Newbie to Pajero seeks advice.

[Traveller43]

I have been a 4WD owner for 30 years but only recently took possession of my first Pajero. It's a beautiful 3.2L Diesel MY11 RX and I am delighted already with it's power, comfort, economy and off-road ability having done some day and weekend trips on some sand and gravel around Perth.

Previously I have owned a Daihatsu F20, series 3 LWB Landy, Ford Raider and then the Holden Jackaroo I just traded on the Paj but apart from adding roo bars I really didn't spend anything on mods. The Jackaroo was my first diesel and now I will never go back.

I have about $10,000 to spend on after market accessories and will be getting an alloy bar, UHF, snorkel, compressor, roof rack, awning and deep cycle battery installed soon.

The things I am considering but am unsure about are a lift kit, any other suspension mods, a power chip and bash plates. I'm heading from Perth to Lake Eyre and Flinders ranges in October and will be doing 5 weeks along the Gibb River Road to Litchfield and Kakadu national parks next year.

We tow a camper trailer weighing about 1000kg loaded with electric breaks.

I'd appreciate any suggestions about the merits of going the extra mile and doing the lift, suspension, power chip and bash plates and recommended suppliers/installers.

[Thomo238]

Heh Traveller

I have a fully kitted out RX and if you want to see what you can do to a Paj give me a call anytime 0409 290 752
Thommo

[markus]

Tyres should be up high on the list, especially if you're doing serious offroad/remote touring work. Highly recommend the suspension lift, HD rear springs for towing the camper..

My 2c (perhaps should be 10c now) worth

Mark

[achjimmy]

Welcome to the forum

I can highly recommend a lift and bash plates, more so the bash plates if you don't get a lift. I would rate these above the chip personally. I would put the intercooler/ sump plate on a Pajero even if it was a shopping trolley.

I think you will need front springs once you put a bar and dual battery in. I found the Pajero " loosened up" very quickly in the front, and that was without a bar or dual battery.

[FamilyMan]

Don't put more than 100kg in the back and take it off the bitumen without doing an upgrade of the rear springs. Do this experiment. Find the rear bump stops just inside the back wheels. Feel the space between the rubber suspension stopper and the flat on the body just above it. Depending on your fingers you should be able to get them in the space - its about 20mm give or take.
Now get an adult friend to open the back door and either stand on the towbar or sit with their full weight in the back of the back compartment. Now feel the suspension stop gap you felt before. If your friend is around 100kg and you feel the drivers side the gap will most likely have closed completely.
Now imagine driving a pajero with >100kg in the back on corrugations. Every shock to the wheels caused by a bump is now transmitted straight to the body. There is no damping by springs or shockies as there is no travel left. Do that for 300km on corrugations and you will fatigue the welds surrounding the rear wheel arches. They will give way and eventually the weakening will spread to the entire rear of the body with panel cracks and broken welds.
This kind of failure is not readily repairable and is not covered by the warranty as it is expected behaviour.

Please report back here with your findings of the spring compression closing the gap. It was true in my MY09 NT and was still the case for vehicles delivered 6 months ago.

[pabz]

Hi traveller, welcome its alwayz nice to see another perth guy here...
Mate first on my list was the Sahara colour coded roo bar and lightforce spotties and the change from the average low beam Gloabes to HID's, not sure if yours has them in or not.. next would be tyres and a set of Kierans bushSkinz bash plates( a must if your not going to raise it straight away).. 2 way radio, dual battery kit( i got the red arc one that charges aswell not sure the model number) and went for the TJM tray cause its seperate from the main one which allows a bigger spare battery.. Suspension if ya want the extra height.. Thats my next job Ohh and a good air compressor.. BTW this week supercheap have the rydge ryder 9500lb winches on special for 50% off.. $350 which is hell cheap and if you only use it twice a year its paid for itself

[Aussie_Dan]

Congrats on the purchase Traveller!
With regard to the bash plates and suspension, you should make contact with Kieron @ Bushskinz as Pabz has suggested.
With dual batteries, bullbar and heavy bash plates, your Diesel Paj will need a spring upgrade to stop the front end sagging and HD springs will certiainly help keep the rear end from squatting and destroying rear tyres when under load (towing your camper). As your car is only new, you could probably leave the original shocks and struts in place and just replace the springs. Kieron will be the man to talk to regarding this stuff anyway.
Cheers, Dan.

