What do you think of these?

[old Jack]

Hi Rob & Tombo,

16" will give you better choice in tyres at a cheaper price.

At +20 & +25 offset, these rims are a long way of standard offset of+38, so not only are they illegal in most states of Australia there are also some potential handling issues.

http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=42891

cheers, old Jack.

[greig]

Hi Rob & Tombo,

16" will give you better choice in tyres at a cheaper price.

At +20 & +25 offset, these rims are a long way of standard offset of+38, so not only are they illegal in most states of Australia there are also some potential handling issues.

http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=42891

cheers, old Jack.

I thought you could have up to 50mm increase in track ?? oops, just looked it up...25mm...means it would be out by 1mm with the 17's..

Anyway Tombo, the plasti dip is a lot cheaper than new wheels !! and looks good as well !!

[fester]

I thought you could have up to 50mm increase in track ?? oops, just looked it up...25mm...means it would be out by 1mm with the 17's..
!!

It was always the case that live axles were 50mm and independent axles were 25mm but apparently it has changed. I think though the change might only be under VSB14, apparently that's the ruling here in Qld now (50mm all round).

[Ent]

Factory wheel nuts are 21mm and washer type meaning that the factory alloy is centred by the hub. Just because they can, Mitsubishi steel spare uses a taper on the same nut so the spare is stud centred. And the rules? You must use the same method as the manufacturer!!!! Go figure as the base Triton with steel wheels is stud centred but upgrade to factory alloys and then hub centred. Using alloys and steel spare best to get a spare set of nuts for the spare or five alloys.

Agree offset too much. More and more rims are coming out with the 35mm option which matches in with the BT50/Ranger I am told. Also pushing the wheel out means more likely to rub if you decided on a taller profile. It is the outside edge where clearances get tight with my setup. Also you might sneak a little over the guard, definitely lower down the guard will not be as effective and my mud tyres love bathing the vehicle in mud let alone been 10mm further out.

And from the voice of experience, that centre hub will likely need to be removed to undo the wheel nuts to avoid damaging it. So need to pack matching allan key. Also that plastic hub is rather vulnerable off road plus fragile even on road. I use thin walked 3/8 socket to avoid removing hubs but even then have marked them using a rattle gun. That is the XJ rim I am writing about

[02-SR5]

I was running a set of Gun Metal 7 rims in a 17 x 8.5 with a +25 offset with a 275/70/17 STZ tyre.

Perfect fit, no rubbing and best of all, improved the handling too. This is why I am looking (still getting a quote) at getting the same size rim, but machined to fit the factory hub and wheels nuts for the factory alloys.

Its going to cost, but at least, I will have the rim size and offset I want, but it will be fitted as per Mitsubishi specifications.

Aftermarket wheels have a hub hole no less than 100mm and the wheels are support by the studs.

[4wd26]

I would be interested in what price you get
I would be looking at +15 offset (still legal in QLD for my vehicle) and agree it does improve the handling

[old Jack]

I thought you could have up to 50mm increase in track ?? oops, just looked it up...25mm...means it would be out by 1mm with the 17's..

Anyway Tombo, the plasti dip is a lot cheaper than new wheels !! and looks good as well !!

If VSB-14 is used in your state then no change to track width is permitted if vehicle is fitted with ASC/ESC. I know we can switch it off, but it is illegal to permanently switch off. Go figure! I do not make the rules. We might see the reviewed VSB-14 sometime next year.

cheers, old Jack.

[Ent]

I would be interested in what price you get
I would be looking at +15 offset (still legal in QLD for my vehicle) and agree it does improve the handling

Interesting the comment on improved handling. My reading suggests that negative scrub is done to avoid pulling to one side when a braking circuit is out. Prior to X brake circuits and power steering (any one remember non power assisted steering?) positive offset was used to reduce the effort when cornering, so is the improved handling merely the feeling of lighter steering?

Back in the dim dark days of unassisted front drum brakes cars would pull dramatically to one side depending on which drum brake decided to grab and or work. That was decidedly scary and common as the automatic adjusters if installed often did not work.

