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  • NJV6
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2010
    • 606
    • New Zealand

    Rear wheel bearings

    Is it normal to only get 90000 km out of a wheel bearing on a gen 4? My gen 2 has never been replaced in 22 years and the axles have been in and out numerous times (never buy an ARB air locker RD154 - they have a design fault) and never been touched bearing wise!

    Are you guys replacing them with genuine or aftermarket?
    1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
    1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
    2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...
  • razorback481
    Member
    • Nov 2014
    • 136
    • Lewiston SA

    #2
    i have just done Grant's NS with these from Febest at $147.50ea

    Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Febest 0482V97R at the best online prices at eBay!


    i got a set of bearings from CBC but they didn't come with the hub like the earlier NM one's did
    they were $149 trade

    i called MM and they wanted $705ea retail and $525ea trade for genuine

    Comment

    • wazza1965
      Member
      • Mar 2011
      • 176
      • Brisbane

      #3
      Not sure how much they changed between a gen 3 to a gen 4 but I have just replaced mine with 500k on them.
      NM2002 Exceed DID. Safari Snorkel, Garrett GTX2863R Turbo, HPD Intercooler, Synergy / Turbosmart controllers, Mandrel 3" Exhaust Pyro, Built auto, ECB Bar with 12,000lb Winch & Dyneema rope, Rotronic battery system, 2x 120Amp/h AGM AUX batteries, Lovell 2", Airbags, Rhino AT2012, Fiamma Awning. 4x IPF spots 120w HID inserts. Alpine NAV Bluetooth with Type R sound system, UHF Uniden UH8080NB, Couplertec. Rear draw system, 1500w inverter. ARB twin comp / tank, ARB Locker. Evakool. NASA BM-1.

      Comment

      • NJV6
        Valued Member
        • Sep 2010
        • 606
        • New Zealand

        #4
        Thank you, That would appear to be an excellent price. I can get one here in NZ from MM for just under $500 +GST (15%).
        1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
        1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
        2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

        Comment

        • Ian Sharpe
          Valued Member
          • Nov 2000
          • 2176
          • Tasmania

          #5
          Originally posted by NJV6 View Post
          Is it normal to only get 90000 km out of a wheel bearing on a gen 4? My gen 2 has never been replaced in 22 years and the axles have been in and out numerous times (never buy an ARB air locker RD154 - they have a design fault) and never been touched bearing wise!

          Are you guys replacing them with genuine or aftermarket?
          I can vouch for the Gen 2 , ive never needed to replace a rear wheel bearing ever.

          BTW what is the design fault, is it specific to the RD154 or to arbs in general. I had my RD110 for over 10 years without fail until I replaced it with an Eaton. I also have an Eaton in the rear.
          NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
          NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

          Comment

          • NJV6
            Valued Member
            • Sep 2010
            • 606
            • New Zealand

            #6
            I was waiting eagerly for the 154 when it was being developed and as soon as they came available I bought one. I don't actually know if it is a design fault or not but the new seals they use these days are a different shape and also the 154 has the seals very close to the egde of the locker. So mine leaks like a sieve and doesn't work. It's been in and out about 4 times and each time the seal is damaged, we think because it is so far out on the diff there is a small amount of flex damaging it. So I cannot use it, it's just an expensive open diff. It dumps the air (from ARB compressor tank) instantly causing the front locker to unlock as well.

            Funny thing is, on the bench it works perfectly. We lean on it with bars etc to replicate driving but it never unlocks yet in the vehicle even with no load driving in a straight line it unlocks. When it was new it would unlock when climbing up a washout where all the load goes on the wheel on the ground but It wouldn't unlock when the load was on both wheels, it would stay locked doing a tight turn on a sealed road.

            I thought maybe it was just mine that I got a dud but have heard or another and also there was one for sale on this site a few months ago that was leaking to be replaced with an eaten.

