I just used a long pry bar between the fan and it's bolts (Or nuts? can't remember) behind it turn turn the motor. It took no effort at all to do it this way. I turned the fan pulley clockwise (standing in front of the car looking at the engine) which turned the cam shafts anti clockwise. Seemed to work a piece of piss and was much easier than getting a socket down behind the radiator to the crank or alternator as my Paj is in the garage nose into the wall up on axle stands! That's another story coming soon....
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Did my valve clearances today.
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This is a sticky topic.
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Cheers, Hatto
2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.
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Hi, I'm a new Pajero owner and pleased to have found this forum. I am a qualified mechanic and would like to make a small comment here on Goodsy's method of turning the engine. It is not a good idea to turn the engine by the camshaft as this puts a lot of unnecessary strain on an already under designed cam drive set up. I did mine the other day and home mechs might find it useful to know that if you remove the cooling fan and lay it back against the radiator you will find ample space to used a half inch drive ratchet and 24mm socket to easily turn the crankshaft in the correct direction of rotation. Great forum with a lot of very useful info.
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Originally posted by iang6766 View PostHi, I'm a new Pajero owner and pleased to have found this forum. I am a qualified mechanic and would like to make a small comment here on Goodsy's method of turning the engine. It is not a good idea to turn the engine by the camshaft as this puts a lot of unnecessary strain on an already under designed cam drive set up. I did mine the other day and home mechs might find it useful to know that if you remove the cooling fan and lay it back against the radiator you will find ample space to used a half inch drive ratchet and 24mm socket to easily turn the crankshaft in the correct direction of rotation. Great forum with a lot of very useful info.NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift
Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.
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Big up to goodsy
Did valve clearances today. Feeler gauges are a bit subjective to me. But I made sure the correct side would fit in with the feel of slight friction then made sure 0.03 added wouldn’t fit and that the correct size still had that slight friction to it. Fingers crossed.
Most were not too bad. But rear most intake on cylinder 4 was super tight. And the exhaust was sloppy.
My tips. Turn car over using alternator nut, turning that clockwise will turn crank clockwise but cams will be opposite. Take it slow.
Take air box out if ur small like me. Can sit in car and makes it easier.
Look for protrusions to identify TDC.
Go through sockets make it much easier for lock nuts just don’t over tighten. 10nm
Crank needs turned 360 for next bankLast edited by green troll; 26-12-18, 09:41 AM.
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Decided to give my valves a check and adjust along with replacing the injector seals, fuel pipe seals, rocker cover gasket and oil cap seal. Had a small seep of oil from one of the injector seals so though why not and do the lot. Whilst I was there replaced top chain guide and timing chain tensioner. Part numbers below for 2008 NS purchased from Partsouq.com
Injector oil seals ×4.........MN158385
Fuel pipe seal ×4.........1052A099
Rocker cover gasket.......ME192209
Oil cap seal ...........MD103148
Timing chain tensioner..........1141A045
Timing chain tensioner seal..........ME193622
Upper chain guide.............1140A026
So my NS had slight diesel clatter hence why doing this work. Paj has 240000kms. The upper chain guide had marks on it, probably 1 mm deep and end of timing chain tensioner looked pretty much ok. Vehicle now quieter with no clatter anymore. Some of the valve were a bit loose.
Couple of tip, hints below
I removed the plastic fan to get better access to the crank bolt to turn the moter, fan only has 4 bolts and easy once the upper fan shroud is taken off.
To clarify the crank is clockwise turns the cams anti clockwise.
I used straight feeler gauges but think an offset set would make it easier.
On a side note, after fitting my Paj with the resistor mod around 2 years ago for the EGR when I took off the intake and EGR it was clean as...........so happy with that.
Apart from that its all mentioned in this post. Big thanks to Goodsy and all who contributed in this thread.2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel
Previously
88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​
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Any know how to view the images?From the dealer:
MY14 NW GLX-R Auto, graphite grey, tow ball, 18" alloys, rubber mats, window tinting.