But then I have never heard of a braking circuit failing first hand so probably unlikely, but I would like to have everything going for me if it did.

Another thing, running 265-75-16 on 35mm 8" wide rims they nicely fit under the guards but I would not want them any further out so curious how +15mm would look as they would be 20mm wider than mine. Given that everything nicely fits with a 35mm offset or the standard 38mm offset there is no practical reason to go with another offset. Often offset is used to clear the strut especially with smaller wheels, but mine are 16" and clear no problems. 17" would have even more clearance of the caliper and strut.

Frankly there is no downside (apart from narrow rim choice) of going for the correct offset so that is the way I went. Sure creeping up a profile gives more ground clearance so tempting, I know I went this way my MT but then stuck to standard size with my AT set as need room to fit snow chains. As frequently mentioned I would be very careful taking advice from many tyre retailers as lot of it is wrong.

Just what I did but if you are happy then all rims look good. I like the black Raptor wheels against the white of my Challenger. But honestly only went after market wheels as factory alloys are rare for sale in Tasmania. No so long after I went this way a set of four factory alloys turned up for $150.00 for the lot. They are my AT set.

[4wd26]

Interesting the comment on improved handling. My reading suggests that negative scrub is done to avoid pulling to one side when a braking circuit is out. Prior to X brake circuits and power steering (any one remember non power assisted steering?) positive offset was used to reduce the effort when cornering, so is the improved handling merely the feeling of lighter steering?

Back in the dim dark days of unassisted front drum brakes cars would pull dramatically to one side depending on which drum brake decided to grab and or work. That was decidedly scary and common as the automatic adjusters if installed often did not work.

But then I have never heard of a braking circuit failing first hand so probably unlikely, but I would like to have everything going for me if it did.

Another thing, running 265-75-16 on 35mm 8" wide rims they nicely fit under the guards but I would not want them any further out so curious how +15mm would look as they would be 20mm wider than mine. Given that everything nicely fits with a 35mm offset or the standard 38mm offset there is no practical reason to go with another offset. Often offset is used to clear the strut especially with smaller wheels, but mine are 16" and clear no problems. 17" would have even more clearance of the caliper and strut.

Frankly there is no downside (apart from narrow rim choice) of going for the correct offset so that is the way I went. Sure creeping up a profile gives more ground clearance so tempting, I know I went this way my MT but then stuck to standard size with my AT set as need room to fit snow chains. As frequently mentioned I would be very careful taking advice from many tyre retailers as lot of it is wrong.

Just what I did but if you are happy then all rims look good. I like the black Raptor wheels against the white of my Challenger. But honestly only went after market wheels as factory alloys are rare for sale in Tasmania. No so long after I went this way a set of four factory alloys turned up for $150.00 for the lot. They are my AT set.

The major reason for a change in offset - widening the stance is when offroading

it increases stability of the vehicle immeasurably, especially when side loads are encountered. A old rule of thumb used to be for every 1" lift/ change in tyre size widen stance (track) by 10mm

if loading up the roof rack (changing COG) you again want as wide a track as possible.

Another side benefit, is that the rim/ tyre combination hits the side of ruts before the body/ flares

now with 265 wide tyres you get the tread right on the edge of the flare- not the bulge in the sidewall and with a now ESC vehicle this is ALL LEGAL, there is NO rubbing or clearance issues with tyres hitting anything in all conditions (compression full lock etc)

some guys will run zero offset with 265 and add garden flares to cover the tyre.

you can fit 285 wide tyres (others have done this) some small modification of the mudguards will be required (dependent on offset)

just depends on what you want from your vehicle, how hard you want to push the boundaries, but stability offroad especially when dual locked and with transfer case gears and a lift etc I find it paramount.

I also run a couple of sets of tyres so that touring, towing, and around town I'm legal, but my offroad set are a set of simex peeds on wide offset rims

now looking to get my onroad set in a +15 offset hence my enquiry into this thread. I like the look of the Walker Evans rims

[02-SR5]

Just sent the quote off.

Lets see how much they are going to cost.