25 days stargazing from my swag

[Rovingman]

Great photos, bet you had a blast!!

[efeinblatt]

Oh, Broke Inlet, how I do love thee!

I had no idea what to expect as I left Mount Franklin National Park for Broke Inlet, which is about 40kms North Northwest of Walpole. I backtracked to Walpole, then took the South Western Highway north to Broke Inlet Road. I couldn't quite tell which agency was maintaining the road (I mean, track) - I think it was CALM - but it technically coursed it's way through D'Entrecasteaux National Park, and there were occasional Park signages along the way. It was supposed to be a 2WD road, but about 50 feet in from the turnoff was a very noticeable 'DANGER, 4WD VEHICLES ONLY' sign. I had never seen a 'DANGER' notice before, but I was pretty confident now with my Paj and my abilities, so didn't even blink. I could always turn around if things got too dicey but, actually, the track was a piece of cake compared to many I had taken during this trip.

The track ended in a Ghost Town - I mean, really a Ghost Town, like out of a cowboy film. Not a soul was there - no one single person to inhabit the 10-odd, seemingly abandoned ' tin fishing sacks' stuck together with gaffers tape, and good luck. As it happens, outside one of them was a blue Gen 2 petrol Paj, doors unlocked, in superficially good shape, pair of ladies Blundstones on the floor of the driver's seat, but obviously parked there for a while from the debris and spider webs all over the car. Spooky, and I hoped not an omen of my future.





The place was as eerie as any I had every been, and the harsh desolate windswept landscape only added to the feeling of isolation. Pictures are going to do this best.







It was lunch time. There was a hut with a handmade table on a riketty porch that seemed to be the perfect picnic spot. What's more, I could string a hammock from one of the beams to a nearby tree. This was kind of heaven. I unpacked my chair, sat down for a beer and a sandwich, and figured I would put the swag there for the night. I was protected from wind, which had picked up, and no one was around to bother me. I'd be happy here for days.

I decide to look around some more - there was a very loose sand track I wanted to check out - to see where it led and see if I had the courage to take it. I figured I'd return for a snooze in the hammock. The track was only about 750 meters long - over very soft and rutted sand - but opened up to the 2nd Shangri-La of my trip - the first was at Starvation Bay. And I could see by the tire tracks, that I wasn't the only one who thought so.



Big decision, should I camp here tonight - and risk getting bogged -or stick with my plan to bed down on the porch? I walked back to Paj to get another beer and think it over in the hammock.

SURPRISE! I wan't alone. Seems like this place wasn't quite as abandoned as I thought, and I had set myself up on this guys porch. (I don't know who was more surprised.)



The guy, Leo was his name, looked like a Russian Doukhobor. He wasn't exactly gracious - who would have been - but he wasn't unfriendly. He fitted the place perfectly. I apologized, we exchanged a few words, I offered him a beer, but he had been abstinent for 10 years and wasn't going to change that for me. I packed my stuff back into the car. (I wish I had photos of this setup and the next but, stupidly, I don't.) I bit the bullet, deflated the tires, and set off for my new Shangri-La, where I spent the next 3 nights.

Leo came by the next morning and apologized to me for being so unfriendly - which he wasn't at all under the circumstances. I gave him some strong coffee and he began telling me the story of this place. His grandfather had built the shack - used it as a storage shed of some sort for his business. I didn't quite understand this, because it was a pretty out-of-the-way place to store anything. He had been coming here as a child and the house and passed from his grandfather to his father and, now, to him. He brought along pictures to show me with his aunties as a child here. Leo lived in Walpole, but came to the shack for months at a time to be alone. The place was pretty deserted except for the dreaded 4X4 crowd who would arrive on school and national holidays and tear the beach up. (I didn't realize what a bad reputation we had.) Otherwise, he didn't see much of anyone. The blue Paj belonged to some girl who burned the motor out trying to get here, and it had been towed to it's resting place about 5 months ago. No word from her since.

Leo showed me the best fishing spots, we caught fish together, cooked dinner together and ate on his porch. I could fill up from his rain water tank and use his outhouse. I had my perfect camping spot and he had a friend of sorts for a couple of days. Me too. And the stars were out every single night.

This was the end of my trip. I certainly wasn't going to go anywhere else - it would have been too much of a let down. When the 16th arrived, I packed up and headed to Perth to meet my wife and son. This was my 25th day in my swag gazing up at those stars.

I promised Leo I'd come back with them some day. And I will.

[Scouter1]

Amazing trip report, really felt like I was travelling with you! Some great photos of a lovely part of the world, especially like the last shot of Broke Inlet sunset.

Cheers,
Stephen

[sharkcaver]

And you reckon I inspire you with my reports..... That is a top effort Thanks so much for sharing. Just remember to take me along to greet Leo to next time.

There is something sort of scary, but liberating at the same time doing a solo trip. 25 nights worth, you put me to shame.

[efeinblatt]

Thanks Shane, that's a huge complement. Much appreciated, and I'm humbled.
Of course, I could think of nothing better than making the next trip together to seek out Leo ....

And to everyone else who read, enjoyed, and commented on this thread - thank you so much. The feedback means a lot, and it's what makes this board so wonderful.

[Dicko1]

Thanks Shane, that's a huge complement. Much appreciated, and I'm humbled.
Of course, I could think of nothing better than making the next trip together to seek out Leo ....

And to everyone else who read, enjoyed, and commented on this thread - thank you so much. The feedback means a lot, and it's what makes this board so wonderful.

Blokes like Leo are rare. They are out there and you have to treat them with respect. Leading solitary lives is often their way of escaping the bullshit of the modern rat race. I,ve met a few during my travels and they make me envious. If I was single, I,d be out there too. Keep in touch with him mate. You,ll be a better person for it.

Great writeup and like others I am JEALOUS!!!!

[bennyb29]

And to everyone else who read, enjoyed, and commented on this thread - thank you so much. The feedback means a lot, and it's what makes this board so wonderful.

Came across this thread when browsing from office. Needless to say, i made sure i read through it all, before moving on to mundane daily tasks.

Thanks for a wonderful read, and for the beautiful pictures. Very inspiring.

[paj whisperer]

Thank you for sharing. We were down in Esperance in January. It is truly a beautiful place and your photos have revived those memories as if we only just left yesterday.

Top effort