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  • draganlada
    Member
    • Dec 2010
    • 171
    • sydney

    #16
    Recently my front suspension arms bushes were replaced with superpro ones as my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones ( mitsubishi is selling complete arm only at $ 500- each) Now I'm not happy with the ride,to stiff,road noise increased,steering to sensitive and car feels anything front tyre touches ...
    It cost me $ 900- supplied and fitted but if I can source new rubber bushes I'll change them over to get my conffy ride back again.

    Comment

    • kiwi1973
      Valued Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 1178
      • New Zealand

      #17
      Originally posted by draganlada View Post
      Recently my front suspension arms bushes were replaced with superpro ones as my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones ( mitsubishi is selling complete arm only at $ 500- each) Now I'm not happy with the ride,to stiff,road noise increased,steering to sensitive and car feels anything front tyre touches ...
      It cost me $ 900- supplied and fitted but if I can source new rubber bushes I'll change them over to get my conffy ride back again.
      Whilst it's quite right to look for alternatives to Mitsubishi's complete arm's at $500 each, it's not remotely credible that the mechanic couldn't find a supplier for aftermarket rubber bushes to fit. I'm not at all doubting you were told that, just that your mechanic surely had other reasons/incentives for not tracking down some rubber bushes, which would have been readily available from a number of suppliers. It may have been he couldn't be bothered taking precise measurements in order to identify a match, or perhaps he simply gets a fatter margin on the more expensive superpro product.
      2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

      Comment

      • tommo123
        Member
        • Dec 2012
        • 56
        • SE Queensland

        #18
        Originally posted by draganlada View Post
        my mechanic could not find supplier for rubber ones .
        Febest sell rubber bushs via ebay. Good prices too.

        Comment

        • talltim40
          Junior Member
          • Dec 2014
          • 11
          • NT

          #19
          Any ideas or tips on removing the rear drive shaft from the Diff? I've undone all the bolts but shes not budging!
          Does it help to have the car lifted off the ground to spin the shaft at all? Driving me nuts!
          Any help would be much appreciated!

          Cheers

          Comment

          • PradoEater
            Valued Member
            • Aug 2012
            • 445
            • Oatley

            #20
            Have you taken all bolts off for sure? I think there may be 6 or more. We're are talking about the rear prop shaft?
            NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
            Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

            Comment

            • Hatto
              Valued Member
              • Nov 2013
              • 1208
              • Mandurah WA

              #21
              It does just pull off. I had to get a flat screwdriver in the joint and once I did that it was easy. Note, there was a bit of corrosion in there sticking the two bits together. Good luck.
              Cheers, Hatto

              2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
              ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

              Comment

              • talltim40
                Junior Member
                • Dec 2014
                • 11
                • NT

                #22
                Yeah I've got all 6 off. Just can't separate it! Hit a few times with a mallet but dont want to do any damage.

                Do I need to have the diff pulled back somehow?

                Comment

                • PradoEater
                  Valued Member
                  • Aug 2012
                  • 445
                  • Oatley

                  #23
                  Nope shaft should move with the diff in place, from memory shaft has like a locating guide similar to the wheel hubs for the wheels. I can imagine this a bit corroded and giving you grief now. Try the above idea with screw driver, make sure you put locating marks for when you outing it back.

                  May I ask what's the reason for removing the shaft? You don't have broken rear diff do you
                  NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                  Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                  Comment

                  • PradoEater
                    Valued Member
                    • Aug 2012
                    • 445
                    • Oatley

                    #24
                    Here's a pic from the diff you may just see the rust and that ring or locating bit thingy
                    Attached Files
                    NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                    Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                    Comment

                    • talltim40
                      Junior Member
                      • Dec 2014
                      • 11
                      • NT

                      #25
                      Sweet, thanks all! I'll give that a go.
                      Trying to follow the OP instructions to get the bushes out, but I'm keen to do both back and front, 4 in total. I've ordered a new bolt for the Bush as dropping the fuel tank seems like way to much work and stuffing around to get the bolt out. Any massive objection to cutting the bolt and putting a new one in the other way around?
                      @PradoEater not at this stage, see how it plays out I guess...

                      Cheers!

                      Comment

                      • PradoEater
                        Valued Member
                        • Aug 2012
                        • 445
                        • Oatley

                        #26
                        good luck mate also maybe spray some wd or some sort of penetrator overnight may help you.
                        NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                        Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                        Comment

                        • ItsAllNew
                          Junior Member
                          • Mar 2014
                          • 18
                          • Perth, WA

                          #27
                          Originally posted by talltim40 View Post
                          Sweet, thanks all! I'll give that a go.
                          Trying to follow the OP instructions to get the bushes out, but I'm keen to do both back and front, 4 in total. I've ordered a new bolt for the Bush as dropping the fuel tank seems like way to much work and stuffing around to get the bolt out. Any massive objection to cutting the bolt and putting a new one in the other way around?
                          @PradoEater not at this stage, see how it plays out I guess...

                          Cheers!
                          I've just undone mine last weekend.. once all bolts were undone mine separated easily.. but they are a close fit so corrosion will cause it to stick..

                          We went with the bolt cut on right front mount to avoid removal of tank. Or was almost full.. front mount bushes burnt out and replaced with nolathane ones. Rears to do tomorrow. Second attempt as first caused 16mm threaded bar to strip.

                          Getting high tensile bolt today..



                          Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

                          Comment

                          • talltim40
                            Junior Member
                            • Dec 2014
                            • 11
                            • NT

                            #28
                            I've ordered the bolt from MMA but have to get it from Japan (4 wk delay), so gonna wait until that arrives to give the whole thing a go. Where did you get the bolt from?

                            Comment

                            • kiwi1973
                              Valued Member
                              • Sep 2012
                              • 1178
                              • New Zealand

                              #29
                              It's not that difficult to drop the fuel tank to access the bolt. Fuel tank just needs to be lowered on a jack rather than fully removed. Also, you may find that the front bushes are still fine long after the rear diff bushes are shot, though admittedly not easy to tell until that front member is removed for inspection. I strongly advise fitting rubber bushes and avoiding nolathane type products if possible, especially on a 4wd. But that's just my opinion.
                              2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

                              Comment

                              • PradoEater
                                Valued Member
                                • Aug 2012
                                • 445
                                • Oatley

                                #30
                                Guys which bolt are we talking about here? I had no issues accessing any of the bolts to remove the rear diff, on my car bolts went from bottom up and nut was on top of diff.
                                I used the Mitsubishi rubber bushes rear ones that is front looked ok on mine. I nolataned rest of the car yes they are stiffer but easier to replace
                                NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                                Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                                Comment

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