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  • Vicks
    Member
    • Jul 2010
    • 201
    • Abu Dhabi, UAE

    joining wire ropes

    hi guys,

    I have a set of towing ropes, two 4mtr 10mm wire ropes and one 6mtr 2" wide tow strap. I have only done three, simple tow recoveries till date and no snatching.

    I have a few questions...

    1. I have read the document which shows the correct and in-correct methods of joining snatch straps. Applying the same methods to a wire rope, i have the below two different options.

    Option1: wire ropes joined as recommended, with an object to prevent the two binding together (hammer for illustration purposes only). My observation here is there might be excessive stress at the hooks & the U-bolts when towing.



    Option2 : I feel this one is a better way of joining the two wire ropes. The hooks are of equal dimensions and will apply equal amounts of force on each other while towing, while providing safety in case one of the joined hooks snap. No forces applied on the U-bolts.





    2. How do wire ropes behave while snatching. Yes, i understand that each snatch is different, but lets take a scenario when a 2ton vehicle is bogged in soft sand, axle deep, flat terrain (no incline/decline), sand removed from the front of the wheels. If i were to use the 10mm 4ton rated tow rope to snatch it at a speed of say 20kmph ?

    cheers
    '08 Pajero DID GLS LWB - Sold
    '07 KTM Adv990S

    my ride reports:
    2-up to Jordan & Syria on a KTM 990
    Off-roading in the UAE
    2 up to UAE on a KTM990
    wanna see south India? a South Indian honeymoon ride
    13,000kms to Turkey in our NS - coming soon
  • peanut
    Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 172

    #2
    From a riggers perspective please dont. The WLL of that wire if it was a rated wire would be about 800 kg, factor in the way it is clamped and it would drop down. Shock loading it would be miles above the breaking point.

    Comment

    • Onslow
      Valued Member
      • Aug 2007
      • 595
      • Perth, Western Australia

      #3
      Vicks,

      Please don't use wire cable for a snatch recovery! Wire isn't designed to handle a shock load, and neither are those hooks. They are both rated for a static load only. Furthermore, if anything was to break (which is a very high posibility with this set-up) it could be extremely dangerous to the driver and any onlookers! The only equipment to use is a properly rated Snatch Strap and rated shackles, together with rated recovery points on your vehicle.
      NOW SOLD: NW MY2014 VRX 3.2 Diesel Auto, Rhino Rack Roof Rack, Sandgrabber Floor Mats, Safari Snorkel, Warn XP9.5S Winch, ARB Bull Bar, Bushskinz Underbody Protection, Lovells HD Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Airbags, Off Road Systems Rear Shelf, Boab 40Lt Water Tank, Cooper LT265/65x17 ST-Maxx Tyres, Uniden 7760 UHF Radio, LRA 58LT Long Range Tank, ARB Intensity Spotlights, Redarc BCDC Dual Battery System, Taipan XP 3in Exhaust System, Recaro Seats.

      Comment

      • Fro
        Valued Member
        • Aug 2009
        • 415
        • Nundah, QLD

        #4
        Again, don't do it, ever. If something breaks you have metal hook that is going to be moving through the air with the potential to damage a vehicle or worse, hurt someone.

        Just spend a few dollars and buy a proper snatch strap, maybe two if you need to put some distance between the vehicles because of the terrain or obstacles.
        2007 NS X, SWB, 3.2L Di-D, Automatic. Accessories: iCom UHF, Dual Battery System, Nudge Bar and an Engel for keeping the important stuff cold.

        Comment

        • Stevie-Ray
          Valued Member
          • Jun 2009
          • 3274
          • Peakhurst, Sydney

          #5
          It'd be funny if it wasn't so dangerous...!

          It'd be funny if it wasn't so dangerous, especially the 1st method. When, not if, the hooks breaks, you'll have missiles on wire-cable shooting back at both vehicles, & God knows what or who the claw-hammer would end up embedded in!

          Cheers
          Last edited by Stevie-Ray; 06-08-10, 11:40 PM. Reason: correction
          Steve

          Runner-Paj; '95 NJ SWB 2.5L TD GL J-Top, low kms Project-Paj; '92 NH SWB 3.0L V6 GLS Hardtop Triple-pack, also low kms. Donor Paj; '92 NH SWB 3.0L V6 GLS Hardtop Triple-pack, with some parts & goodies to go onto other GLS.
          "I try to take life one day at a time, but sometimes several days attack me all at once!"

          Comment

          • Vicks
            Member
            • Jul 2010
            • 201
            • Abu Dhabi, UAE

            #6
            Originally posted by peanut View Post
            From a riggers perspective please dont. The WLL of that wire if it was a rated wire would be about 800 kg, factor in the way it is clamped and it would drop down. Shock loading it would be miles above the breaking point.
            Thanks for the numbers peanut.



            Originally posted by Onslow View Post
            Vicks,

            Please don't use wire cable for a snatch recovery! Wire isn't designed to handle a shock load, and neither are those hooks. They are both rated for a static load only. Furthermore, if anything was to break (which is a very high posibility with this set-up) it could be extremely dangerous to the driver and any onlookers! The only equipment to use is a properly rated Snatch Strap and rated shackles, together with rated recovery points on your vehicle.
            Originally posted by Fro View Post
            Again, don't do it, ever. If something breaks you have metal hook that is going to be moving through the air with the potential to damage a vehicle or worse, hurt someone.

            Just spend a few dollars and buy a proper snatch strap, maybe two if you need to put some distance between the vehicles because of the terrain or obstacles.
            OK guys, i got the message loud and clear. No snatching with wire ropes.

