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Generation 4-3 Pajero NW model 2011 - 2014

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Old 16-01-20
Muzza Muzza is offline
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Default FYI Auto oil change

Just a FYI post
Changed the oil in the auto sump
Rear plug on sump(14mm), made a scoop to direct oil using a ice cream container cut down after sitting overnight I drained exactly 3.6lt, using a Tom Thumb pump I put 3.6 back thru the the side plug(drivers side location )(24mm).
The oil had done only 63000 , but was very dirty, this wasn’t a full flush,
I used Penrite ATF-LV, cost $42 at local shop, and will do the same again each year.
I was going to buy Mitsubishi PA oil as listed in the book, however the dealer only stocks mitsubishi Dia spec III.
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Old 16-01-20
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geopaj geopaj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muzza View Post
Just a FYI post
Changed the oil in the auto sump
Rear plug on sump(14mm), made a scoop to direct oil using a ice cream container cut down after sitting overnight I drained exactly 3.6lt, using a Tom Thumb pump I put 3.6 back thru the the side plug(drivers side location )(24mm).
The oil had done only 63000 , but was very dirty, this wasn’t a full flush,
I used Penrite ATF-LV, cost $42 at local shop, and will do the same again each year.
I was going to buy Mitsubishi PA oil as listed in the book, however the dealer only stocks mitsubishi Dia spec III.
Did you replace the oil filter in the transmission pan (sump)? This requires dropping the pan but is definitely part of the transmission service procedure (like you also wouldn’t change the engine oil without changing the oil filter).

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/ry...ter-kit-rtk138
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Old 16-01-20
BruceandBobbi BruceandBobbi is offline
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It isn't a filter. It's a strainer.

If the strainer is blocked you have big problems.

Remember MM say the Asin in the NT onwards is sealed for life.
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Old 16-01-20
wazznt wazznt is offline
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Remember MM say the Asin in the NT onwards is sealed for life.
Only if your planning for a short life .
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Old 16-01-20
BruceandBobbi BruceandBobbi is offline
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Exactly.
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Old 16-01-20
Muzza Muzza is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geopaj View Post
Did you replace the oil filter in the transmission pan (sump)? This requires dropping the pan but is definitely part of the transmission service procedure (like you also wouldn’t change the engine oil without changing the oil filter).

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/ry...ter-kit-rtk138
I didn’t do a full service, I will do that at 120k, this was only a part oil change
The main reason for putting up what I did, I had trouble finding this on the web, lots of info on checking while running and full service, but bugger all on how much drains and how to replace, with vehicle off
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Old 16-01-20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
Remember MM say the Asin in the NT onwards is sealed for life.
That’s ‘Mitsubishi speak’ for the fact that they deleted the dipstick.

It is definitely not sealed for life... even the service schedule in the MM Service & Warrenty book states the auto trans fluid should be;
1) inspected every 15,000km
2) replaced every 90,000km in severe conditions
3) replaced every 195,000km in normal use.

Two separate independent transmission workshops in Adelaide have also advised me that 90,000km is too long and they recommend the auto trans be serviced every 50,000km.

The Asin transmission is definitely serviceable and not ‘sealed for life’.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
redbruce redbruce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
It isn't a filter. It's a strainer.

If the strainer is blocked you have big problems.

Remember MM say the Asin in the NT onwards is sealed for life.

They dont. Major service is scheduled for 180,000km.

Earlier if duty cycle warrants it.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Last weekend I took car on road trip to my mate who services my NW. He took the trans sump off, replaced the filter/strainer and the oil had a slight brown tinge to it. Refitted the pan and although this was not a full flush we used about 8 litres of Penrite oil. I did this for peace of mind. At 75000klms it is just out of 5 year warranty and has spent half of its life towing and short suburban runs. My mechanic owns a NS Pajero with 180,000klms on the clock and he checked his oil at about the 150,000klm mark and said that the oil was in good shape. Stating that if little towing was done, some highway use and some suburb use then 200,000klm would be the time for a full flush...once again, his opinion and it also depends on cars usage. I,ll wait till 200,000klms now and get a full flush at an auto trans specialist.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko1 View Post
Last weekend I took car on road trip to my mate who services my NW. He took the trans sump off, replaced the filter/strainer and the oil had a slight brown tinge to it. Refitted the pan and although this was not a full flush we used about 8 litres of Penrite oil. I did this for peace of mind. At 75000klms it is just out of 5 year warranty and has spent half of its life towing and short suburban runs. My mechanic owns a NS Pajero with 180,000klms on the clock and he checked his oil at about the 150,000klm mark and said that the oil was in good shape. Stating that if little towing was done, some highway use and some suburb use then 200,000klm would be the time for a full flush...once again, his opinion and it also depends on cars usage. I,ll wait till 200,000klms now and get a full flush at an auto trans specialist.
That’s really interesting. It must vary greatly depending on the vehicle’s use. When we did mine 2 months ago (approx 100,000km service interval) the oil was very dark and required additional oil to flush. From this change, I’ve decided to reduce the service interval again to 50,000km.
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| ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | airbags | Cooper AT3 LT's | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank in rear seat well | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

My Build Thread - HERE

Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')
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