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  #1  
Old 26-10-12
big mik big mik is offline
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Default Solar controller

Just got some panels off Evil Bay. They came with a controller on the back.
there are 6 poles on the controller
first two are from the panels
second two go to the battery
third two go to load.

The battery has 12.4V and is charging
But I am getting nothing through the load.

Am I doing something wrong, does the battery need to be fully charged before I can use the load poles Is the controller faulty.

The more I think of it the less you would use this out let, because you would have to run extra wires for a 12 DC connection point from the panels, rather than just running 12 v lights etc off the battery!
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  #2  
Old 26-10-12
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schnitzel schnitzel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big mik View Post
Just got some panels off Evil Bay. They came with a controller on the back.
there are 6 poles on the controller
first two are from the panels
second two go to the battery
third two go to load.

The battery has 12.4V and is charging
But I am getting nothing through the load.

Am I doing something wrong, does the battery need to be fully charged before I can use the load poles Is the controller faulty.

The more I think of it the less you would use this out let, because you would have to run extra wires for a 12 DC connection point from the panels, rather than just running 12 v lights etc off the battery!
I have lots of solar panels and controllers and long ago stopped using the load outlet. I run everything off the battery terminals and just connect the solar panels through the outlets marked for battery.

I run my camper, my motorhome, my fuel trailer and my portable panels this way without problems.

only time i have had problems was when i used to connect load to the outlet on the controller.
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  #3  
Old 26-10-12
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razorback razorback is offline
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Default Solar controler

Hi Big Mik, as far as i know from my solar inverter is that you will only be able to use the " load" terminals is when it gets dark(when there is no charge to the battery). It's supossed to be only for low power like lights to light up your vehicle or campsite or a smal fridge.
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  #4  
Old 26-10-12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big mik View Post
The battery has 12.4V and is charging
I doubt your battery is charging at 12.4V.
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Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #5  
Old 26-10-12
big mik big mik is offline
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Thanks gents, I had a thought it may be operator error

Makes more sense now!
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1988 NF V6 superwagon, 2 Inch suspension lift, 31 inch AT's, AM & UHF radio, twin HID 7inch driving lights, 20 inch LED light bar, Reese rear tow bar, Ally bull bar, Tigerz 11 Roof cage and awning complete with LED's and remote dimmer, LED side marker lights on the sills, 2 rear 10w LED work lights, Rear view camera. Bluetooth radio for hands free phone. 1200Lbs winch
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  #6  
Old 26-10-12
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Lance Lance is offline
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Panel > Controller
Controller > Battery
Battery > lights, fridge, etc.


Beer Time
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Old 26-10-12
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I second to that. I was in the same boat connecting solar panel directly to Agm battery for a charge and getting 12.4-12.5v at the terminals. Thought something was not right as the battery has not received much of the charge if any after almost 10 hours of grilling. I then connected solar panel to input terminals of Waeco Perfect Charge dc08 (8A dc to dc charger) and fed the Agm battery with higher 14.3v out of dc08 output. That worked much better for me. Could be just an issue with my solar panel in particular as solar panel controller "battery out" should be within 14.1-14.4v range, I was told.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
I doubt your battery is charging at 12.4V.

Last edited by securegsm; 26-10-12 at 08:07 PM.
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  #8  
Old 27-10-12
big mik big mik is offline
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The Battery started at under 12V because it had been running lights the last time I used it.
So when I checked it was 12.4V after a short while.
If I leave the multimeter on, depending on sun, I can see an input of upto 13.7V.
Now I have a new question. What voltage would you expect to be comming directly out of the controller?

I have upto 20V which I am guessing the controller throws out max power until it registers a voltage or "load requirement"

Sorry it's all new to me and I don't wantr to damage anything, I just want to know how it works a little better before I buy an invertor.

Thanks guys.
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Old 27-10-12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big mik View Post
The Battery started at under 12V because it had been running lights the last time I used it.
So when I checked it was 12.4V after a short while.
If I leave the multimeter on, depending on sun, I can see an input of upto 13.7V.
Now I have a new question. What voltage would you expect to be comming directly out of the controller?
That sounds better. For a conventional lead-acid battery, the traditional "float voltage" is 2.3V per cell, or 13.8V for a 12V battery. So 13.7V (particularly if the battery is drawing significant current) sounds right.

A solar panel will have a no load "open circuit" voltage (i.e. no current), a short circuit current (bugger all voltage), and maximum power (voltage x current) is somewhere in between - depending on the light. Unfortunately, putting a solar panel directly across a battery rarely results in maximum power coming from the panel, as the voltage across the battery won't be at the maximum power point for the panel. This is why a decent controller is required; to suck maximum possible power from the panel, and put as much of that as possible into the battery.

Depending on the design of the controller, it is possible that it won't regulate the output voltage until there is a load on it; so the 20V is its maximum output at no current, but it should reduce once current flows.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

Scorpro Explorer Box
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  #10  
Old 27-10-12
big mik big mik is offline
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cheers NJ

Now it's all starting to make sense!
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