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Replacing factory head unit - retain factory link system mic?

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  • TC.Barky
    Valued Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 3573
    • Melbourne

    #16
    Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
    They sure do!
    Bugger. I thought that might be the case but couldn't find anything concrete. Aerpro said it wouldn't work at all without it. Apparently the steering wheel harness they sell has got some kind of microchip that does some processing on the signals (which is why it's more expensive than the basic harness adaptor).
    MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
    Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

    Comment

    • Keithyv
      Valued Member
      • May 2018
      • 1366
      • Perth

      #17
      Originally posted by TC.Barky View Post
      Bugger. I thought that might be the case but couldn't find anything concrete. Aerpro said it wouldn't work at all without it. Apparently the steering wheel harness they sell has got some kind of microchip that does some processing on the signals (which is why it's more expensive than the basic harness adaptor).
      Nope, you 100% don’t need it, not with a headunit that can learn the key presses (like the Pioneer and others can)
      There’s no processing needed, the steering wheel buttons are just a resistor array across 2 wires.
      I’m sure it will work just fine with an adapter, just choose ‘with adapter’ when setting up the unit SWC controls.
      2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
      MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.

      Comment

      • TC.Barky
        Valued Member
        • Oct 2011
        • 3573
        • Melbourne

        #18
        Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
        Nope, you 100% don’t need it, not with a headunit that can learn the key presses (like the Pioneer and others can)
        Yeah I asked them that and they said the phone buttons wouldn't work
        MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
        Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

        Comment

        • TC.Barky
          Valued Member
          • Oct 2011
          • 3573
          • Melbourne

          #19
          So got all the bits, impressed so far. Will start the install of the unit proper tonight.

          I've done the start of setting up the harnesses, just a couple quick questions though:

          1. Not sure what the red/white RCA plugs are for on the aeorpo harness? Will this be the audio output to the speakers? If so do I plug it into FL/FR or RL/RR? Would've thought there'd be channels for the rear as well given you can fade/balance. (I'm sure it will become clear when I pull the dash off and have a look at everything but just in case thought I'd ask.

          2. I assume given I'm not installing a reversing cam to the unit I can just leave the purple (rev wire) as-is not connected to anything. Any tips for the green (handbrake) wire? Can I just connect that to positive power so I don't have to worry about handbrake needing to be on to do stuff? Thought they usually connected to earth but pretty sure the instructions wanted connection to the positive side of the switch.




          Also, thought I'd show some progress on the mic (given that's what this thread was started for).

          Not the neatest job but should be subtle enough when up in the roof pod. Might grab another one from a wrecker and see if I can do a neater job on the holes in the blank. Mic is just gonna be held in by double sided tape initially, will revisit if need be but think it will be ok.




          Last edited by TC.Barky; 29-05-20, 12:53 PM.
          MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
          Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

          Comment

          • OldEmmGee
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2016
            • 304
            • Adelaide

            #20
            I would be interested to learn how well the micrphone works hidden away in the trim. I have always left the microphone exposed (they need all the help they can get!)

            I found the best location was forward of that trim you have - just above the rear view mirror; discrete enough.
            2018 PS; King Springs on rear; Nudgebar; Hardkorr lightbar; rear storage inc Aux battery/Redarc BCDC; Provent EGR filter; Rear diff breather; reversing floodlight; MSA mirrors for towing a Bailey caravan....rarely....

            Comment

            • Keithyv
              Valued Member
              • May 2018
              • 1366
              • Perth

              #21
              Originally posted by TC.Barky View Post
              So got all the bits, impressed so far. Will start the install of the unit proper tonight.

              I've done the start of setting up the harnesses, just a couple quick questions though:

              1. Not sure what the red/white RCA plugs are for on the aeorpo harness? Will this be the audio output to the speakers? If so do I plug it into FL/FR or RL/RR? Would've thought there'd be channels for the rear as well given you can fade/balance. (I'm sure it will become clear when I pull the dash off and have a look at everything but just in case thought I'd ask.

              2. I assume given I'm not installing a reversing cam to the unit I can just leave the purple (rev wire) as-is not connected to anything. Any tips for the green (handbrake) wire? Can I just connect that to positive power so I don't have to worry about handbrake needing to be on to do stuff? Thought they usually connected to earth but pretty sure the instructions wanted connection to the positive side of the switch.



              Also, thought I'd show some progress on the mic (given that's what this thread was started for).

              Not the neatest job but should be subtle enough when up in the roof pod. Might grab another one from a wrecker and see if I can do a neater job on the holes in the blank. Mic is just gonna be held in by double sided tape initially, will revisit if need be but think it will be ok.

              1. My guess is those RCAs should go unused unless you have an external amp.

              The 4 speakers (8 wires) will be taken care of in the main wiring loom

              2. Yes leave the reverse trigger wire not connected.
              For the handbrake wire, I'd recommend connecting it up. It's really easy. Just tap it into the wire going to the handbrake, which is -ve when pulled up not a +ve trigger. The other alternative is just to ground it but some headunits will know if you've done this - not sure if the Pioneer will care.
              2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
              MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.

              Comment

              • TC.Barky
                Valued Member
                • Oct 2011
                • 3573
                • Melbourne

                #22
                Originally posted by OldEmmGee View Post
                I would be interested to learn how well the micrphone works hidden away in the trim. I have always left the microphone exposed (they need all the help they can get!)

                I found the best location was forward of that trim you have - just above the rear view mirror; discrete enough.
                We'll see how we go You can buy aftermarket versions of the factory mic I'm pretty sure I've seen (which I find absolutely fine) that work with aftermarket head units so I could try that also. Hoping to avoid an exposed mic if I can avoid it.


                Originally posted by Keithyv View Post
                1. My guess is those RCAs should go unused unless you have an external amp.

                The 4 speakers (8 wires) will be taken care of in the main wiring loom

                2. Yes leave the reverse trigger wire not connected.
                For the handbrake wire, I'd recommend connecting it up. It's really easy. Just tap it into the wire going to the handbrake, which is -ve when pulled up not a +ve trigger. The other alternative is just to ground it but some headunits will know if you've done this - not sure if the Pioneer will care.
                Ahh yeah you're probably right RE the RCAs, been ages since I've changed a head unit and I've never used a predone loom so it threw me for six a bit

                Thanks for the notes, I'll just hook it up as intended. If it pisses me off I'll revisit.
                MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
                Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

                Comment

                • TC.Barky
                  Valued Member
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 3573
                  • Melbourne

                  #23
                  Update: Just realised what the RCA plugs are for. They are to retain the factory aux inputs. Rang aerpro and they confirmed. Plug into the audio in ports on the back of the head unit.
                  MY14 NW GLX-R 3.2L Auto Build Thread
                  Fitted: 265/70R17 Kanati Mud Hogs. Ultimate Suspension HD Front EHD + bags rear. MM Towbar. OL Bullbar. SPV EGR Mod. Bushskinz Bash Plates x4. Roleys Rear Bar Protector. Icom IC-400Pro. Rhino Pioneer Tradie Rack. CTEK CTD250S w/ Dual Bats. Airtec Snorkel. Scangauge II. Blackvue Dash Cam. TC mod. Autosafe Half Barrier. Masten TPMS. Drifta Custom Drawers w/ Mounted Compressor. 47L ARB Fridge. Domin8rX Winch. Towing an MDC stepthrough.

                  Comment

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