Brakes are terrible

[Pittsy87]

Brakes are feeling like theres nothing there at all.
Replaced original ones to RDA rotors and pads but havent lasted bugger all, now feels like ive got next to no brakes after only about 5 - 10k kms out of them

What spec DBA rotors and pads are people putting on there NW paj.
I have also got a lot of extra weight on my vehicle with bullbar, winch, bashplates, dual batteries etc etc

Advice on what brake setups yous are running would be great.

[nj swb]

What have you done to diagnose brake problems?

Have you attempted to bleed your brakes?

When you replaced rotors and pads, was it all four wheels, or only the front?

Did you inspect the old pads? Were the all evenly worn to about the same thickness, or was there significant variation between the pads?

Have you pulled the current pads to check for abnormal wear patterns?

[Pittsy87]

Hi NJ

Diagnosis is just use of brake pedal

No havent attempted to bleed brakes

Yes replaced all 4 rotors

It was over a year ago when i replaced them and ive been driving with them feeling crap for ages now (i know my bad) cant remember the wear eveness of old pads

No havent pulled the current pads off to check.

The whole car shudders something terrible when braking now as well.
You feel it through the pedal, steering wheel and the whole car and dash shuddering.

[craka]

Hi NJ

Diagnosis is just use of brake pedal

No havent attempted to bleed brakes

Yes replaced all 4 rotors

It was over a year ago when i replaced them and ive been driving with them feeling crap for ages now (i know my bad) cant remember the wear eveness of old pads

No havent pulled the current pads off to check.

The whole car shudders something terrible when braking now as well.
You feel it through the pedal, steering wheel and the whole car and dash shuddering.

Have you checked caliper pistons and seals?

[old Jack]

The whole car shudders something terrible when braking now as well.
You feel it through the pedal, steering wheel and the whole car and dash shuddering.

Could be glazed pads giving the lack of braking performance and or pad material buildup/deposits on the rotors causing the shaking and pulsing.
When the rotors and pads replaced was the brake pad manufacturers bedding in process followed?
Were the caliper slide pins free and lubricated?
Was a engine running brake bleed done according to the Service Manual?

OJ.

[geopaj]

I’ve tried a couple of different brands of pads on my NT (including Bendix which were terrible when cold).

Strangely, the best pads I’ve come across have been genuine Toyota pads (120 Prados use the same front and rear pads/callipers as Gen 4 Pajero). I get them from the local Toyota dealer (just ask for 120 Prado pads) and have found they are also cheaper than Bendix!

[_jp_]

At 25000km my factory rotors showed signs of warping so I replaced the 4 factory rotors with DBA T2 slotted and also fitted Bendix Heavy Duty pads all round.
At 95000km I replaced the F&R pads again with the same Bendix Heavy Duty. Rotors were fine.
Gave the fluid a good bleed both times and they've been great.
Make sure the new rotors are cleaned thoroughly with brake/parts cleaner as they normally have a covering of oil from manufacture. Also follow the bedding in instructions from the pad manufacturer.

[Pittsy87]

Had the local mechanic i use change the pads and rotors last time whilst getting a service done so i would presume and hope he knows and done the proper bedding in process

[rykiel575]

Whens the last time the brake fluid was replaced? Takes a good 1L. O usually use 1.5L. You also have to activate the HBB/ABS solenoids

[gazza11]

Hello, I own an Nt Pajero and I have recently replaced the front brakes with DBA slotted Survival T2 Rotors and replaced the front and rear brakes pads with Bendix 4x4 pads. I flushed and replaced the brake fluid with 1lt Castrol DOT4. The brakes are remarkable. Better brake pedal is harder, far more progressive and stops far better then the original brakes. A highly recommended brake upgrade.

[rykiel575]

Fresh brake fluid will make a world of difference.

[tnor]

In addition to upgrading the rotors and pads, I have replaced the rubber flex hoses with braided stainless steel ones which seemed to provide much better feel on the brakes

Sent from my SGP771 using Tapatalk

[Odie]

I second Old Jack on checking the slide pins. They can corrode quite badly in the right conditions I had the front discs machined twice before I worked out the glazing/warping was being caused by pads grabbing on corroded & dirty slide pins. A couple of small sachets of grease from any auto parts shop will cost less than $10 and give you plenty of lubricant to lubricate the cleaned up pins on all four wheel calipers. A pair of small pliers to undo the pins is the only tool you need other than a wheel brace.

[Jorgo RX Pajero]

Yes the original Rotors are made of chocolate - went through two genuine sets by approx. 80,000ks and thought - there has to be better out there. Replaced them at 100,000ks as a part of a big birthday for the vehicle with DBA T2 Rotors and Bendix Off Road pads, Flushed and replaced fluid, resealed the callipers and replaced the standard lines with braided lines from Safe Brake Australia - did the whole job myself over few days making sure everything was properly lubricated and assembled correctly (have HD Plant Mechanic background) - and what a difference - highly recommend this as a justifiable upgrade, particular if you tow a fair bit. Hard to tell what parts made the most improvement as I replaced everything at once.