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Mechanical Discussion of mechanical matters |
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#1
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A friend of mine has a 2007 build NS Exceed with 240k km on the clock, and weird transmission behaviour.
In addition to sporadic transient misbehaviours since new, more recently the vehicle has developed a more troublesome problem. The dash will display both "D" and "N" at the same time, and the vehicle won't move, or struggles to move (I'm a little unclear on this point - sorry). A transmission specialist has told them the transmission is toast, and needs to be replaced - talk of "swarf" inside the transmission causing intermittent / transient blockages. I can't say that the transmission isn't stuffed, but I can't see how swarf inside the transmission will cause the dash lights to display both "D" and "N" at the same time - my instinct is a switch problem in the cabin, and the transmission ECU is getting confused. There's no talk of flashing "N", or needing to clear error codes, so I don't think that's part of the problem. Surely this forum has many owners with Jatco V5A5A transmissions still going strong well beyond 240k km. Yes, this Paj has done some epic off-road trips (from Adelaide, they've done the Cape and Gibb River Road, amongst other big trips - generally towing a camper trailer) but I don't believe they are pushing its limits. The vehicle appears to be in good condition, it looks like they care for it. Has anybody else had this problem with a Jatco? Can anybody recommend a transmission specialist intimately familiar with the Jatco who might be able to confirm or refute this diagnosis?
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone! Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go.... Scorpro Explorer Box |
#2
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Under warranty we had a problem with the dash lights showing D and R at the same time and the vehicle not moving in any direction.
MM had no idea. Eventually the fault was found. It wasn't the gearbox but something to do with the T bar shifter I think or electrics. The part had to come from Japan. I will contact the dealer on Monday to see if they are able to tell me. BTW. 335,000ks now. |
#3
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MY14 GLX Pajero DID auto with Lift, 265/70 R17 Falken MT01's, Full Bushskinz plates , Scotts Rods 3" TBE, Johnny Tig FMIC, TME ECU remap, Provent, OL Bullbar, Ironman 9500lbs winch, dual batteries, Lockup mate lite, nomad valve body, aeroflow AF72-6000 transmission cooler with 9" fan and radiator cooler bypass, 3.15 reduction gears, traction contol mod (on/off), Uniden 8080S, flappy paddles, Rhino flat rack mounted on ARB rails, 42" Stedi ST3K light bar and custom drawers |
#4
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Talking to a mechanic in our workshop the other day about his Challenger. He mentioned how he had to replace the neutral inhibitor switch on the transmission recently. Trans would sometimes neutralise and not drive.
He said a little research revealed the neutral inhibitor switch was a very common issue in Challenges and Tritons. I think one of my sons has the same issue in his ML. Every now and again it will loose drive. Pull up on side of road. Select park. Select drive and all good again for a few months. Worth a try.
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PCOV Member 1107. Daily driver NX GLX Semi retired NJ 2.8TD Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB. |
#5
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Have a read of this thread first;
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=58757 Things to check; 1. Correct mechanical operation and adjustment of the shift selector control cable, shift interlock cable and inhibit switch. 2. Check the electrical continuity of the inhibit switch in all positions. Apparently there is a steel pin inside the transmission that can come adrift and cause transmission failures, but I seem to recall this was on early years. Not sure when this problem was resolved. OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II. MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 . Last edited by old Jack; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:45 PM. |
#6
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Well there you go! I always thought that switch was built into the shift mechanism in the cabin - live and learn! Thanks OJ.
I would like to think their "transmission specialist" started with adjusting the switch, but it's a simple thing for my friend to check. Beyond that, a replacement switch isn't too expensive, but I can't find anything in the service manual about replacing it. But one step at a time. ![]()
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone! Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go.... Scorpro Explorer Box |
#7
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The switches in the cabin shifter are for the sports shift operation only.
I haven't had a inhibit switch mechanically disconnected, but I would suspect it has several detent positions and each of these can be continuity check as wee as the wiring harness back to the AT ECU. The mechanical set up of the switch should be pretty straight forward, set it up in "P" then check in R, N & D. In each position remove the connecting pin of the cable clevis to the inhibit switch and check the switch is in the correct position and has continuity according to the Service Manual pin outs on the electrical plug. OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II. MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 . Last edited by old Jack; 1 Week Ago at 01:13 PM. |
#8
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Sorry can't help.
Checked with the service adviser I know there. He checked the records and as it was around 2009 he couldn't find it. He said all service records are deleted after 7 years. |
#9
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone! Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go.... Scorpro Explorer Box |
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