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I don’t know if anyone else has come across this problem, but I do every single time.
The problem:-
The front crank seal has by design and not a fault; has no pre-seating space for the inner lip of seal to seat prior to the outer seal surface coming in contact with the seal housing. This seal therefore can and does tend to pop off the garter spring when you attempt to seat it on the oil pump housing and crank at the same time.
The fix:-
Grab a aluminium can (such as V-drink can but any can is fine) and cut it 50mm x 165mm. Roll it around on 165mm axis allowing it to overlap. Oil your seal or grease or whatever preferred method you use. Place the inner lip of the seal at one end of the rolled can and then place the other end of the can over the crank. You can now slide the seal on and be sure the garter spring has not popped off. After successfully seating the seal, use a pair of pillars and grab at a point where both rolled surfaces meet and gently pull the aluminium can out. Congrats you have just seated what I consider to be a stubborn seal and embarrassing if you just spent all the time to change and then leaks oil everywhere on first start-up after all the work you have done.
Reasoning:-
This IMO makes doing the front crank seal far easier than any method I have used before.
The reason I feel this works well is because you split up the job of seating the inner lip and seating the seal in the oil pump. Conversely cam seals by design do split up the job and rarely pop the garter spring.
Feel free to comment, provide your own method or refine mine.
The problem:-
The front crank seal has by design and not a fault; has no pre-seating space for the inner lip of seal to seat prior to the outer seal surface coming in contact with the seal housing. This seal therefore can and does tend to pop off the garter spring when you attempt to seat it on the oil pump housing and crank at the same time.
The fix:-
Grab a aluminium can (such as V-drink can but any can is fine) and cut it 50mm x 165mm. Roll it around on 165mm axis allowing it to overlap. Oil your seal or grease or whatever preferred method you use. Place the inner lip of the seal at one end of the rolled can and then place the other end of the can over the crank. You can now slide the seal on and be sure the garter spring has not popped off. After successfully seating the seal, use a pair of pillars and grab at a point where both rolled surfaces meet and gently pull the aluminium can out. Congrats you have just seated what I consider to be a stubborn seal and embarrassing if you just spent all the time to change and then leaks oil everywhere on first start-up after all the work you have done.
Reasoning:-
This IMO makes doing the front crank seal far easier than any method I have used before.
The reason I feel this works well is because you split up the job of seating the inner lip and seating the seal in the oil pump. Conversely cam seals by design do split up the job and rarely pop the garter spring.
Feel free to comment, provide your own method or refine mine.
been meaning to make a few how to posts for ages now.
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