[AJC]

With the new suspension I’d add Polyairbags to the rear for towing at a minimum. The IRS rear causes some squat in the rear and wears the inside or the rear tyres quickly - Polys keep it nice and level and are adjustable for laden / unladen.

You could do your trip with that mod, or you could add a lift.

Most popular is Lovell HD 2" at front (due to diesel engine plus bar, dual batt and bash plates) and SD 2" at rear (gives a reasonable unladen ride and the Polys are used for when loaded and towing). Bilstein or Lovells Gas Legend II shocks are popular with that set up.

You could hold off for a fair while with just the Polys if you don't really need the lift and wear out your factory springs / shocks and then replace them after 50 - 100 kms. The Polys can be transferred from standard height to lifted springs - you just need to source a 2" rubber spacer from PolAir when you do. Another option could be add the lift springs and Polys now, discard your new factory springs but keep the factory shocks til they wear out. Kieron at Bushskinz can do your suspension for about the best price supplied and offers good advice and price to forum members (Pearcie on the forum) or http://www.bushskinz4x4.com.au/

He also supplies i'cooler + sump guards (must) and transfer / transmission + sidestep sliders + rear bumper protection bar (latter 3 are optional - depends on what you have).

Ultimate 4wd in Perth can do a steel dual rear carrier bar, as can Opp Lock – exxy though...cheaper to carry a second spare on the roof racks. Probably a good installer to discuss things like snorkels etc with as well. http://www.ultimate4wdequipment.com.au/

Dual batts – I used a redarc isolator and an ARB tray (as it also replaces the standard plastic Mits tray which can break – mine did) but downside of the ARB tray is it takes a smaller deep cycle than the Piranaha tray. Depends on how many days you’ll think you’ll need run fridge without a drive to recharge it.

Rack - you can go to the expense of removing the factory rails and adding a full ARB type rack. I went with the standard rails, 3 x rhino sxb sports cross bars and a medium rhino rack flat mesh platform (in hindsight I should have got large). That keeps the rack lower for car parks etc than the cage type racks …save you around 120mm…important if you go for a lift. http://www.rhinorack.com.au/AccSubCa...-Racks_74.aspx
and http://www.rhinorack.com.au/Vehicle_...1075_4010.aspx

As you're in Perth, speak to Chipit about a chip or diesel gas http://www.chipit.com.au/ They reckon their product is superior and cheaper.

Other things you might want to consider are:
- a long range tank (or if you go for d-gas, a large gas tank to supplement the existing 90 ltr tank and I assume the 2 x jerry’s on the camper);
- piranaha diff breathers (definitely) and trans / transfer breathers (maybe – depends on how deep a creek you expect to cross)
- cargo barrier – a mate found caddy storage http://www.caddystorage.com.au/ who I recall are cheaper fitted than most and might use the grab handle bolts rather than needing to drill special bolts like my Mits branded Milford barrier.
- Home made cargo shelves / draw / fridge slide (see the forum) or someone like ORS draws or caddy storage
- F or F&R airlockers (depends if you have a Mits rear locker) and if you are serious about off road
- Winch (or hand winch)
- Driving lights (I assume you missed them)
- Decent all terrain rubber in light truck, not passenger spec

Note, if you load up the rear with LR tank and draws /fridge in all the time (as unladen ie. without gear), then go for HD 2" rear. Ypou could still add Polys to vary between unladen and laden + towing.

Hope that helps. Happy travels and enjoy kitting it out.

[Traveller43]

Tyres should be up high on the list, especially if you're doing serious offroad/remote touring work. Highly recommend the suspension lift, HD rear springs for towing the camper..

My 2c (perhaps should be 10c now) worth

Mark

Thanks Mark

I had forgotten to add new rubber. I'm considering between BFG A/T KO or MT KM2 (although I can only see the A/T in 18" diameter) and the Mickey Thompson ATZ 5 rib or MTZ, although the MTZ look very aggressive and would they be too noisy on road?

