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  • ebh
    Junior Member
    • Jul 2014
    • 21
    • Stockholm

    NS 2009 Pajero

    Started off with installing OME lift kit.

    Before:


    Had to cut most of the bolts as they was rusted.




    Bougth some new bolts from Milner, but some of them was stripped long before the rigth torque was reached.


    So had to get some new ones from Mitsu.

    Anyhow the kit was mounted,


    And this is the result:
  • ebh
    Junior Member
    • Jul 2014
    • 21
    • Stockholm

    #2
    After the local workshop had stated that the brake down was due to a engine failure,
    in the meantime we bougth a spare car to move the holiday gear back to our home.


    Later we got the car towed back to Bergen.

    Car safely arrived home.


    This was the state of the engine:

    The EGR was pretty stuffed.



    Later I ordered a new engine from Netherland( EET Engine), of course it arrvied at my apartment.
    Luckily the Skoda har room for an engine in the boot.
    Last edited by ebh; 08-07-18, 08:48 AM.

    Comment

    • ebh
      Junior Member
      • Jul 2014
      • 21
      • Stockholm

      #3
      Old and new engine:


      After the workshop had changed the engine I replaced the intercooler and EGR.



      After 300km the car started to make a hard knocking sound,


      Then again the car got towed to the workshop, engine was removed and sent to Netherland.
      New replacement engine was installed and I tougth it would be sorted out as a warranty issue.

      Later these pictures arrived from Netherland




      They (ETT engines) claimed I had been driving without cooling fluid which resulted in the scuffed piston. Strange since I had been driving for over 300km.

      Anyhow all parts( turbo, injectors etc.) was moved from broken engine to new new! engine and has been running good for 12 000 km.

      Comment

      • ebh
        Junior Member
        • Jul 2014
        • 21
        • Stockholm

        #4
        One problem that still remains unsolved is the hill climbing limp mode.

        From the MUT3 I get the code p1298, which relates to high boost pressure.
        I thought I start of by replacing the MAP sensor, bought a Denso MAP from ebay, which I lost somewhere in my house. Therefore I decided to move on and clean the variable vanes on the turbo. I had read that they could get filled with carbon and start sticking.






        They were not so filthy nor were they stuck.



        Cleaned:


        Measured the voltage on the MAP sensor to 1,23V and according to page 26 in this manual:


        1,23V could be right at 100kpa(1atm).


        On my way home I had the MUT3 connected and read the boost pressure, went all the way up to 250kpa on the flat.

        So now im thinking of replacing the MAP sensor and/or
        Variable geometry solenoid valve
        Variable geometry actuator



        Anyone know how to test the actuator and the valve?

        Comment

        • KrAsh
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2014
          • 40
          • SE Melbourne

          #5
          Have a read about the factory overboost issues with the L200 (triton). Believe it's a trait of the VGTurbo, affects some not all, is normally rectified with an aftermarket Dawes valve setup.

          I've not had it touch wood but is a hair pulling frustration for a lot of people.

          Comment

          • ebh
            Junior Member
            • Jul 2014
            • 21
            • Stockholm

            #6
            To troubleshoot the overboost issue some more, I bought a vakuum pump to test the MAP, actuator and the solenoid.


            - Vacuum at front metal vacuum pipe:

            The pressure on the cars vacuum system is just above 172 kPa

            - Map sensor readout on the vacuum gauge corresponded with the value on the MUT3, so this should be fine, this was tested at various pressures.


            - VGT actuator:


            The actuator arm moved at around 46-50kPa like it says in the manual above, but what I dont understand is that the diaphragm can be damage if you go over 58kPa. At this pressure the actuator was not in fully open position, to reach fully open I had to apply around 100 kPa. Could this
            mean that the actuator is broken? The arm and variable vanes move freely.


            - Solenoid:

            The solenoid would not hold more than 69 kPa vacuum with nipple B closed and 6V applied.

            If this is correct how can it be able to fully open the actuator which needs 100 kPa?
            Measured resistance was right between the figures mentioned in the manual.

            Video:




            Either is the actuator to heavy for the solenoid or the solenoid is to weak.
            Actuator needs 100 kPa wile the solenoid can only hold 69 kPa.


            Im leaning towards replacing the solenoid....

            Comment

            • craka
              Valued Member
              • Jun 2009
              • 2057
              • Newcastle (Newie)

              #7
              Just double check that the vacuum hoses are in good condtion.
              On the NS, not sure about later models, the short piece of hose that connects to the MAP inlet can get a small pin hole or split developing. It's a little bit of a common issue.
              NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

              Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

              Comment

              • ebh
                Junior Member
                • Jul 2014
                • 21
                • Stockholm

                #8
                The rubber hose from the inlet manifold to the MAP has been pressure tested when I tested the MAP sensor.


                Earlier it was full of carbon build up, so I was hoping that removing it would fix the issue but no..

                Comment

                • ebh
                  Junior Member
                  • Jul 2014
                  • 21
                  • Stockholm

                  #9
                  Soldered in a resistor a year ago on the MAF sensor to avoid the EGR openening, in addition Ive also added a blanking plate at the exhaust cooler side.
                  Last edited by ebh; 30-11-18, 07:25 AM.

                  Comment

                  • Ky1e
                    Member
                    • Aug 2015
                    • 106
                    • Muswellbrook

                    #10
                    I would be interested to see what effect the IAT input to the ECU reading 20c lower than actual on the fuel injection mapping. There must be a change to quantity or duration surely?

                    Comment

                    • ebh
                      Junior Member
                      • Jul 2014
                      • 21
                      • Stockholm

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Ky1e View Post
                      I would be interested to see what effect the IAT input to the ECU reading 20c lower than actual on the fuel injection mapping. There must be a change to quantity or duration surely?
                      You could be right, I have no idea.
                      Uploaded a video of MUT3 software showing EGR opening. Don't think I selected the correct logging input cause these are all showing around 20 degrees on a 3 degree day.



                      Also changed the VGT solenoid after struggling with fault code p1298 high pressure inlet manifold.
                      Now its boosting around 240 only for a second or so before it went all the way up to 270 or so....


                      Was hoping that a new lower ball joint should get rid of the clunk I have from the front left side of the car when I am going forward/reverse and stopping.
                      Earlier I have changed the upper ball joint and all the bushings on the suspension. Guess I just have to look further, think I might start of with inspecting the caliper more thorough.

                      This is before it was fully fastened.

                      Comment

                      • gta1898
                        Member
                        • Jan 2014
                        • 120
                        • Chester. UK

                        #12
                        Good to see your doing a great job in making your Pajero fit for the future. Keep the posts coming, great information thanks
                        Graham

                        Shogun / Pajero MY14 SG2 / GLX, Manual, Eiger Grey, Limo Tints, SPV 3.1, 18" Factory alloys in satin black.

                        Comment

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