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I'm pretty sure they are variable. I've been talking to my 4wd specialist about building up an MQ and he told me they don't recommend using a standard solenoid system for them. You need to use one of the smart dc to dc charger systems.
Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
Standard alternator, I have a Projecta 100 kit and it works just fine. I'm getting 13.7 volts at the second battery and its located in the tub.
Do you actually know that the alternator isn't ECU controlled or are you just assuming that's the case because you've measured 13.7 at your aux battery?
You will still get that sort of voltage with ECU control, just not all of the time. A standard solenoid system will work, but nowhere near as well as a dc-dc charger does. That's the case with standard alternators too btw. You will rarely if ever get full charge into a deep cycle aux battery with a solenoid system.
It would be unusual for a euro 5 compliant diesel to not be running ECU alternator control.
Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
I had my car at the dealership to pick up some parts and asked them about the alternator, the reply was that it is a 'standard 90A constant voltage alternator'. They are the experts right
As for the state of charge I measured 13.7 volts at the second battery on start up and a similar voltage after my trip an hour later. The sitting voltage in my second battery was 12.52 volts when I first installed it and just recently found it sitting at 12.86 volts.
I've had no problem running my fridge and some camping lights overnight, but this is my experience only. Like I said I picked up a Projecta 100 kit on special for just on a $100, I'm not sure how much the DC/DC Charger but if it works fine now then I'm not complaining and my wallet is better off
Interesting. I was at the dealer yesterday doing a deal on an MQ GLS and asked the service guys about the alternator. The reply was that the Pajero Sport definitely had an ECU controlled alternator, and they were 'pretty sure' the Triton was the same.
When the vehicle is delivered I'm going to have to put a multimeter on it and drive around for a while to satisfy my curiosity now.
The DC-DC systems will definitely achieve consistently higher levels of charge in auxiliary batteries than a solenoid system will, but you are paying extra for getting that higher capacity storage.
(edit) The Projecta DC/Solar charger I'm putting in costs a little over $400 btw.
Last edited by Merts; 07-04-16, 09:49 AM.
Reason: afterthought
Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
ECU controlled alternators have an inbuilt clutch.
2015 MQ, MY16 Triton therefore is non ECU controlled, no clutch...;
Pajero NT 2010 Activ. Ironbark, after market GPS radio 2 DIN, Uniden radio, Bilstein shocks, Lovell SD springs, poly air airbags, Bushskinz under body bash plates, chip, K&N air filter, spot lights, nudge bar, Waeco RAPS, Anderson plug, window tint, Yokohama Geo lander At/s, Wet seat seat covers, RAM mount
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