Have add:
ARB bulbar, Runva 11XP, Redarc Tow Pro, Milford Cargo Barrier, Bushskinz bash plates(intercooler, sump, gearbox and transfer case), Bushskinz rocksliders/sidesteps, two pairs of cross bar roof racks,
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Originally posted by 4wdboat View PostAny know how to view the images?
I use imgbb.com but when you post you have to select Bulletin Board for the code to work here and delete the [img] and [/img] at the start and end otherwise it has these either side of the image. I'll contact one of the admins and suggest people use that instead.NW 2012 Pajero Exceed 3.2 Diesel, 18" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs offroad / Coopers Discoverers onroad; 66 Mustang Convertible; Suzuki M109R 1800, DR650 Dirt bike.
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Diesel injector de-pressurise
Can anyone tell me if I have to depressurise the injector system before undoing it for a manifold clean and tappet adjustment? Do they retain high pressure like an injected petrol engine?NW 2012 Pajero Exceed 3.2 Diesel, 18" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs offroad / Coopers Discoverers onroad; 66 Mustang Convertible; Suzuki M109R 1800, DR650 Dirt bike.
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Originally posted by aussieintas View PostNo it doesn't so all good.
I'm going to do valve clearances and manifold clean together as it's all apart anyway and the car has 235k kms on it and no mention of ever having a manifold clean (tappets were done).
Never worked on a common-rail diesel before. Do I just get the 'valve adjustment seal kit' from MM? I don't need the 'Injector Washer Rocker Cover Gasket Seal Kit" do I? I'd only need this if I have to replace injectors?
I've read through the instruction files I've found and assume I don't have to touch the actual injectors?NW 2012 Pajero Exceed 3.2 Diesel, 18" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs offroad / Coopers Discoverers onroad; 66 Mustang Convertible; Suzuki M109R 1800, DR650 Dirt bike.
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Originally posted by Edzhere View PostThanks for that, good to know.
I'm going to do valve clearances and manifold clean together as it's all apart anyway and the car has 235k kms on it and no mention of ever having a manifold clean (tappets were done).
Never worked on a common-rail diesel before. Do I just get the 'valve adjustment seal kit' from MM? I don't need the 'Injector Washer Rocker Cover Gasket Seal Kit" do I? I'd only need this if I have to replace injectors?
I've read through the instruction files I've found and assume I don't have to touch the actual injectors?
Note if it is the 6th time the fuel pipes are removed you will need those also.Last edited by spot01; 09-12-19, 01:05 PM.Pajero NX MY21 GLS
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Originally posted by spot01 View PostI think you just need the valve adjustment seal kit. Part no. on my last invoice was AU900093 for $148 + GST.
Note if it is the 6th time the fuel pipes are removed you will need those also.NW 2012 Pajero Exceed 3.2 Diesel, 18" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs offroad / Coopers Discoverers onroad; 66 Mustang Convertible; Suzuki M109R 1800, DR650 Dirt bike.
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Originally posted by Edzhere View PostThanks for that. My car has 235,000 km on it and had log book services by a mechanic 400km from Perth but only has one record in the 'injector pipe removed page' so should be fine. I have all the service records and it only shows up o there once as well. I'll be interested to see what the manifold looks like and the tappet clearance as I can only see where they were done once.
It will be interesting to see how far out they are - if you can post the "before" gap measurements I'm sure a lot of people will be interested.Pajero NX MY21 GLS
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Originally posted by spot01 View PostThat is a very long time between tappet adjustments (compared to the MMAL 30k intervals) - when was the last one done? I see you are already onto the issue where some mechanics don't enter all the pipe removals into the book.
It will be interesting to see how far out they are - if you can post the "before" gap measurements I'm sure a lot of people will be interested.
My ex Police Paj had no record of valve clearance checks done when I purchased it with 55,000km on the clock. It had been serviced at the same mechanic in a 1 horse town in far north west Vic.
I finally got around to checking clearances at the 90,000km service, measuring as I went to determine how far out they were.
Two exhaust valves were 2 thou out. That was it.PCOV Member 1107.
Daily driver NX GLX
Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.
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