unit (CSU) removal:
1) disconnected battery and put lights on, break pedal down etc to make sure no residual power as per other posts.
2) removed top and bottom plastic covers over steering wheel column on dash side. There are two screws undeneath near the tip of the steering column height adjustment lever...then pry the top and bottom apart, starting near the seround of the indicator stalk and the wiper stalk.
3) looking up from the foot well, remove the little plastic plate at the bottom of the steering wheel. This reveals a yellow (to airbag from CSU ) and a black(horn) terminal blocks.
Black block : put small screw driver up and press down on the clip you can see, then remove terminal.
Yellow block...this is what had me stumped. you know from the new CSU it has a short block but the only clips I could see were on either side, 5 cm up near the top of the long yellow assembly.....these are not relevent, trust me. If you look at the new CSU you see the outside of the yellow plug slides up and down the inside bit that has the wires of the yellow terminal block. The outside part locks in the terminal. To remove this plug you hold the out side edges 1cm up from the base of the yellow assembly and pull down...this frees the central part of the plug (where the wires are) and you can pull it down...
4) On either side of the main steering wheel assembly are two torx bit screws in a hole. Using a #30 torx bit undo these. The plastic hole has barbs that stop you getting them back out..I jiggled them until thy dropped down inside the plastic steering wheel assembly so i knew they were out.
The other 2 philips heads nearby, facing towards the driver, hold the cruise and sound panel buttons and you dont touch these...
5) 4 clips hold air bag assembly (centre of steering wheel) on, as per Slo78u instructions pull off, starting at the top.
6) Now you can see the central steering wheel nut, loosen but DON'T REMOVE NUT COMPLETELY as it will stop you pulling the wheel all the way off as you pop it off, there are still some wires we need to disconnect and we don't want to rip em off.
7) knees under steering wheel, pull on top until it moves on spline and will pop off.
8) I cleaned the two ring terminal that screw onto the aluminium housing as in PaulF 28/7/14 post https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=40645
( they go to illumination LED of cruise buttons) and can become corroded) but mine seemed ok
9) unplug the black terminal block from the base of the CSU, it has an obviuos black clip to press down on. Take steering wheel off.
10) Remove old CSU by two screws. There are two plugs at the rear of it, I carefully tilted CSU top forward untill I could get it off (there are spikes on the back of it into the white plastic housing which help locate it) and I could more easily get at the plugs on the bottom rear of it, facing the dash.
The two plugs ,one black and one yellow have obvious clips to press down for removal but the green tab also needs to be folded down as well when removing the yellow plug
11) Replace with new clock spring unit (CSU). The grey grease lubricant on the face of the white plastic housing is supposed to be there.
Once the new CSU is in the slots of the white plastic ring housing you can pull the lock ring tab off the CSU.
I suggest you dont over tighten the 2 screws holding the CSU on as its only into a white plastic housing
12) replace the plugs on back of CSU (from step 10)and fold the green tab back up, put SCU back on, reinstall steering wheel. Before I put the airbag back in and its connector, I connected battery and drove the car to make sure I had the steering wheel on the correct spline for straight ahead.
Then I disconnected battery and switched lights on, pressed brake etc to make sure no residual current before reinstalling air bag.
I hope this helps.
As a post script: at the start, I followed the suggestions to make sure there was no residual current by disconnecting the battery and putting my foot on the brakes...and I also switched on the lights for extra paranoia. I thought the circuit will not be open unless I turn the key on...which I did, even though the battery was disconnected....however when I put it all back together the air bag warning light was on.....I wasn't worried as I did the clock spring deliberately before the air bag recall and the local dealer are good people with my foibles so they reset it for me when they did the air bag.....I suggest you do nothing but disconnect the battery or plus maybe wait a while or perhaps just flash the high beam lever ( which works with key in off position anyway) but don't turn the key on even if the battery is disconnected. OR maybe (and more likely) step 12 was the cause of the airbag warning light coming on as I had the battery connected but no airbag was connected...I don't know how you would be sure you got the steering wheel back on the correct spline without step 12.....someone else will have to make a suggestion.
Had to do another clock spring at 250,000 km, cheaper on ebay, just disconnected the battery and no error light afterwards. I put marks on with white out pen to get steering wheel back on same splines.
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