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Where the rubber hits the road. Discussion about drive train; (locking) diffs; wheels; hubs; suspension and, of course, tyres

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  #11  
Old 03-07-19
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Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Hi Shane,

Hopefully our paths will cross one day and we can do a test whilst having an ale then sit around the campfire with a red or two and solve the worlds problems.

On my next trip with some of the Adelaide Forumites we might do a test. just for the fun of it!

OJ.
You are on, best I get myself to ADL then - there is an event next year @ Easter in Millicent I could go to, problem being at this stage, I only have the week prior off, so its a wait and see thing at present.

A real world road test would be a great test I reckon. You know where I think the result will lay, but I'm very happy to eat a lavish helping of humble pie.
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  #12  
Old 03-07-19
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My 2c:

For dropping pressures from highway to something quite low (like sand pressures, as per OJ's Stauns), I don't think there's much in it. The Deflator does each tyre faster, but the Stauns can do them all at once, so from pulling over to ready to go there isn't a lot in it.

I have a set of Stauns somewhere (in Shorty's glove-box, I hope, because I can't find them at home), and didn't mind them - but mine wouldn't always cut off at the "set pressure". Yes, I know it's all my fault because they must be dirty, or dusty, or dropped in the sand, but I swear I looked after them well - so I like that the Deflator gives me better control.

But the Deflator is definitely slower for small pressure adjustments, for which I use the blade of my pocket knife.

To me, the Deflator really comes out in front when I'm dropping from highway pressures to "other" pressures - say low 20s, for slower dirt roads. Above my Staun pressures, but too low for me to sit and deflate with my knife blade.

Yes, I could run around and stop the Stauns early, then check and adjust each tyre to the final target pressure, but that sort of defeats the purpose in my mind.

So horses for courses. When I find my Stauns again, I'll probably throw them back into the NT's glove box, then choose whatever tool is best for the job at hand.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #13  
Old 04-07-19
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I just use a valve core tool and take the core out, around 20 secs does it then adjust from there. Use an analogue Draper Pro gauge to level and carry a full set of spare valve cores. Usually going straight to about 14/15psi though for sand driving.


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  #14  
Old 04-07-19
signo1985 signo1985 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
My 2c:



For dropping pressures from highway to something quite low (like sand pressures, as per OJ's Stauns), I don't think there's much in it. The Deflator does each tyre faster, but the Stauns can do them all at once, so from pulling over to ready to go there isn't a lot in it.



I have a set of Stauns somewhere (in Shorty's glove-box, I hope, because I can't find them at home), and didn't mind them - but mine wouldn't always cut off at the "set pressure". Yes, I know it's all my fault because they must be dirty, or dusty, or dropped in the sand, but I swear I looked after them well - so I like that the Deflator gives me better control.



But the Deflator is definitely slower for small pressure adjustments, for which I use the blade of my pocket knife.



To me, the Deflator really comes out in front when I'm dropping from highway pressures to "other" pressures - say low 20s, for slower dirt roads. Above my Staun pressures, but too low for me to sit and deflate with my knife blade.



Yes, I could run around and stop the Stauns early, then check and adjust each tyre to the final target pressure, but that sort of defeats the purpose in my mind.



So horses for courses. When I find my Stauns again, I'll probably throw them back into the NT's glove box, then choose whatever tool is best for the job at hand.
Which deflator are you using the arb one or another model?
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  #15  
Old 04-07-19
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Originally Posted by signo1985 View Post
Which deflator are you using the arb one or another model?
Mine's the ARB. I find that

1. winding on the deflator,
2. removing the valve core,
3. reinserting the valve core, and
4. removing the deflator

all takes time. For a few psi adjustment, the tip of my pocket knife is easier. I haven't figured out exactly what size pressure drop makes it worth breaking out the deflator. Maybe one day I'll time myself.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #16  
Old 08-07-19
signo1985 signo1985 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
For speed, you cannot do better than a set a Staun Deflators, I have 2 calibrated at 20psi and 2 at 15psi, this covers me for general low range off road pressures and sand pressures. When dropping to sand pressures I put the 20psi regulators on the first 2 tyres then fit the others, I come back and manually deflate the first 2 tyres the last 5 psi.

OJ.

I wasn't really after the fastest deflator, but an alternative to the valve core removal ones.
Saw this arb inflator e thought it looked great.

I was mainly trying to understand how slow it would really be. If we're talking double the time i could live with it, if it is 15minutes a tire from black top to sand pressure....well stuff that
Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
Mine's the ARB. I find that

1. winding on the deflator,
2. removing the valve core,
3. reinserting the valve core, and
4. removing the deflator

all takes time. For a few psi adjustment, the tip of my pocket knife is easier. I haven't figured out exactly what size pressure drop makes it worth breaking out the deflator. Maybe one day I'll time myself.

Sorry should have asked properly.

Are you using the arb inflator/deflator - ARB601 or the EZ deflator??
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  #17  
Old 08-07-19
Paj11 Paj11 is offline
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Mate I have the Stauns set to 18psi, ok one is 19, one is 17, I can recalibrate them if I want which would take all of 5 minutes, but it’s no issue, and it works a treat. When they are locked in they don’t budge, or do what I do I mark a line so I know where to set back to if they are moved slightly if they used by someone else and they accidentally loosen the lock but. I go around the car, takes 2 minutes to put them on and I just stand up and talk to the MRS, while everyone else is on their haunches.I do an audit pressure every now and then to make sure they haven’t drifted and it’s all good.
If you want you can invest in another set and set them up for rough trails, I dunno 28psi, at around 90 bucks a set it’s a bit of an investment to buy another set, or you could just set two up at 18 and the other two and 28 and mark them. The best investment I made.
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Last edited by Paj11; 08-07-19 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Stupid iPhone spell check spelling Stains instead of Stauns.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signo1985 View Post
Sorry should have asked properly.

Are you using the arb inflator/deflator - ARB601 or the EZ deflator??
I don't have the 601 - I didn't even know it existed until this post.

I wouldn't buy one, not sure I'd carry it if I was given one.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, 3.15 gears, LRA Aux tank, bullbar, winch, lights, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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