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  • PradoEater
    Valued Member
    • Aug 2012
    • 445
    • Oatley

    Engine bay noise

    Hi all
    Been trying to chase this noise for a while now last few weeks it’s consistent, replaced vacuum lines still there, replaced belts still there.

    When I actually drove the car it’s louder than stationary. Starts about 2400 rpms and goes away around 4000rpms. Tested the solenoid on top of engine bay with 12 v it clicks so it’s not stuck but can’t test it with vacuum as I do t have the tool.

    One thing I noticed thou when removing vacuum hose from either the solenoid and “golden thingy” on top of the turbo it is harder to replicate but it’s still there albeit less noticeable.

    I Did replace a questionable turbo side hose but it wasn’t that. Any Suggestions please share.

    Keen to get to bottom of this.
    Videos https://youtu.be/dcQpElpH1R8

    NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
    Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC
  • aussieintas
    Valued Member
    • Feb 2013
    • 2190
    • Sorell, Tasmania

    #2
    From your 2nd video showing bonnet up, to me it sounds like a bearing issue and appears to be louder at the front compared to when the camera goes to drivers side.

    Could it be one of the bearings or idlers on the Air con or alternator belts
    2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

    Previously
    88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
    92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
    92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
    99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
    95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
    08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

    Comment

    • PradoEater
      Valued Member
      • Aug 2012
      • 445
      • Oatley

      #3
      Ok so it looks like I have a missing nut and a stud from the exhaust manifold bottom side closest to radiator side.

      Any suggestions and advice what’s my options here? Or best way to fix it?

      This a video I found that sounds very similar to mine https://youtu.be/lybU3xnqyVM
      Attached Files
      NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
      Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

      Comment

      • kblof
        Member
        • Apr 2017
        • 82
        • Radelaide

        #4
        sounds exhausty to me as well, no expert mind you
        one of my exhaust nuts was loose on the back of the turbo making a similar sound a while ago.
        where are those photos taken from with the missing bolt, just tried to finding it on mine but i cannot see where you are in your pics? lots of heat shields over exhaust manifold etc?
        2011 NT Pajero| DID

        Comment

        • PradoEater
          Valued Member
          • Aug 2012
          • 445
          • Oatley

          #5
          Originally posted by kblof View Post
          sounds exhausty to me as well, no expert mind you
          one of my exhaust nuts was loose on the back of the turbo making a similar sound a while ago.
          where are those photos taken from with the missing bolt, just tried to finding it on mine but i cannot see where you are in your pics? lots of heat shields over exhaust manifold etc?
          Bolt is at the bottom closest to the thermostat housing,

          It’s pain in the a** I don’t think I’ll be able to take the manifold out turbo prevents at least one bolt at the bottom to come off to take the turbo off will be also a mission by the looks of things
          Attached Files
          Last edited by PradoEater; 02-09-19, 03:35 PM.
          NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
          Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

          Comment

          • kblof
            Member
            • Apr 2017
            • 82
            • Radelaide

            #6
            thanks - it looks to me its the bottom exhaust manifold stud and nut has come out. i tried taking a pic see below (not good) but does show a a stud with a nut same as the one above holding the manifold on.
            Attached Files
            2011 NT Pajero| DID

            Comment

            • aussieintas
              Valued Member
              • Feb 2013
              • 2190
              • Sorell, Tasmania

              #7
              Have a look at Partsouq.com for part numbers. And diagram bud.

              Stud..........ME200011 which is M8 and 43mm long
              Washer.....MF450005
              Nut............ME201039 which is M8

              Couple if pics below to assist. Each port on the exhaust manifold has 3 studs and nuts, so 12 in total.

              Glad you found the issue, now to fix it
              Attached Files
              2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

              Previously
              88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
              92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
              92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
              99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
              95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
              08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

              Comment

              • PradoEater
                Valued Member
                • Aug 2012
                • 445
                • Oatley

                #8
                Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
                Have a look at Partsouq.com for part numbers. And diagram bud.

                Stud..........ME200011 which is M8 and 43mm long
                Washer.....MF450005
                Nut............ME201039 which is M8

                Couple if pics below to assist. Each port on the exhaust manifold has 3 studs and nuts, so 12 in total.

