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  #11  
Old 14-05-19
benckj benckj is offline
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In most vehicles its fine to leave 1/2 litre over full. In fact with some 4wd and sports cars its now recommended to do so if the sump in not sufficiently baffled. This is more the case with older or early 90's cars.

The problem with overfilling is the possibility of crank running through an oil bath and causing foaming issue which can lead to washing bores dry. Once again this was more of a problem with the older cars, lack of baffles and using mineral oil. Modern semi & synthetic oils are less prone to suffer damage.
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  #12  
Old 14-05-19
erad erad is offline
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Well, I did the job. There was about 1 litre of oil excess and I sucked it out through the dipstick tube. What a job! The sucker I had only had probably 100 mL capacity, and by the time a bit of air leaked past the piston, I reckon I was removing about 50 mL per go, but it got done. In retrospect, it would have been better, quicker and cleaner if I had warmed the oil up first. Doh!

Reminds me of my father in his early days of owning a car. It was a 1926 Chev tourer, and naturally used lots of oil. One day he was talking to the mechanic about topping up the oil all the time and what a pill of a job it was. It turned out that he was pouring the oil down the dipstick tube. When the mechanic pointed out the filler cap in the rocker cover, he apparently said that he had looked at doing it that way, but every time they opened the cap there was lots of smoke, and they thought it may all catch fire if they put some oil down there as well... Apparently a few years later, the mechanic asked him if he had ever checked the gearbox oil. "No - isn't it the same oil as used in the engine?" My father was NOT mechanically minded at all. How his son became senior mechanical engineer in the Snowy was a mystery.

Then having got myself in a real mess, I decided to change the fuel filters. I had the OEM filter on for about 20000 km and a 30 micron Donaldson filter mounted as a pre-filter which had done about 40000 km. When I cut both of them open to see how they were, there was only a faint blackening of the OEM filter, but the Donaldson was totally black. I guess it was doing its job, because there was vitrually no black goo in the OEM filter. I have now fitted a 3 micron filter (still as a pre-filter as recommended by Donaldson). I was going to change them around, but decided for now to leave it and see how it performs, particularly if it chokes the fuel flow (I don't envisage any problems).

Last edited by erad; 14-05-19 at 02:49 PM.
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  #13  
Old 14-05-19
benckj benckj is offline
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Good job. Was going to suggest warming engine first but thought you would figure out if oil was too thick to suck out. At least it was clean!
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  #14  
Old 14-05-19
DAUMULLER DAUMULLER is offline
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Default Excessive oil

Hi
Another option might be to crack one of the oil cooler fittings (hot/warm oil) and let it run out for a while and then re-tighten.
Dan
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  #15  
Old 14-05-19
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Of course if you were to warm the oil by starting to car you’d be risking what you are trying to avoid.
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  #16  
Old 15-05-19
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Thanks for the replies. What I did took ages to do, but at least I didn't have to get under and dismantle the bash plate to get to the sump plug. The plug replacement with a drain tap fitted seems to be a great idea....

We took the car for a bit of a trip over the weekend. Really gnarly track, lots of 2nd and 3rd gear work, mostly high range (some minor low range stuff, but not too much). The overall fuel consumption for the trip was 8.8 l/100 km. Previously, on a trip such as this I would have expected down in the low 8.3 area. Maybe the extra oil was having an effect? I'll have to wait for a few weeks before I get to use the car again. I switched the oil from 15W-40 to 10W-40, and I was hoping for slightly better consumption. Time will tell...

Last edited by erad; 15-05-19 at 02:22 AM.
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  #17  
Old 15-05-19
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That seems like very good fuel economy to me, especially with the low gear and occasional low range work.
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  #18  
Old 19-05-19
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Last week, I had to go to Canberra for the day, and filled up with fuel there (much cheaper than at home). Overall consumption for 650 km (with the extra 1 L of oil in the sump), including 350 km of rough stuff was 8.3 L/1100 km. The dashboard readout on the way home was around 7.8 L/100 km, so maybe the extra oil was causing some more drag in the engine. The dash readout of consumption is very close to what I actually get when I fill up, so maybe there has been an improvement. I have gone to 10W-40 oil instead of 15W-40 which I used over summer. I think that makes a difference, but the comment above was about overfilling the sump, rather than oil viscosity.
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  #19  
Old 19-05-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erad View Post
I switched the oil from 15W-40 to 10W-40, and I was hoping for slightly better consumption. Time will tell...
The first number is the cold viscosity, relevant during start-up (how quickly oil pumps to where it's needed). The second number is the warm viscosity, which is the one that will have most impact on economy during normal running.

During normal running, you've changed from a 40 weight oil to a 40 weight oil.
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  #20  
Old 20-05-19
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Yes NJ - I think you're right with that. The problem here is that in winter, it is COLD. Damn - I am sure it is getting colder! I reckon there would be at least a 40 Deg C difference in oil temp between summer and winter, and therefore the oil viscosity at operating temperature in winter will be slightly higher for the 15W-40 oil. Probably not that much difference, but I will use the 10W-40 through this winter and then replace it with 15W-40 for summer because I will most likely be towing my caravan in both seasons for probably 40% of the time. I don't like the idea of 10W-40 for a really hot day, towing my caravan.
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