NW Build up

[no_brainer]

So after owning (my) 2012 NW Exceed since new, with a change to the family dynamics (kids are older, it's no longer the daily family drive and the wife has her own new car) I am about to embark on the journey of transforming my Pajero in to a tough tourer / medium heavy weekender. The car owes me nothing (financially) so looking at a 10-15 year lifespan before moving on if needed.
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I still have 3 car seats so anything in the boot is limited for the time being until the rug rats are older (7,4,3).
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I have been googling and researching like mad and have a fair idea of what I would like/need but not being brand specific/allegiance I'm absolutely open to the opinions/views/experience of the brains trust.
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So what I am after is opinions advice on what you ladies and gents have done. What's worked/what hasn't etc. I have a pretty decent budget and don't like to do things half arsed although the battle between cost/quality will always exist. The goal is to do weekend every month or so and then longer trips a few times a year.
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For the record I am looking at the following;

Downsizing from 18" to 17" wheels with 50/50 or aggressive AT boots to match

Suspension - I like the ability to adjust the shocks so those makes are in the lead - currently liking the Tough Dog setups. Looking at the usual 50mm lift.

Winch Bar; ARB/TJM/Opposite Lock/ Xrox - I'm aware of the issues of having HID and washer which may preclude the Xrox

Side steps - looking at the bushskinz

Scrub bars - still looking

Under body protection - looking at Boos Bash Plates (pearl white car, black bars red bash plates should look shmick)

Rear bar - looking at the Rasslar twin jerry/spare tire but open to suggestions

Snorkel: Airtec vs Safari vs ??? - is there really a difference?

Winch - it's not going to be heavily used (hopefully) but certainly there as insurance. 9500lb vs 12000lb ???

Lights - the usual combination or distance v spread. The fact that current lights interfere with the DVD irritates the kids so looking at some day time driving lights as well.

Roof rack - thinking along the lines or a touring setup with a cage/rails at the front open rear so if I choose to add a roof top tent later I can.

Dual battery - engine mounted to start with. As the car seats disappear it may be relocated to the rear (or a 3rd battery)

UHF - hand set controlled, 6db ariel (give or take)

Lights - Rounds / Bars - Looking for the usual mix of distance and spread. With the in car dvd the kids complain when the lights come one during the day. looking at a mix of 7" spotties with a light bar for spread and a set of dedicated driving lights for day time. - Throwing in some work lights for around the camp at night.

Catch Can / Prefilter - is one really better then the others
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Pods and gauges - the mind is a blur in the vast sea.
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Other mods I'm considering in the near future:
Exhaust
Intercooler
Chip - Torquit V Unichip etc
Long range fuel tank etc
Awning - thinking 270 degree but open to suggestions
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Long term mods - drawers, fridge slide the list goes on and on
What other components have you upgraded to strengthen drive line / suspension / diffs / lockers etc?

Any input would be greatly appreaciated

Cheers
Mark

[Seigried]

Both of my gen 4 pajeros run mann and hummel catch cans. I downloaded the technical manual for them after a short google and found that they are good from ambient tempretures of -40°c to somewhere over the 100°c. This along with the efficiency and long life of the filter (50000-70000ks dependent on driving style) sold me over knock offs and other brands. If your handy on the tools you can make a bracket and install for less than $200.

My ns runs lovells medium front, ehd rear with enduromax shocks and struts. They were on the car when I bought them. Unlike the previous owner i dont do much towing so I might downgrade the rear springs at some point, there a bit to stiff for offroad unless im really loaded up. Otherwise for daily driving I cant fault them on road

As for gauges i use an old dash mounted android 5" phone connected to the obd2 via a blue tooth adapter from jaycar. Software is torque pro. This also gives me some inclinometers.

I have an olderstyle program selectable dtuk/spider chip arachnid piggyback ecu

Factory bash plates, bullbar and factory side steps. The bullbar limits approach too much for my taste.
Both the paj's run pirelli scoprion atr tyres. I may upgrade to a more aggressive tyre soon as one set is due for replacement.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[GHendo]

Hi Mark

Winch: I’d go for the 12,000lb. as you can never have too much grunt in a winch. You’ll get dill salesmen who tell you stupid things like “oh, you’ll pull the front out of your Pajero with a 12,000lb. winch … ha ha.” I’ve got a 12,000lb. on my NP and it gets used a lot around the farm – from straightening fence posts to dragging cattle out of bogs. Just recently I pulls a neighbour’s (quite large) 4x4 tractor out of a bog with it. He was literally bogged over the axles in a drain and I had my doubts the winch would pull him out – but with the wife standing on the foot brake to stop the Paj. from moving, it slowly but surely extracted him from the bog.