                Glad you found the issue, now to fix it
                I was looking at the Russian site, will be a lot of fiddling. Been looking at this kind of solution as well https://youtu.be/ypJYbKX6v5I any potential issues with this sort of fix?
                NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                Comment

                • aussieintas
                  Valued Member
                  • Feb 2013
                  • 2190
                  • Sorell, Tasmania

                  #9
                  Could you try a M8 bolt straight in, at least as a test or has the stud snapped off? Just wondering
                  2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

                  Previously
                  88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
                  92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
                  92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
                  99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
                  95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
                  08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

                  Comment

                  • disco stu
                    Valued Member
                    • Dec 2018
                    • 3106
                    • Wollongong

                    #10
                    Not sure how the exhaust wrap repair will help your missing stud issue. I have done that to the exhaust manifolds on my NL petrol. I used different stuff available at super crap auto. I cleaned it back to bare metal, grooved it out and put the exhaust putty stuff in there. I then went over the top again with more putty stuff and some exhaust wrap, making sure it was really clean (cleaned with acetone) and back to bare metal so it will adhere properly. Engine is still out of the car, so I can't tell you how long it will last but it was a much simpler/cheaper option than welding the cracks or replacing the manifolds at $600 each or something stupid that mitsubishi wants to charge

                    As for your missing stud-I thought exactly the same as aussieintas. You could just whack a bolt into there instead of a stud. If you're that deperate for a stud I'm sure they aren't hard to find at a fastener place or an engine reconditioner, I'm sure they would have to replace a few. If you're extremely desperate I could probably pull one from this engine I have sitting here, but I honestly don't think its worth the effort. A bolt will likely go in just as easy

                    Comment

                    • aussieintas
                      Valued Member
                      • Feb 2013
                      • 2190
                      • Sorell, Tasmania

                      #11
                      The stud being 43mm in length I was thinking if you go to local Supercheap they have those small packs of bolts, Handy Packs they're called. They have high tensile different lengths, so perhaps 40mm might do the job or even 35mm. That said the nuts onto the studs are only 30NM torque so doesn't need to be too tight using the high tensile.
                      Last edited by aussieintas; 03-09-19, 07:55 PM.
                      2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

                      Previously
                      88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
                      92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
                      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
                      99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
                      95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
                      08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

                      Comment

                      • PradoEater
                        Valued Member
                        • Aug 2012
                        • 445
                        • Oatley

                        #12
                        Stud is snaped and half of it is inside the block will try the quick fix tomorrow I can’t see a way to take the manifold off to drill the leftover stud off
                        NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                        Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                        Comment

                        • disco stu
                          Valued Member
                          • Dec 2018
                          • 3106
                          • Wollongong

                          #13
                          Oh, that sucks!

                          Comment

                          • aussieintas
                            Valued Member
                            • Feb 2013
                            • 2190
                            • Sorell, Tasmania

                            #14
                            Could you get in with an extractor set to save removing everything
                            2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

                            Previously
                            88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
                            92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
                            92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
                            99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
                            95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
                            08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

                            Comment

                            • PradoEater
                              Valued Member
                              • Aug 2012
                              • 445
                              • Oatley

                              #15
                              Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
                              Could you get in with an extractor set to save removing everything
                              Turbo is on the way was also thinking to remove the turbo housing to give me more room.
                              Anyway after revisiting the online manual I found out that one oil pipe coming from back of engine ican actually come off easier than I thought so removing the turbo and manifold if doable.
                              Bit late in my case as I already started the bush fix, if it works out I’ll post some pictures from the fix atm is still curing.
                              NT 2011 DiD 30th Anniversary Edition, factory RD Lock, Toyo RT 33”, PWR interCooler, PWR radiator, MRT EcuTek tune, OL Steel Loop Bar, VRS 9500, ARB Awning, Kings rear awning, Full bushkinz, HD lovells + Koni RAIDS, front & back nolathane, EGR Block, 52'' LED bar, Scan Gauge 2, Projecta 150A, Optima + Fullriver, ProVent 200, Airtec Snorkel, Beaudesert Exhaust.
                              Towing 2015 New Age Manta Ray 19BC

                              Comment

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