loss of power on steepish incline

[Champagne Heidz]

HI,
I am loving my recently acquired Champagne Pajero, it suits my lifestyle so much: farm, kid, pets, queening round town, etc. I have just taken it on my first longish drive and ended up stranded in a small town, where unfortunately noone could identify or fix my problem. As I got up towards Tenterfield the wagon lost power on two separate uphill occasions. It sat on 60km/hr for a little bit regardless of what my right foot was doing. Then came good as the slope levelled. Overall the vehicle sounds louder than normal and feels less sporty. I think the vehicle should have zoomed up the hills it malfunctioned on, they were not the steepest bits.

So far the fuel filter has been replaced, injector cleaner added, forced DPF burn and EGR valve checked and the barometric sensor replaced, but it is still sluggish and had the uphill loss of power one more time. Apparently it needed a computer upgrade too, as previous owners didn't go to a dealer for their servicing. The problem is that now I have returned it to a Mitsubishi dealer with a computer, no error codes are coming up. So folks are scratching their heads. I have been reading this forum for ideas so thank you very much.

It seems these items may be worth investigating:

SCV Suction Control Valve (gasket has hole for oil feed, needs to be aligned correctly, afterwards needs an injector relearn)
additional ideas: install pressure limiter valve?
check in-tank fuel filter?
check and clean transmission filter?
Anything to add please?
Cheers, Heidi

2007 Pajero Exceed NS 3.2L CDi LWB Auto

[craka]

Your best off getting your own OBDII scanning tool to give you an idea of what is going on, if you have a smart phone cheapest option is by purchasing a OBDII bluetooth dongle and purchase the app torque pro. You could obtain those for around 50buck combined.
It's not replacement for a MUTIII but still allows you to read codes and also clear certain ones, admittidly there are some things that required the MUTIII to clear.

From what your describing, if it's running fine on a flat and is having issue coming to inclines, I'd be checking the system around the turbo. Starting with checking the vacuum hoses for leakes on wastegate, MAP sensor etc with a vacuum pump.

It may or may not be your problem but there is a bit of a common issue with the small piece of vacuum hose that run into the MAP port on the engine block which can get a small split it in it.

You can find the service manual here http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...7/index_M1.htm

Look under intake and exhaust on vehicle servicing.

[Champagne Heidz]

thanks for having a crack craka!

reading through the service receipts with new eyes and I am feeling a bit queezy! I saw some things in there after we bought it but assumed they had been fixed. When you assume you make an......

2013 report of transmission not shifting properly, unable to fault, checked transmission oil relearned valve reset
2013 report on lack of power replaced EGR valve, manifold and gaskets
report on tappets adjusted tappets

2014 code 61 master cylinder pressure sensor system
report on hunting when idling. reset idle. did not adjust tappets

2015 timing chain tensioner replacement, tube fuel injection
2016 investigate poor performance engine diagnostic & DPF force burn/ clean replace fuel filter
particularly this last item worries me as it is not a big bill so I think maybe the issue wasn't resolved.


Also we are third owners, and second owner had it less than two years before selling it......

[Seigried]

Could it be a restricted air intake due to carbon build up? i.e not enough air=power loss? or dirty Map and Maf sensors??

[Champagne Heidz]

thanks, I read elsewhere here that on the NS the MAP sensor hose joins in to the lower part of the intake manifold and gets clogged. Has anyone done the suggested change to an NT intake manifold? Apparently it joins into the upper part instead.
MAP definitely on my list of suggestions.
According to receipts the last tappet adjustment was 90 000km ago. This would maybe be overdue. Could it cause sporadic loss of power as well as overall poor performance?

[Axis]

thanks, I read elsewhere here that on the NS the MAP sensor hose joins in to the lower part of the intake manifold and gets clogged. Has anyone done the suggested change to an NT intake manifold? Apparently it joins into the upper part instead.
MAP definitely on my list of suggestions.
According to receipts the last tappet adjustment was 90 000km ago. This would maybe be overdue. Could it cause sporadic loss of power as well as overall poor performance?