            I too have had a rd110 for probably 7 or 8 years and no problem. It is not my installer that is at fault as he has done hundreds without fail. I would be buying an eaten locker next time. Do you notice the lock/unlock/lock when going forward to reverse?
            1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
            1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
            2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

            Comment

            • Ian Sharpe
              Valued Member
              • Nov 2000
              • 2176
              • Tasmania

              #7
              Originally posted by NJV6 View Post
              I was waiting eagerly for the 154 when it was being developed and as soon as they came available I bought one. I don't actually know if it is a design fault or not but the new seals they use these days are a different shape and also the 154 has the seals very close to the egde of the locker. So mine leaks like a sieve and doesn't work. It's been in and out about 4 times and each time the seal is damaged, we think because it is so far out on the diff there is a small amount of flex damaging it. So I cannot use it, it's just an expensive open diff. It dumps the air (from ARB compressor tank) instantly causing the front locker to unlock as well.

              Funny thing is, on the bench it works perfectly. We lean on it with bars etc to replicate driving but it never unlocks yet in the vehicle even with no load driving in a straight line it unlocks. When it was new it would unlock when climbing up a washout where all the load goes on the wheel on the ground but It wouldn't unlock when the load was on both wheels, it would stay locked doing a tight turn on a sealed road.

              I thought maybe it was just mine that I got a dud but have heard or another and also there was one for sale on this site a few months ago that was leaking to be replaced with an eaten.

              I too have had a rd110 for probably 7 or 8 years and no problem. It is not my installer that is at fault as he has done hundreds without fail. I would be buying an eaten locker next time. Do you notice the lock/unlock/lock when going forward to revherse?
              yeah it does unlock and relock when going in & out of reverse. I must admit that when I first heard of it I was pissed off to say the least. But I guess I will have to live with it.

              heres a video of it

              NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
              NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

              Comment

              • razorback481
                Member
                • Nov 2014
                • 136
                • Lewiston SA

                #8
                The difference between the NM/NP and the NS on is the 4 mounting bolts
                12mm on the early ones & 14mm on the later ones

                that's how they lifted the tow rating

                Comment

                • ReefMaster
                  Member
                  • Aug 2015
                  • 85
                  • Tarneit VIC

                  #9
                  Originally posted by NJV6 View Post
                  Is it normal to only get 90000 km out of a wheel bearing on a gen 4? My gen 2 has never been replaced in 22 years and the axles have been in and out numerous times (never buy an ARB air locker RD154 - they have a design fault) and never been touched bearing wise!

                  Are you guys replacing them with genuine or aftermarket?
                  Hi ,
                  Today I went for a wheel balance and alignment . The tyre tech advised there was no point doing the wheel alignment as my rear bearings are showing play. My Gen 4 has only done 90000klms
                  2010 NT Pajero Exceed

                  Koni Raid 90 series Lovells HD/ Koni Raid 88 Kings KCRR-35HDSP. Front & Rear ARB diff lockers/18inch CSA Jackals on Atturo Trail Blade MT 275/65/18. Full Bushkinz/SAFARI snorkel/ARB Deluxe Bar & Runva 11XP/GME TX4500S/
                  Piranha Dual Battery system /UL80-VO AGM battery/ Gista 160W Solar Panel/36 inch 480W LED Light bar/Kings Awning and Awning tent/9inch 185W Led/ LRA tank
                  Wants: a roof tent/ exhaust/drawers

                  Comment

                  • erad
                    Valued Member
                    • Mar 2015
                    • 5062
                    • Cooma NSW

                    #10
                    Originally posted by ReefMaster View Post
                    Hi ,
                    Today I went for a wheel balance and alignment . The tyre tech advised there was no point doing the wheel alignment as my rear bearings are showing play. My Gen 4 has only done 90000klms
                    Check the axle nut for tightness - you may be able to get some slack out of the bearing that way.

                    Comment

                    • dabela1972
                      Member
                      • May 2009
                      • 58
                      • Taylors Hill Victoria

                      #11
                      Just replaced my rear wheel bearing after 190,000 kms. Only reason I had to replace was my Mitsubishi Service department badly dinted the cap for the main axle nut and water was getting in and rusted the bearings out.