            So, is the option2 i mentioned above OK for towing ? I say towing, not snatching, in case i need to have an extended towing rope ?



            Originally posted by Stevie-Ray View Post
            It'd be funny if it wasn't so dangerous, especially the 1st method. When, not if, the hooks breaks, you'll have missiles on wire-cable shooting back at both vehicles, & God knows what or who the claw-hammer would end up embedded in!

            Cheers
            Hi stevie,

            The claw hammer is for "illustration purposes only" as i mentioned in the original post. Hope that clarifies.


            Thanks for all the inputs guys. Now time to go get a set of dedicated "snatch" straps as all i have is the tow rope (wire and strap) at the moment.
            '08 Pajero DID GLS LWB - Sold
            '07 KTM Adv990S

            my ride reports:
            2-up to Jordan & Syria on a KTM 990
            Off-roading in the UAE
            2 up to UAE on a KTM990
            wanna see south India? a South Indian honeymoon ride
            13,000kms to Turkey in our NS - coming soon

            Comment

            • rebelone607
              Valued Member
              • Dec 2009
              • 756
              • Urunga NSW

              #7
              See little or no problem connecting the ropes as shown in option 2 ie. hook to hook or hook to eye as that is basically how you would attach a winch or crane cable to a lifting sling. Never hook the "hook" around the cable as in option 1 as that will put a permanant kink in the cable dramatically weakaning them. There have been many times in my carer as a rescue officer where we have had to join cable to cable to obtain the reach we needed during winching operations. You will notice that I said winchining operations as it would have to be desperado stuff to consider using cable in a snatching or towing operation, the risk of shock loading is too great. Having said that I have had one occasion where we had to retrieve a vehicle bogged on a beach with a rising king tide, the nearest we could get to it was nearly 100 meters so we just had to use the one 50mtr x 12mm f.s.w.r. we had which was then connected to our tow strap connected to the snatch strap, this built a dynamic component into what was otherwise a static system. As many heavy potato sacks and jackets etc. as we could lay our hands on were placed at intervals along and over the cable, fortunately the recovery was successful and incident free. I must stress that this operation was undertaken by rescue personel with an enormous amount of experiance in roping and winching operations.
              Merv
              Merv. 2011 Dmax LSU auto Auto. Canopy and tow pack, Al. bull bar and winch, cargo drawers, dual battery, canopy racks with support bars, tub liner, in dash nav system, t.p.m.s. Tough dog 45mm lift and upgrade, uhf, Long Ranger fuel tank, MAL Powerchip
              Other toys:19' Jayco Starcraft o/b caravan, 4.75 mtr Quintrex Bay Hunter boat. 3.7 mtr tinny

              I plan on living forever - so far so good

              Comment

              • mrbitchi
                Valued Member
                • Jun 2007
                • 3577
                • Brisbane

                #8
                I'd only use method 2 for a straight pull scenario, not for towing as in towing a vehicle down the road for a distance, as this could place shock loads on the rig that's it's not designed for as vehicles speed up and slow down..
                Cheers, John.
                LC200 V8 goodness

                MY12 LC200 GXL 4.5Lt V8 twin turbo, GVM upgrade, ARB bar, Warn winch, Outback Acc rear bar and dual carrier, TJM sidesteps, Bushskinz, Long Ranger 180Lt tank, Black Widow drawers, cargo barrier, Polaris Awning, +++
                Ex - NM auto, 2"Kings, Bilsteins, Buckshots, Wildcat headers, 2.75" Mandrel bent exhaust, Injected LPG, Smartbar, Scraper bar, Bushskinz, Custom steps, Dual Batteries, Breathers, Black Widow drawers, Polaris Awning.

                Comment

                • Ballfyboy
                  Valued Member
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 594
                  • Brisbane

                  #9
                  I would just use one hook and hook it into the loop on the second cable leaving one hook to hang down doing nothing. The reason for this is that when under load the system is in a straight line. This will be the strongest and is how most things are engineered to work. It does not take much of a twisting/torqueing action to add huge stresses to systems.

                  Good to see you have taken the snatching comments on board. The reason for the 'hammer' to be placed between the snatchstraps is that they will compress and bite together and you will forever have one strap from that time on. Cable will not do this. Also your little bulldog clamps will be the weakest link I would think.
                  NX Pajero with a ARB Frontier LR tank and some semi-big ideas.

                  Comment

                  • Calspec
                    Valued Member
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 427
                    • SA

                    #10
                    I would also strongly reccommend the use of a thimble and a second bulldog clamp in each of those hook attachments.
                    01 NM Exceed 3.5l Auto, SVI LPG, Pacemakers, Alloy Bar, IPF lights, GME TX3440, OME/King Suspension, 2" Lift, Toyo OCII 75's, 2500Kg Tow Hitch, Milford Cargo Barrier, ARB Fridge, ABR Dual Battery isolator, Rear storage drawers, Hema Navigator 7, JVC 7" In dash DVD, TJM Compressor, 2.5T Hand winch and all the bits that go with it, and a 17' Jayco Westport.

                    Comment

                    • NTPaj
                      Member
                      • Apr 2009
                      • 64
                      • Adelaide

                      #11
                      Calspec,

                      You took the words right out of my mouth. Thimble is required and min 2 Wire rope grips.

                      The wire looks like 6mm, if Fibre Core SWL is around 340kg (from memory).
                      8mm Fibre Core has a 550kg SWL
                      8mm Steel Core has a 780kg SWL.

                      All have a 5 times WLL safety factor.

                      Woody

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