Hi Heidz,

I still have the NS manifold - no need to swap to the NT one if the manifold is cleaned and you block the EGR. It is pretty easy to get an idea of how much carbon build up there is by removing the EGR valve which is a relatively simple job. If you look at the below like the last 2 pics are the upper manifold and EGR Valve on our NS at 170k kms.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/album.php?albumid=620

Not many reports of in tank filter issues on here. It would be worth changing the SCV if it hasn't been changed (although this usually presents as flat spots and surging).

I also agree on the MAF sensor - 2 screw to remove and about $25 for a can of MAF cleaner.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Cheers,
James

[Champagne Heidz]

Thanks Axis,
I think today on the school run it maybe surged. Is a surge when you are on a flat bit of road and the speed is kind of faster than what you expect from the amount of acceleration you are applying, and if you take your foot off altogether it stays on 100km/hr just for a moment or two too long? Or am I just watching too hard now??
Hubby has had a few wines and a few grumbles, "get rid of it"...no no no I'm in the Pajero club now, I can't go back!
I really appreciate your thoughts, thanks!

[David_SVK]

what was the outcome

Hey @Champagne Heidz, I was wondering if you found out what was the issue?
Experiencing the same here, and once above 80kmh, uphil, she just doesnt want to keep the speed or accelerate.- with only me in the car.

Thanks for your answer in advance.

[nj swb]

Hi David,

Champagne Heidz hasn't logged in for over 12 months, so you could be waiting a while for an answer. While we're waiting, can you provide a little more information?

This is the NS forum - is that what you have? Petrol / diesel, manual or auto? Can you provide slightly more detail about what you were doing / where you were going when you noticed this lack of power?

[Drummond]

2011 Pajero 220,000 km losing power uphill and even cuts out sometimes. Had battery replaced, and new fuel filter, some water found in fuel filter cleaned out – still left with the same issue. Mechanic says nothing showing on computer. Wife wants to get rid of it and get a Toyota. I would like to keep it if we can. Any ideas?

[BruceandBobbi]

2011 Pajero 220,000 km losing power uphill and even cuts out sometimes. Had battery replaced, and new fuel filter, some water found in fuel filter cleaned out – still left with the same issue. Mechanic says nothing showing on computer. Wife wants to get rid of it and get a Toyota. I would like to keep it if we can. Any ideas?

Check the in tank filter.

[erad]

I agree about checking the in-tank filter, but first check the hoses around the main fuel filter. You may have a slight split in one, which will let air get sucked in, thereby stuffing up the fuel pressures, and maybe even your fuel pump. It crtainly sounds as if you are being starved for fuel on uphill runs.

[spot01]

I agree about checking the in-tank filter, but first check the hoses around the main fuel filter. You may have a slight split in one, which will let air get sucked in, thereby stuffing up the fuel pressures, and maybe even your fuel pump. It crtainly sounds as if you are being starved for fuel on uphill runs.

Also try the hand pump after the car has sat overnight & before turning the key, to see if you can pump it very much, which may indicate a air leak in the hoses, etc.

[solent]

Just joined and saw this problem of loss of power going uphill. I had the same problem. The small pipe on the inlet manifold that connects a rubber hose to the MAP sensor was partially blocked.
The MAP sensor could not sense the manifold pressure quick enough to open the thottle going uphill. Dealer poked a wire down the pipe to clear the soot. That fixed it.

[old Jack]

Agree with the lost 2 posts.

Always best to check the easiest, quickest and cheapest possible causes firsts as well as ask other questions.

1. When cleaning out the MAP vacuum hose don't forget to also do the hose barb on the manifold.
2. When testing the hand primer pump, wait overnight or the longest time you can afford, then pump the hand pump until you can pump it no more. Under 8 pumps means there is not an air leak between the fuel filter and the engine pump.
3. Auto or Manual, if Auto does the gear display on the dash remain in "D" when the engine loses power?
4. Is the ASCTC activating light flashing when the engine loses power.
5. If you have a sticky brake light switch or it is poorly adjusted, or it is faulty or the driver is a left foot braker then this can also cut engine power.
6. Is an aftermarket trailer brake controller fitted?

All of the above are easy to check, before removing the in tank filter.

OJ.