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  #11  
Old 17-05-19
erad erad is offline
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As the vehicle runs on LPG, the gas converter draws coolant from the system as well, so that tends to cool things down even more than on petrol. This is minor though. As above, it seems as if your thermostat is not hot enough. Not sure about Toyota, but Mitsubishi petrol engines thermostats start to open at 76.5 Deg C and are fully open at 90 Deg C. The GDI petrol engines are even higher - 82 - 95 Deg C.
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  #12  
Old 17-05-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Thanks for the replies all. I'm currently away, but will reply better when I get home and have computer to read through and type properly
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  #13  
Old 18-05-19
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Put a new thermostat in
Put a new rad cap on
Make sure coolant is full, bled properly and at the right concentration


If still have problem after doing all that report back and we can go further
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  #14  
Old 27-06-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Sorry for slow response everyone. Been flat out.


I swapped thermostat when I originally had it out-very slight improvement but problem not fixed. I haven't changed cap but in all honesty I can only see radiator cap causing overheating rather than underheating. Cooling system all bled, but once again I've only ever had overheating issues in the past from these issues-they have never caused my cooling system to work better than intended.



I thought the radiator cover to keep the heat in was weird, as they advertised it to keep the energy in the engine-there is a reason we need the radiator and that is to cool things down. But, I thought the logic was very strong for my issue considering that mine all started with new radiator (still can't understand why thermostat isn't fixing the issue-might be because thermostat is on the engine outlet to the radiator rather than on the inlet. Tempted to put second thermostat in the top).



The solution was actually very simple-unbolt radiator and tilt it back, cut up an old sheet to cover 1/3 of the radiator, put that over the little knobs that that the hold down bracket sits over, bolt radiator back up and the rag is now held in place covering 1/3 from the top of the radiator.


Driving along it now sits at where it should-gauge at about halfway except for the coldest mornings on faster runs going slight downhill so the engine isn't working, it sits not far below where it should in those circumstances, not right down at cold like it was before. Got warm air coming out of the heater, so I'm a lot happier on those cold mornings too.


One interesting thing-this is the first full tank of LPG since making the change. After new multivalve put in I was getting about 310km/tank LPG (not happy, need to fix the pick up, but different story). I'm now at around 380km on this tank of fuel and still going, but I'll need to fill up tonight regardless (60km drive each way for work). That says I'm getting at least 20% better economy-I'm assuming its just richening it up due to being so cold
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  #15  
Old 27-06-19
erad erad is offline
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Try a new thermostat - one which opens at the specified temperature. They START to open at 82 Deg C, and may then be FULLY OPEN at XX Deg C. My guess is that your thermostat is opening too soon, probably because it is rated too cold, or not closing properly.

For example, my Max Elery W/S manual states for the MPI (GCC engine whatever that is), the thermostat starts to open at 76.5 Deg C +/- 2 Deg C, and is fully open at 90 Deg C. The other MPI engines open at 82 Deg C and are fully open at 95 Deg C. The diesel engines start at 76.5 Deg C and are fully open at 90 Deg C.

Also, be aware that the temperature gauge is not linear ie the mid point of the scale is about 90 Deg C, but the red line is probably at 115 Deg C, so half of the scale is only 25 Deg C.
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  #16  
Old 28-06-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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I've got different thermostat in it than original, but still doing the same thing. I was a little concerned that covering up part of the radiator might cause overheating when going up hills etc, seeing that I'm basically trying to overtake the thermostat that is not doing what its supposed to. I've seen no overheating and temp gauge stays in the middle where normal operating temp is in this car.



That shows me that the thermostat is doing its job well now, but not when the radiator is not partly blocked. Meaning some water has to be getting past like you say, but why? Old thermostat was rated at 82deg, and started to open just a smidge at 75deg. I would be surprised if 2 thermostats are showing the same issue at opening too early (but a lot crazier things have happened), and like you mentioned about temp gauge its only 7deg below operating temp that it starts to open, not 20ish.


At the moment I'm happy enough with my bodgy fix as its holding temperature well. I need to balance where I put my energy. Interested to see how it goes once it starts warming up
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  #17  
Old 28-06-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco stu View Post
I thought the radiator cover to keep the heat in was weird, as they advertised it to keep the energy in the engine-there is a reason we need the radiator and that is to cool things down.
That was very much tongue in cheek. Have a look at the rest of the Kalecoauto product line.

Have you looked at your LPG system? Is it possible that it has a coolant line to the converter that is flowing coolant continuously? Perhaps with your old buggered radiator the converter flow wasn't enough to make a difference, but it is now?
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  #18  
Old 28-06-19
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The coolant for the gas converter normally comes off the heater tappings ie after the thermostat. Normal arrangement is Tee pieces in the heater hose and the converter runs parallel to the heater. So the thermostat should still control all of the elements downstream from it. I live in an area much colder than where Stu lives, and I had an NL running on gas, but never had this problem. Even now, I have a diesel NW, and in very cold conditions (well below zero), the engine still comfortably gets to operating temperature. It takes a lot longer to get there, but it does get to temperature and hold it. I would expect that the same should apply to the NL in Wollongong.

Interesting story- a friend has a Peugot 404 and we were at Guthega. Very cold overnight, no antifreeze, so he drained the radiator and the heater as well (heater had its own drain). In the morning, we filled the radiator with warm water from the ski lodge. Got it all filled including the heater. Left it idling until it all came up to temperature. He drove off. Downhill for about 20 km or so. No throttle needed, Come to an uphill section, the engine boiled. Check radiator - it was frozen solid, even though we had thoroughly warmed the car up before we left. The downhill run meant that the engine was not working at all, the thermostat closed, and the cold air through the radiator overcame what little water was flowing through the radiator. We had to wait for about 20 minutes before the radiator started to warm up again headed off up the hill and no further problems after that.

Last edited by erad; 28-06-19 at 09:40 PM.
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  #19  
Old 29-06-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Quote:
That was very much tongue in cheek. Have a look at the rest of the Kalecoauto product line.
I had a sight feeling it might have been satire, but the description sounded so genuine. I had a look now-funny stuff!

Just to note, this is on a 98 camry. Pajero is still in pieces getting new engine finished off. The thermostat on this is on the output to the radiator, so all hoses to heater, lpg converter etc are before thermostat

That's classic story Erad!

I'll be throwing new air filter and plugs in it tomorrow. Hopefully economy improves further
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  #20  
Old 30-06-19
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The coolant flow through the converter is to stop the converter icing up through evaporative cooling of the LPG, as it converts from liquid to gas.

The coolant is used to add heat to the LPG, not remove it i.e. the converter is cooling the coolant.

I understand that it may appear to be on the "downstream" side of the thermostat, but is there a circulating path within the engine independent of the thermostat?



In the above system, the water pump is pumping water through the engine, and the heater. Add the cooling effect of the LPG converter, and perhaps that circulation is sufficient to dissipate all the heat being generated, without needing the radiator?

Is your Camry dual fuel? If so, does it do the same on petrol?
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