                      It was really easy job to do accept when I bought the wheel bearing it didn't come with the hub attached and therefore you need to press the bearing off the wheel hub. 4 hours later as it was rusted on and we didn't have a press but we eventually got it off with a $60 Gear puller from Super Cheap which we had to slightly customise.

                      Bearings were $194 from CBC Bearings in Sunshine VIC.

                      Saved $550 doing it ourselves.

                      Starter Moter is next job now. Mitsubishi wants $1550 bucks, I think it will cost me under $50 to replace the brushes.
                      Factory:
                      Rear Diff Lock / Tow Bar

                      After Market:
                      ARB Deluxe Bull Bar / Old Man Emu Springs and Shocks / ARB Fridge Freezer / ARB Portable Compressor / ARB Dual Battery Sytem / BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A 275/65/17 Warn Winch 9000lbs / UHF CB / Clarion HD TV, DVD, Reversing Camera, Bluetooth, Sat Nav with Rear Screens / Kingd Awning / Kings Tradies Rack / Kings Led Light Bar

                      DIY Camper Trailer

                      Comment

                      • dabela1972
                        Member
                        • May 2009
                        • 58
                        • Taylors Hill Victoria

                        #12
                        How to replace Wheel Bearings and Hubs on Pajero

                        Hi Guys,

                        I've had to change a couple of Wheel Bearings and Hubs on my Pajero now.

                        Heres a How to Your Tube Video with a blow by blow that i put togther.






                        Hope it helps.

                        Thanks

                        Dave
                        Factory:
                        Rear Diff Lock / Tow Bar

                        After Market:
                        ARB Deluxe Bull Bar / Old Man Emu Springs and Shocks / ARB Fridge Freezer / ARB Portable Compressor / ARB Dual Battery Sytem / BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A 275/65/17 Warn Winch 9000lbs / UHF CB / Clarion HD TV, DVD, Reversing Camera, Bluetooth, Sat Nav with Rear Screens / Kingd Awning / Kings Tradies Rack / Kings Led Light Bar

                        DIY Camper Trailer

                        Comment

                        • erad
                          Valued Member
                          • Mar 2015
                          • 5062
                          • Cooma NSW

                          #13
                          dabela1972: Great coverage of the job. I hope that I don't have to do it myself, but if I do, I now have your youtube addresses recorded. I was surprised that you could get the old hub out without a puller.

                          Comment

                          • dabela1972
                            Member
                            • May 2009
                            • 58
                            • Taylors Hill Victoria

                            #14
                            Yes the 1st one was a nightmare but the second one becuase the hub was attached was a breeze.

                            Hope i could be helpful.

                            Dave
                            Factory:
                            Rear Diff Lock / Tow Bar

                            After Market:
                            ARB Deluxe Bull Bar / Old Man Emu Springs and Shocks / ARB Fridge Freezer / ARB Portable Compressor / ARB Dual Battery Sytem / BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A 275/65/17 Warn Winch 9000lbs / UHF CB / Clarion HD TV, DVD, Reversing Camera, Bluetooth, Sat Nav with Rear Screens / Kingd Awning / Kings Tradies Rack / Kings Led Light Bar

                            DIY Camper Trailer

                            Comment

                            • Pajshomoneroguntero
                              Valued Member
                              • Jul 2013
                              • 1438
                              • Sydney

                              #15
                              Great vid and one of the best “how to” guides I’ve seen on YouTube.

                              I’ve tapped the hub assembly out by screwing the four bolts in a number of threads and sequentially tapping each bolt with a mallet. I wouldn’t be keen using this method if you find you really want to wallop a stuck hub in case of damaging threads either on the hub assembly or the bolts themselves.

                              Also the hub nut and cotter pin are supposed to be single use. I think the nut is $8 from Amayama plus the shipping of course. Probably $25 from the dealer though.
                              NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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