Buying Challenger - cliff notes on what to look for

[Happyfrgncamper]

Hi all -

I've been in the market for a 4wd for 7+ years now, but it's always been a want not a need - the forester I've been driving has been sufficient enough to get me to the majority of camping and fishing spots I've wanted to access and the money (not spent) has gone to other long game life expenses.

But I'm finally at the stage where it's time for an upgrade - I've done my time in the soft-roader and a 4wd of sorts is in the cards!

My budget and 4wd needs are not extravagant - so I've always had an eye on the Challenger or R51 Pathfinder. Essentially the mitsubishi has won out for a few reasons, primarily - newer model/year comparatively to what I'd get in a pathy in the same price range, significantly less reported problems with the challengers and advised better all round on and off road performance. I'm sure a lot of you could throw up more reasons why I've made the right call haha!

So with that short background - I'm in the market and looking this week at a few Challengers and I was hoping I could call on some of the experience here for key things to look for? I have done a lot of reading on this site and general googling - suffering from a bit of analysis paralysis and hope that some could offer a simplified list of "the main" or "key" things you'd look for if buying a new used model.

Essentially the cars I'm looking at are all 2011-2013 models and between 120-170k km odometers. Key points I have for now are:

- Check VIN on MMA site for recalls potentially effecting model (power seat lever, front weld - propeller shaft & suspension arms, blown lighting, floor mats). Also saw mention of incorrectly placed child restraint mounting points? Very important one for car purchase...hint hint
- Check radiator cap for upgraded pressure rating of 127kPa (blown head gasket issue)
- Service history, not 100% sure/memory of the key intervals and work required, but do remember timing belt at 100k km - any help appreciated here
- Seen mention of fuel injectors (4) needing to be done generally around the 100k km mark?
- Sooty egr, but no idea if I can check this by popping the hood and looking?

That might seem extremely short - but if anyone can lend some direction and advice no matter how obvious it may seem to you.- I'd really appreciate the backing before I go in. I'm super excited and stoked it's finally happening,

Thanks and regards, Chris

[old Jack]

Hi Chris,

Welcome to the forum and particularly the Challenger sub forum, a varied range of Challenger owners on here that use their Challengers for daily commutes and family car through to heavy towing, remote outback and serious off road adventures, so vehicles range from stock through to modified for purpose.

You have done your homework quite well and can tell from the use of “Cliff Notes” you have higher education. Your research is correct except for the fuel injectors needing to be replaced. The fuel injector lines need to be replaced after they have been removed and refitted 5 times, the lines need to be removed when the engine tappers are physically checked and adjusted.

You do not say if you are looking for a manual or auto, there are pluses and minuses with both.
Manual trans is more economical, but they suffer from turbo lag and when towing or offroad the clutch needs to be slipped so check carefully how the clutch releases and engages. Some manuals had issues with 3rd gear but this should have been sorted out during the warranty period.
Auto transmission use about 20-30% more fuel, this is due to the poor factory AT ECU programming, this can be improved with a piggyback ECU which gets the fuel use to about 10% more than a manual and greatly extends the ATF service life. Check the colour of the ATF on a piece of white cloth or paper towel, it should be clear and bright red in colour, and have a sweet smell, if it is dark brown, cloudy and smells burnt then the ATF is overdue for a service, flush and change ($500-$700 to have this done.) ATF service is sheduled at every 90,000kms but in loser cases it really should be done every 60,000kms or more often if the vehicle has been used for short city trips, towing or hard off road work,

Inlet manifolds get clogged up, this is common with all modern common rail diesel engines, it is the combination of the EGR and Crankcase Gas Recirculation anti pollution systems, manifold need to be removed and cleaned between 150,000kms and 200,000kms unless an EGR bypass or Catch Can mod has been done. Expect to pay between $400 and $600 for this but if the injector lines are due for replacement then this can easily double! Unfortunately this cannot not be easily checked, you can take off the inlet air hose and look down through the throttle body but most people do not like you pulling their cars apart!

Buying secondhand is always a lottery, the Challenger is my first new car so all others have been secondhand private buys, 1 to 6 years old from either the first or second owner. I look for full service and owner history, I try and find out why the car is being sold. If a car has had more than 3 owners in a few years then I am wary as to why.
Ex rentals or mine lease cars can be risky !

OJ.

[Happyfrgncamper]

Cheers for the quick reply Old Jack - have read a lot of your posts and have been extremely helpful in the decision , so thanks for your contributions even tho ive just only signed up now. No higher education, just know how to sound smart...sometimes!

You do not say if you are looking for a manual or auto, there are pluses and minuses with both.

Missed that sorry tapping out on the phone - regrettably Auto after owning manual for 15+ years, but these are the family needs and compromises! It'll be a secondary car, mostly used for a monthly trip into light off-road tracks for fishing/camping and catching the train to work means it will be mostly sitting in the garage mon-fri.

.

Your research is correct except for the fuel injectors needing to be replaced. The fuel injector lines need to be replaced after they have been removed and refitted 5 times, the lines need to be removed when the engine tappers are physically checked and adjusted.

Thanks for clarification - what indicators can i use to know if the car is in this range of 5 removals? Anything from a full service history and work done, if available, that i can look for?

Auto transmission use about 20-30% more fuel, this is due to the poor factory AT ECU programming, this can be improved with a piggyback ECU which gets the fuel use to about 10% more than a manual and greatly extends the ATF service life. Check the colour of the ATF on a piece of white cloth or paper towel, it should be clear and bright red in colour, and have a sweet smell, if it is dark brown, cloudy and smells burnt then the ATF is overdue for a service, flush and change ($500-$700 to have this done.) ATF service is sheduled at every 90,000kms but in loser cases it really should be done every 60,000kms or more often if the vehicle has been used for short city trips, towing or hard off road work

Great - thank you for this tip!

Inlet manifolds get clogged up, this is common with all modern common rail diesel engines, it is the combination of the EGR and Crankcase Gas Recirculation anti pollution systems, manifold need to be removed and cleaned between 150,000kms and 200,000kms unless an EGR bypass or Catch Can mod has been done. Expect to pay between $400 and $600 for this but if the injector lines are due for replacement then this can easily double! Unfortunately this cannot not be easily checked, you can take off the inlet air hose and look down through the throttle body but most people do not like you pulling their cars apart!

Thanks again - apart from a full service history and looking down the throttle body, is there any way to check this - namely are the catch cans installed in a visible location? And is the EGR bypass the 'blank/blocker plate' that ive read frequently about? Which to my understanding - is technically illegal and, could also be a warranty void if something like an engine replacement needing to be done (which i have come across and it getting done by MMA outside of warranty periods).

Buying secondhand is always a lottery, the Challenger is my first new car so all others have been secondhand private buys, 1 to 6 years old from either the first or second owner. I look for full service and owner history, I try and find out why the car is being sold. If a car has had more than 3 owners in a few years then I am wary as to why.
Ex rentals or mine lease cars can be risky !

Check, check and check!

Cheers OJ and happy for anyone else to share their 2c

[Happyfrgncamper]

Also ill just note - apologies for another "buying a challenger" thread - ive seen the plethora in the "similar threads" section at the bottom of this that i strangely didn't come across in my googling. Reading through all now.