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PB -PC Challenger 2009 - 2014 Covering 2.5 HP diesel

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  #1  
Old 24-09-17
jimiw jimiw is offline
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Default Engine oil change

Hey all,

going to attempt my first oil change next week just a couple of questions

do you guys use anything to clean it after draining the oil? or do you add to oil before draining. Product suggestions e.t.c or just not needed at all? Not sure how this part works

My mechanic when he changed it last time said it only took 6L and the dipstick was way too high at that, but manual says 6.5L. Any experiences or further knowledge regarding this?

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
Old 24-09-17
JeepChallenger JeepChallenger is offline
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Hi Jimi,

Its a very easy procedure. I normally drain oil when engine is warm. This way all the debris haven't had the time to settle down and are still suspended in the oil we are draining. Some oil is always retained in the oil channels etc so it may take a little less than suggested. I always recheck the oil level next morning after the change to be double sure.

I was advised against adding any flush to the oil as some of the oil is always retained in the engine.

I also add Liqui Moly MoS2 oil additive to fresh engine oil. It is made in Germany and has Molybdenum Di Sulphide as a lubricant. MoS2 forms a layer on the moving components of the engine and helps reducing friction.

Hope it all goes well....

Cheers
Mani

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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  #3  
Old 24-09-17
BruceandBobbi BruceandBobbi is offline
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As for adding an oil flushing agent. Some do, some don't. We always do and at over 330,000k have no complaints.

Nothing opens the worm farm more than discussions about 2 stroke, dc_dc charges, oils, oil additives, fuel additives, tyres, pre or after filters, OEM filters.

Do what you are comfortable with.
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  #4  
Old 24-09-17
Ozzyal Ozzyal is offline
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I add a flushing agent about every 3rd change . But I honestly think that changing the oil earlier rather than later is of more benifit .
15000 kms between changes on a diesel is too much in my opinion .
I'll be doing mine at 7500 kms
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Old 24-09-17
amec amec is offline
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Do you have a friend that might take you t hrough the process the first time?
Oil change is not difficult.
Youtube will have a plethora of how to's i'm sure.
But put simply, remove protection tray from under the engine, place a 10lt or larger container/tub under the sump plug. Remove the sump plug, oil coming out will be very hot and capable of burning you if you're not careful. Wait for the oil to drain, 5-10 minutes should do.
Replace the copper washer on the drain plug with a new one, put the sump plug back in. Make ig tight but not too tight.
Refill with oil until the dipstick shows full. Start the engine and let it run, make sure the oil light goes out on the dash. Stop the engine after running for a minute.
Let the oil settle in the sump for a few minutes. Recheck oil level on the dipstick. Top up if needed Check the sump plug is tight. Refit the protection plate under the engine.
Job done.
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Old 24-09-17
amec amec is offline
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https://youtu.be/1Opvss6gnrw
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Old 24-09-17
Rexxo Rexxo is offline
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Access the filter by removing the RHF wheel and removing the rubber flap.
I find it's cleaner to punch 2 holes in the old oil filter (1 at the top and 1 at the bottom) with a long flat blad screw driver and let the oil drain out before removing it.
It also helps to use the new oil filter box to make a chute to direct the draining oil past the chassis rail and suspension arms into your drain bucket.
A little extra mucking around, but saves cleaning a lot of spilt oil from everything afterwards... and think of the $$ you have saved!!
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  #8  
Old 25-09-17
jimiw jimiw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rexxo View Post
Access the filter by removing the RHF wheel and removing the rubber flap.
I find it's cleaner to punch 2 holes in the old oil filter (1 at the top and 1 at the bottom) with a long flat blad screw driver and let the oil drain out before removing it.
It also helps to use the new oil filter box to make a chute to direct the draining oil past the chassis rail and suspension arms into your drain bucket.
A little extra mucking around, but saves cleaning a lot of spilt oil from everything afterwards... and think of the $$ you have saved!!
I have to remove the front wheel to get to the filter?
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  #9  
Old 25-09-17
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mudguard1 mudguard1 is offline
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NO. Just remove the Turbo to Inter Cooler pipe at the turbo and tuck it up out of the way .
That will give you more than enough room to get to the filter.
When you spill some oil out of the Filter across the Chassis and Steering arms , just squirt with degreaser and give a good hose off
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Old 25-09-17
jimiw jimiw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudguard1 View Post
NO. Just remove the Turbo to Inter Cooler pipe at the turbo and tuck it up out of the way .
That will give you more than enough room to get to the filter.
When you spill some oil out of the Filter across the Chassis and Steering arms , just squirt with degreaser and give a good hose off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFiuD6ZIQbE

found this its a really good video. removes filter without taking out turbo hose.

How often should u change ur fuel filter i don't know when mine was last done.

feeling more confident i thought i needed ramps to do the oil but this guy did it just on flat ground.
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Last edited by jimiw; 25-09-17 at 03:28 PM.
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