Then there is the issue of what will fit in the spare wheel carrier. I have the wheel lift kit installed but since I changed the tow hitch from Treg to Oz Hitch (highly recommended by the way: clears the door easily without the lift kit and much easier to seat and secure than the Treg)

Half the fun of up-speccing is the research and forum thread investigation.

Cheers, John

[Traveller43]

Wow! What a response

I hardly expected the response I have received in such a short time. Thanks to everyone who has chipped in so far. Some great information and a lot of good directions I have been pointed to. I'll definitely be in touch with Kieron for a start.

A particular thank you to AJC for the comprehensive response and links.

Note to self: Add following items to current list.
1. Winch (on special)
2. At least rear diff locker
3. Diff breathers
4. Long range tank
5. New rubber
6. Cargo barier
7. Increase budget

The war ministry will be SOOOOO pleased I joined the forum.

No doubt there will be further questions down the track.

Happy trails, John

[psproule]

Just to add to your woe - After the fridge and the suspension lift the next best mod is a long range tank in my humble opinion. 1400km touring range is awesome.

[achjimmy]

Just to add to your woe - After the fridge and the suspension lift the next best mod is a long range tank in my humble opinion. 1400km touring range is awesome.

Another vote for the auxiliary tank. They also make a excellent rear bumper protector as well

[Paj People 2009]

Hi John,

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your Paj purchase.

If you are going to tow, don't forget to get the lift kit. This gives you more clearance for your van/trailer hitch. The central back wheel is a major flaw with these Pajs. It's such a great car otherwise!

We tow a 2500kg Jayco van with electric breakaway brakes and a 2 tonne boat, with hydraulic breakaway breaks. The Paj shines towing both of these. We have ours chipped with a DP Chip and this gives much better power, especially in the low rev range. The accelaration and fuel economy is excellent now as well.

We have only done mountain tracks and sand driving, but the vehicle has been very capable and pleasing to control. The other guys on here will know heaps about the hard core off road stuff.

We are going to add a snorkel, rear drawer system and air springs to ours in the near future, to aid in towing. Would like a long range tank too. One thing at a time, as they say!

Hope you enjoy your Paj. All the best.

Cheers,
Sally

[Traveller43]

Thanks again for all the great advice and information.

I am going to order the Bush Skinz and Lovell/Billstein suspension upgrade from Kieron. I will aslo do the Bull Bar. (thinking ECB alloy at this stage) and long range fuel tank.

Can anyone suggest a good place to go in Perth for the tank? I have recycled the drawer set I had in the Jackaroo into the Pajero and have the second battery, UHF and air compressor from the Jackaroo to install.

Along with a recommendation for the fuel tank can anyone suggest a recommended installer for the suspension, radio, compressor, bull bar, etc. who will do a good job at a fair price given I won't be buying the kit from them?

[achjimmy]

Thanks again for all the great advice and information.

I am going to order the Bush Skinz and Lovell/Billstein suspension upgrade from Kieron. I will aslo do the Bull Bar. (thinking ECB alloy at this stage) and long range fuel tank.

Can anyone suggest a good place to go in Perth for the tank? I have recycled the drawer set I had in the Jackaroo into the Pajero and have the second battery, UHF and air compressor from the Jackaroo to install.

Along with a recommendation for the fuel tank can anyone suggest a recommended installer for the suspension, radio, compressor, bull bar, etc. who will do a good job at a fair price given I won't be buying the kit from them?

I don't know for Perth but call Paul at LRA (long range automotive) about who does his tanks. I didn't know at the time and thought the LRA tanks and long ranger tanks were pretty much the same product. But after having installed the LRA tank and seen installs of the long ranger personally I think the LRA is a much better value product for the Pajero. It installs with proper brackets to the chasis rails and rear seat mounts. The long ranger is drilled and located of the rear seat well (not chasis rail) and also requires more of the interior disassembled for installation, but people with the long ranger appear very happy with the product.