E lockers

[Tradey]

Hi new to forum so if im asking a question that has been done previously i appologies
Im lookin for a way to stop a elocker being activated unless the mn triton is in low range 4wd
I own a glxr ,so far it has been fitted with tough dog lift kit with adjustable dampers 300 kg rear springs standard fronts and air bags
I intend to fit harrop front diff locker as i dont want a winch or bull bar and feel more comfortable with that instead of all that weight over the front but still want to get out of the shite fights with the minimium amount of stress on the vehicle
Has any one done this to there triton
Thx greg

[aus_andyk]

Firstly, welcome to the forum Greg.

I asked the exact same question in post #20 in the thread below:

http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37950

Read through the whole thread so you get an understanding of the mod, then apply the principle to the e-locker.

Good luck

[old Jack]

Hi Greg,

Welcome to the forum, yes it should be possible but I do not have circuit diagrams for your Triton.

If you have a good electrical understanding or know someone that does, then the Challenger circuit diagrams below maybe go some use. You have not told us if you have an Auto 4 or 5 speed or Manual trans, or a factory rear diff lock and this may have an impact on the design of the mod.

Be warned the Mitsubishi ECU's are very voltage and resistance sensitive, never measure circuit voltage or resistance on the pins or sockets, always measure from the back of the plug where the wire enters, as the pins and sockets are easily damaged and you can generated permanent fault codes that can not be cleared.

Also you need to have a scan tool to clear temporary fault codes when you are experimenting, if you are not confident in your ability then it could end in tears and loss of $$$!

Have you tried the Newtriton Forum?

cheers, old Jack.

[Tradey]

Thx guys i appreciate your input i will let u know how i go

[Ent]

How did you go?

I have ordered an Eloker with the idea that the rear diff lock needs to be active before it can be switched in. This will allow all the Mitsubishi protocols to be meet. Well that is the plan.

[Dave NP]

Can anyone advise how they have found the elocker in comparison to the arb air locker?

[Ent]

I have fitted an Elocker to the front and found it very good. Works lot faster than the factory locker in engaging.

Basically from my perspective it is a simpler mechanism so should be more reliable as the ARB option relies both on electricity and air. The big issue with the ARB in not catastrophic failure as they are undoubtly strongly engineered but failure of air seals that while very low in part cost are very expensive to fit if you are paying someone to do them.

The shop that fitted my Elocker has a Triton with an ARB front locker and twice have replaced air seals. The ARB system works on much higher pressures than the factory locker so stresses the seals more.

Rumour has it ARB had a bad batch of seals but honestly I have no idea if this was/is the case.

One thing an Elocker does do it unlocks and relocks when going forward to reverse but that happens in a quarter of a wheel turn. Theoretically if brutal you might break something but in my case with all wheels locked I am gentle as the binding forces would be quite high.

For me I engage when stationery, either as a preventive measure or once stuck.

I have fitted the 2.7 low range gear with 40% lower gearing, hence higher torque multiplier, so I am gentle as rather loading up components. So this is likely why I have had no issues.

To me the choice is a personal one driven by price and if people see advantages in an on board compressor. Mine is wired in only to engage if the rear diff lock is engaged as I do not want the front locker to fight the electronic ABS, TC and ESC logic. Engaging the rear diff lock takes the electronic aids off-line.

Cheers