Roof Rack: If you want something to put a tent on, you need to remove the OEM rails and replace them with something like the Rhino rails. Removing the old rails is a pain as the roof lining has to be pulled out to take the nuts off from under the roof – at least that is the go with the NP. The new Rhino rails are secured in the channel in the roof where the old ones came out, and you can then attach what you like – I put a flat platform on mine which doesn’t rise the height very much – I can still get in parking places that have a clearance of 2mt. - and my vehicle has had a 50mm lift. The Rhino platform also allows you to attach accessories which hold a host of things from spare tyres to tents etc. It will also support a lot more weight than just using the original OEM rails to hook onto.

Cheers
Geoff

[StevieJ]

Put Kings variable rate springs in rear so they ride smooth with no load and toughen up when load added - very happy with these. No difference in height compared to Lovells. But I put Lovells springs in the front cause they're slightly higher than Kings and Kings fronts are not variable rate so no benefit there.
Have Bilstein shocks - good but seem a bit harsh. Have since read there is a Koni shock that is softer.
Have got Mickey thomson ATP3 tyres and they're annoyingly noisy, probably due to Pajero average NVH. Will try something else next time.
Bushskinz have new alloy(?) bash plates that are much lighter and stronger than steel and thir transmission plate covers significantly more of underbody.

[no_brainer]

Cheers lads
All good info so far. Loving it.
Decisions decisions and not enough whisky to help
Hahaha

[no_brainer]

Torqit complete system

So I have a pretty good idea of what I am going after and have priced up the following
OCAM Aluminium Roof rack
ARB Sahara Winch Bar (sometimes having an exceed sucks because of the HID and washers) and brush bars
Safari Snorkel
Bushranger 10,000lb winch synthetic rope
Secondary battery with Redarc management system DC/DC - Rear double sig socket plus USB ports
Ironman suspension - 300kg constant load springs with adjustable shocks 40mm lift front and rear
BoosBash Plates - full set
Bushskins sliders
MCC Rear Bar - jerry can / single tyre
Nighthawk LVI Spotlights
Stedi Light Bar (12" or 14") independent driving light so it doesn't affect the DVD player
Rok 20 flood lights
GME UHF
Second fuel filter
270 degree awning (probably go Kings cause they're cheap for now)
Looking at Nitto Ridge Grapplers or Radar Renegade RT in 265/65/R18 or
Scan Gauge
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Contemplating a full Torqit System (Pedal/Chip/Exhaust)
Tossing up between a Waeco 65L CFX and the Snomaster 66LExpidition Series.
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Once the car seats are gone so much more to go haha
Not going to worry about Rim size just yet - that's an expense that can wait

[PhilipK5]

Airtec snorkel is a better fit than Safari on NW and easier to fit yourself.
Lights - have purchased from 4x4 supercentre 9inch LEDs complete with wiring harness work very well and much cheaper than ARB etc.
Winch Dominator 12,000 also from 4x4 supercentre - cheap reliable.
Bull bar - Ironman also straight forward fit.
UHF Uniden remote handset get the basic model as top of the range has features you will be unlikely to ever use.
I use Anderson sockets for my fridge / air compressor etc as sigs sockets often work loose on rough roads and don't carry higher current as well.
Get the Traction control loom - works very well to allow you to use the diff lock and keep traction control on. Look it up on the forum here.
17inch rims give more flexibility with lower tire pressures for off road use than 18inch rims.
Suspension lift is very important on the NW - I went with Bilsteins and Lovels springs, I went with HD as I tow a camper trailer. Works great without needing rear airbags and ride still good. Haven't found a need for bashplates yet but have been used to a lower clearance 4x4 previously so drive to avoid damage.
Tyres - I have just changed from BFGs to TOYO OPAT2s ATs. BFGs were getting really noisy after about 45,000ks. The TOYOs are much quieter and smoother ride and the tread looks like it will be good off road best off all quite a bit cheaper to buy than new BFGs.

[no_brainer]

Cheers mate

some great info and ideas there.
Dropping to 17" rims is definitely on the cards but for now that $1k for rims can wait.
Reading the through the posts on ASC/TC and diff locks is something to think about but I
have neither the time or the skill to do the mod myself at the moment hahaha.
As time is a premium - as in I have none - this build will be put into a shop.
Yes it'll incur some expense but as least I know everything will be installed properly and neatly
unlike the dodgy first second and third cuts of mine haha.
I'd love some drawers and fridge etc but unless I can find ones to fit around the anchor points this will be a custom job which I can kind thinking of doing (within limited skill set)


watch this space