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Fuel and fuel systems Petrol vs Diesel, LPG Conversions, premium fuels, and all that gas

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  #1  
Old 16-02-18
scribble88 scribble88 is offline
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Default Broken fuel tank studs

Hey All,

So about a year an half ago I was taking off the lid on the fuel tank, where the in-tank filter is attached too (Cargo bay of Pajero). I was checking and replacing the in tank fuel filter.

In the process of taking that lid or top of the fuel tank, I broke two of the studs that hold the lid to the fuel tank.

This weekend I am planing on removing the fuel tank, to clean it, as contaminated fuel or diesel bug has got in to the tank.

I though that since I was taking the tank out I would try and repair those studs. I just don't know how to replace them. I cannot weld or have access to a welder. Rivnut or nutsert I think wouldn't seal; then there is the issue of trying to keep the metal shards out of the tank when i drill the old studs out.

Is there any product that can be attached/screwed onto the existing studs, so a nut can be attached, holding that lid in place.

Any advice boffens?
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Old 16-02-18
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nj swb nj swb is offline
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I see your predicament.

I would consider using a thread sealant such as Loctite 542, or similar.

Drill and install a nutsert / rivnut using Loctite around the hole, then use bolts to attach the lid, also using Loctite on the thread.

According to the TDS here, Loctite 542 appears unaffected by motor oil, and stands up well to petrol - I suspect it will also stand up well to diesel.
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Old 16-02-18
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Dicko1 Dicko1 is offline
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I often use a magnet when drilling steel. Put it close to the drill bit and it normally collects 90% of the steel shavings.
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Old 16-02-18
scribble88 scribble88 is offline
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Thanks nj swb and dicko1, great suggestions. Will do.
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2010 3.2 DiD Activ Pajero 5sp Manual. Bilstein and HD Lovells 50mm lift, Toyo Open Country II A/T, Diff breathers, SPV EGR Mod, Exedy HD Clutch, Xforce 3" exhaust, Electric brake controller, Lightforce 170 Striker spotlights, Cree broad beam light bar, Front bumper camera, Reversing camera system for trailer, Airtec Snorkel. Full set of Bushskinz bash plates.

Last edited by scribble88; 16-02-18 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Stupid autocorrect
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Old 17-02-18
Morville Morville is offline
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NEVER, EVER weld a fuel tank that has had fuel in. Even if empty the fumes can cause an explosion.
Peter
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Old 17-02-18
scribble88 scribble88 is offline
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Moreville,

I cannot weld anyway, but yeah it is good advice.

NJ SWB

Sorry the rivnut has a lip on it, so the lid would not sit flush.

Think it is in the too hard basket. A professional could do it, but not this little black duck.
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2010 3.2 DiD Activ Pajero 5sp Manual. Bilstein and HD Lovells 50mm lift, Toyo Open Country II A/T, Diff breathers, SPV EGR Mod, Exedy HD Clutch, Xforce 3" exhaust, Electric brake controller, Lightforce 170 Striker spotlights, Cree broad beam light bar, Front bumper camera, Reversing camera system for trailer, Airtec Snorkel. Full set of Bushskinz bash plates.
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Old 17-02-18
paul77 paul77 is offline
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Have you had a look at the wreckers or on Gumtree? I don't think a standard tank is worth much.. maybe you can just put a different one in. If you have use for it, this might be a good time to get a long range tank. Mine is petrol but I got a 150l tank used for $300. I've probably already saved that much by driving past expressive servos and waiting out the price cycles.. (more relevant for petrol, I know..)

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Old 17-02-18
Boo Boo Boo Boo is offline
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You can get nutserts which are almost flush when inserted.
With a gasket and some sealant this may work.
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Old 20-02-18
scribble88 scribble88 is offline
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Paul77,

Oh I wish. I have rung so many wreckers around Australia, same story: " yeah we have one, but it's dented from the forklift used to move the car ". Also, I got to thinking, a second hand tank, possible sitting for a while, rust, crud in it. As it is, I have crud or the diesel bug in the system, ruining my economy and NO power; not sure I want to add to it. If it was a petrol it might be a better option, diesels are too sensitive.

Amayama, Partsouq and Megazip, either don't list the part or have the part in stock. I suspect that they may not be able to sell fuel tanks, could be used as part of a bomb or something. Mitsubishi Aust. want $1200.00, not inc. shipping, rather buy th ARB one.

Boo Boo,

Great solution, thanks. I have pulled the tank out, put some selleys roof guttering silicone around the lid to seal it. The two studs that broke off, broke just above the lid holes, so there is some tension from them. I am hoping that the silicone will hold it in place; we do travel over some serious corrigations. Not sure if I can summon the energy to pull the fuel tank out again.
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  #10  
Old 20-02-18
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Silicon will fail after a couple of months. You need to use a petroleum resistant sealant like one of the Permatex products

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