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I got a Masten TP05S TPMS. Even though it's on all the time I've given it a good run in off road conditions too. Notably trips included Fraser Island, Uluru and recently to Cape York so a reasonably varied selection of terrain. I run 8 sensors so every wheel including the spare on the camper is monitored.
I'll list the pros and cons from my perspective and in no particular order:
Pros
Cons
* I mentioned internal sensors in both the pros and cons lists. I like that the sensors are not attached to the external valve. This avoids damage and also removes that extra bit of mucking around particularly if you're using locks on an external sensor.
When I initially installed the sensors I had bare rims which allowed me to put them on. The valve stem is replaced with a steel valve which extends inside the rim. It is sealed with two rubber grommets, then the sensor and two nuts. I used silicon on the grommets and thread locker on the nuts because you don't tighten everything up as tight as can be; it will deform the rubber grommet seals if you do.
Even with these preventative measures the seals have failed. I had a reasonably fast leak on a camper wheel out of Uluru. 10psi in about 15 minutes. The unreliable monitoring of the sensor didn't help but once the 10psi loss is sensed the sensor will transmit continually which I assume helped the display pick up the need to trigger an alarm. That wheel was changed and if you would believe it rained, in Central Australian desert of all places, for the experience too. The TPMS also alerted me to a leak just out of Ivanhoe in Western NSW on the way home from Uluru. At the time I thought that maybe I hadn't tightened the valve adequately after the last air-down. The slow leak stayed with me for quiet some time afterward but it wasn't too much of an issue to replace 5psi after a fortnight so I didn't really chase it ie I procrastinated. I had it seen to by the tyre shop when they addressed the camper wheel valve. I went back another couple of times over the year between that trip and the Cape York trip. I've had a slow leak in one of the wheels since getting back from the Cape. The leaky valve confirmed on a recent trip to the Chitchester State Forest and Barrington Tops where I get out of the car to see the valve bubbling. Closer inspection revealed the valve quite loose but you can only tighten it so much without being able to hold the nuts on the inside. Another two started to leak slowly as well after getting back from that trip.
I have now replaced the grommets on all four wheels. Well I've replaced two of the wheels with new grommets. The other two were replaced with used grommets and all got some Sikaflex 227. I feel quite proficient with the RR Beadbreaker tool after removing the four tyres myself. The spare will need doing at some point too I expect.
Should the problem return which I believe it will my next course of action will be to use banding to hold the sensor to the rim and return to normal valves. I think that the rigidity of the solid valves are chewing the grommets when the tyres are aired down and I'm working the wheels through the terrain. I think the valves may get an occasional push.
Overall I'm happy with the unit. I'm lucky I'm handy enough, have the tools and the confidence and experience to address some of the issues. It would be quite annoying to continually return to the tyre shop to address leaky valves. So either get to the issue on first install (which I would recommend banding and do away with the valves supplied) or be prepared to manage the leaky valves however you see fit.
I'll list the pros and cons from my perspective and in no particular order:
Pros
- The unit is in colour
- Easy to set a new pressure datum
- Set pressure can differ from a set of programmed axles. I've set the camper and it's spare to a different pressure. Handy as when I'm fully loaded on bitumen I'm running about 48psi on the rear, about 43psi on the front and 35psi on the camper, set when cold. I set something like 46psi as the set pressure. This way there is enough buffer to avoid triggering an over pressure on the rears at running temp and still high enough not to trigger nuisance low on the the fronts up to running temp.
- Pressure indication is both analogue as well as a digital readout.
- Temp sensor is integrated but alarm cannot be set based on temp. I think it is factory set at something like 90deg C.
- Internal sensors *
- Can specify axles separate to the primary set. This allows for a separate set of trailer axle(s) which can then be easily toggled to be included in the scan or removed from view. It is this set that will have its own secondary pressure set point as mentioned above.
- You will not miss the alarm unless you are my wife and unplugs the power so that it stops making noise.
- You can scroll through all of the set wheels manually rather than waiting for each position to cycle every 20 seconds.
- Also monitors system voltage; at the point where you are supplying power to the TPMS.
Cons
- Internal sensors *
- Initial set-up may feel overwhelming. You do need to set every wheel and 30 wheels can be set. Most will be skipped but it can easily become a bit tedious. The instructions are comprehensive and well written.
- I have an issue where the camper wheels are monitored until I start moving. I presume the antenna, which is on the display, may be somewhat shielded and may not "hear" the sensor signals reliably when underway possibly as a result of increased RF noise. I did buy an extender as recommended by the vendor of the TPMS. It hasn't made the camper wheels any more reliable unfortunately. I've since bought an extension cable to allow me to reposition the antenna but haven't got around to doing so yet.
- The viewing angle of the display is quite narrow. I've got it attached to the driver's left airvent and will need to fabricate something that will angle the display up to point at my eye. Although you don't really need to continually monitor it as the timely alarm will trigger if there is a problem.
* I mentioned internal sensors in both the pros and cons lists. I like that the sensors are not attached to the external valve. This avoids damage and also removes that extra bit of mucking around particularly if you're using locks on an external sensor.
When I initially installed the sensors I had bare rims which allowed me to put them on. The valve stem is replaced with a steel valve which extends inside the rim. It is sealed with two rubber grommets, then the sensor and two nuts. I used silicon on the grommets and thread locker on the nuts because you don't tighten everything up as tight as can be; it will deform the rubber grommet seals if you do.
Even with these preventative measures the seals have failed. I had a reasonably fast leak on a camper wheel out of Uluru. 10psi in about 15 minutes. The unreliable monitoring of the sensor didn't help but once the 10psi loss is sensed the sensor will transmit continually which I assume helped the display pick up the need to trigger an alarm. That wheel was changed and if you would believe it rained, in Central Australian desert of all places, for the experience too. The TPMS also alerted me to a leak just out of Ivanhoe in Western NSW on the way home from Uluru. At the time I thought that maybe I hadn't tightened the valve adequately after the last air-down. The slow leak stayed with me for quiet some time afterward but it wasn't too much of an issue to replace 5psi after a fortnight so I didn't really chase it ie I procrastinated. I had it seen to by the tyre shop when they addressed the camper wheel valve. I went back another couple of times over the year between that trip and the Cape York trip. I've had a slow leak in one of the wheels since getting back from the Cape. The leaky valve confirmed on a recent trip to the Chitchester State Forest and Barrington Tops where I get out of the car to see the valve bubbling. Closer inspection revealed the valve quite loose but you can only tighten it so much without being able to hold the nuts on the inside. Another two started to leak slowly as well after getting back from that trip.
I have now replaced the grommets on all four wheels. Well I've replaced two of the wheels with new grommets. The other two were replaced with used grommets and all got some Sikaflex 227. I feel quite proficient with the RR Beadbreaker tool after removing the four tyres myself. The spare will need doing at some point too I expect.
Should the problem return which I believe it will my next course of action will be to use banding to hold the sensor to the rim and return to normal valves. I think that the rigidity of the solid valves are chewing the grommets when the tyres are aired down and I'm working the wheels through the terrain. I think the valves may get an occasional push.
Overall I'm happy with the unit. I'm lucky I'm handy enough, have the tools and the confidence and experience to address some of the issues. It would be quite annoying to continually return to the tyre shop to address leaky valves. So either get to the issue on first install (which I would recommend banding and do away with the valves supplied) or be prepared to manage the leaky valves however you see fit.
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