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Clunk in rear diff?

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  • MrIsuzu1
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 29
    • Cairns

    #16
    I have an NT manual with less than 85,000 on the clock. No clunking noises, but I would to check the rear nuts. Can someone please confirm if both sides are RH thread or is the passenger side LH thread. Thanks
    2010 NT GLX, RD lock, Smartbar, Warn winch, Uniden UHF, Piranha dual battery, Redarc Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz protection

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    • erad
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2015
      • 5067
      • Cooma NSW

      #17
      RH threads both sides.

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      • MrIsuzu1
        Junior Member
        • Sep 2012
        • 29
        • Cairns

        #18
        Thanks for the info. I've got a couple of days off from tomorrow, so will be breaking out the 3/4" socket set and breaker bar to check mine.
        2010 NT GLX, RD lock, Smartbar, Warn winch, Uniden UHF, Piranha dual battery, Redarc Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz protection

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        • spiderpig
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 309

          #19
          Hmmm ive got a clunk coming from the back area somewhere when backing off throttle and touching throttle again, sounds like play in the diff or tail shaft but maybe its the drive shaft/hub nuts??

          NT Auto Paj, tow a van a bit, 160k on the clock.

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          • spiderpig
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2008
            • 309

            #20
            Originally posted by Bernie55 View Post
            Had the same clunking noise problem with my NT, 140000km on the clock. I tow a 20ft caravan so this would have helped exacerbate the problem. I was convinced the diff bushes were the reason for the sound as they are worn but after reading the thread I went out and brought a 36mm socket and checked the drive shaft /hub nuts. The right hand side nut was that tight I couldn’t move it with just a breaker bar, so decided it must be tight enough. The passenger’s side was very easy to undo, I had marked it with a sharpie, and then retightened it and got about 5 minutes on a clock face movement, which was enough to fix the problem. I don’t know how much torque it was but it was as tight as I could get it with my ½” breaker bar. The castle shaped washer which holds the nut in position, has progressive spacing so just keep turning it until the whole for the split pin lines up with one. Does anyone have any idea why this “stretching” of the left hand drive shaft occurs, while the right hand seems to be relatively unaffected?
            Found the exact same thing with our NT today. Right side tight as left side just a tiny bit of movement with a breaker bar.
            Took it for a drive and clunk has gone....

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            • Hatto
              Valued Member
              • Nov 2013
              • 1208
              • Mandurah WA

              #21
              Should the axle nut be tightened with the wheels on or off the ground?
              Cheers, Hatto

              2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
              ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

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              • spiderpig
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2008
                • 309

                #22
                Wheel needed to be off to get to cap that covers nut. Could do one side at a time, I had the whole back of car jacked, in park with handbrake on.

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                • erad
                  Valued Member
                  • Mar 2015
                  • 5067
                  • Cooma NSW

                  #23
                  Originally posted by 0415discog View Post
                  Should the axle nut be tightened with the wheels on or off the ground?
                  People here say that the vehicle should not be on the ground when you tighten the axle nut. That condition certainly applies for the suspension bushes (you don't want them bound up under tension in the normal running position), but I doubt that it would matter with the axle nut. With the axle nut, it is not loaded with the suspension - its loading is purely torque. I would put the wheel on the ground and tighten it up (that's what I did anyway)

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