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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #1  
Old 10-05-09
Eire1 Eire1 is offline
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Default NH Suspension Lift

Hi people,

I have just bought new Ironman coil springs and four new shocks for my NH SWB to get a 50mm lift. I also have new 32 11.5 R15 BFG MT KM2s. So now its time to fit it all!

I would appreciate any pointers you have to help me out.

I have already adjusted the torsion bars up. The control arms are now up against the top bumpstops. Is this ok or should there be a space between them? The front is currently 750mm from bottom of rims to guards, think this is pretty good (rear is currently at 750mm also). I might trim the stops to allow the front to go up a bit further.

The shocks and springs seem pretty simple, although I?m not sure how much I should tighten the nuts up on the shocks. And I?m not sure where the best place to put the car stands are when im working under it?

When I?m there I think I will remove the rear swaybar also. I assume this is straight forward too? Would anyone recommend removing the front sway bars or just leave them?

If anyone could give me some hints, tips or pointers it would be great. and is there anything else I could do to improve the off-road ability while I?m at it?


Thanks,
Rory.
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  #2  
Old 10-05-09
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nj swb nj swb is online now
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You should have a gap between the control arm and the stops - I wouldn't like to have anything less than 10mm, I think mine's closer to 15mm. If there's no gap the front wheels won't be able to drop into a pot hole, so the front end will drop instead. Makes for a rough ride, which is why so many people think "cranking the torsion bars" makes them stiffer. (It doesn't.)
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  #3  
Old 11-05-09
'87 Pajero '87 Pajero is offline
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G'day mate, i just put gq springs in the back of my nh, i put a big trolley jack under the rear diff, jacked the car up as high as it could go and chocked under the chassis rails in the middle of the car, under the back doors sort of thing. take the wheels of, undo the top nuts on the shockers and let the diff down on the jack. you may also have to undo the swaybar where it mounts to the chassis on each side. the axle should go down enough that the springs just drop out. if they dont, the car needs to sit higher and or the diff needs to go lower, i ended up having to pull the jack out from underneath, and it was a bugger to get back in! then reverse the procedure. bottom bolts on the shocks are 22mm and bloody hard to crack. Front torsions on mine i have cranked all the way, too stiff so i will slacken them until the car just comes off the stops and cut the stops a bit to maintain drop. see my other post about disconnects for a good link to sort out your swaybar. Good luck!
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  #4  
Old 12-05-09
Eire1 Eire1 is offline
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Thanks for the help guys.

I have got the front shockers on, easy enough although when i was tightening one of the bottom bolts i wrang the shit out of the bolt and nut! so i had to buy a new bolt, and its just long enough. I would feel better with a longer one where a bit more thread is sticking through after the nut is on.

So i will have to lower the torsion bars a little. if i cut the droop stops to give about 10 mm would that be enough or should i also drop the bars a bit too? I hope the front does not look low compared to the back when im finished.

I got the springs out too, just about! I lifted the car as high as i could, nearly lifted the roof off the garage too!! I was under the impression the new springs would be bigger but they are not, i assume they just dont compress as much to make the car sit higher?? Also the assist springs are completly buggered, but i dont think this is a huge issue??

Your right about the bottom bolts on the shocks being a bitch to get off! Thats where ive left it for now, more tomorrow!

I did read about the sway bar disconnects but is it possable to remove the bar for now and replace it when i get the disconnects together? or is it a bitch to put back in?

Cheers
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Old 15-05-09
Pajero1 Pajero1 is offline
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I nearly chucked it trying to get my sway bar out, what a bitch session that was.... but I stuck at it and had it removed, just need to play with around with the trolly jacks/height to get it out.....
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  #6  
Old 15-05-09
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1993 NJ LWB 1993 NJ LWB is offline
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At the front just cut the droop stops to the molded line IMO.
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