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  • TheGermanGuy
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2019
    • 7
    • Germany

    Introduction and General Questions

    Hello Friends!


    my name is Brandon and I've just bought my first car ever, and it's a Manual 95' Pajero 2800 TD. I don't know much about cars and I thought I'd pop in here and fire off a few questions.



    I'm planing on bringing my Pajero back from the brink of going to the junk yard and I'll need a lot of help, and I'm hoping to find it here.


    Things I've had done so far:


    1. Welding on the frame rear axle left and right


    2. Welding and partial replacement back fender left and right.


    3. Welding and partial replacement of chassis under passenger door left and right.


    4. (Waiting of Parts) Complete replacement of front fenders left and right.


    6. Complete removal of all plastic from the car (OEM Flairs and such)



    5. (Waiting of Parts) Aftermarket Fender flairs (Had to order them from an AUS seller because no one sells v20 stuff in Europe)




    As you can read from the above, my Günther is a sick old man, but he does have a strong heart still and I'm am absolutely positive that this will be a worthwhile investment in the long run.





    Here Some of my questions:



    1. Günther had a full set of Old Man Emu shocks and springs installed in 2017 and I've been reading around about adjusting torsion bars and the like, what does this mean and how do I know this has been done or not?



    I'm also most likely going to replace the torsion bars, what is a good company to go with, should I just go with the OME bars since I already have the other OME parts installed?


    2. I would like to get a set of rims that widen the stance of the car and was wondering if there was an optimal offset for the v20. I've read, and I quote "People that have used spacers have come to rue the day", so I think I'll stay away from those.



    3. I want to build a tool kit for my Pajero and was wondering if some of you Vets could maybe give me a shopping list of some of the most common screw and nut sizes on the Pajero, and maybe some other tools I'll be needing. I have 0 tools. At least for working on cars.



    I'd like to thank everyone in advance for reading, and if you have any suggestions or things I should read PLEASE do share!


    Cheers,
    Brandon


    P.S. please be gentle


    P.P.S. If anyone is interested I can post some pics of Günther.
  • PajeroNL
    Member
    • Jun 2016
    • 55
    • Clarem

    #2
    I would be focusing on mechanical reliability before cosmetic issues.

    Anything rubber on an old car is likely perished or brittle unless it has already been replaced and will likely be what you need to work on - oil seals, gaskets, belts, radiator hoses etc. If your timing belt hasn’t been replaced in the last 100,000km start with that as failure is terminal for the engine. After rubber comes all things electrical.

    You can find comprehensive workshop manuals on the internet. You will need one of these.

    Parts are widely available on the internet and cheap relative to most cars. Irrespective of where you buy parts, many are sourced from China. They still made Gen 2 Pajeros until 2012 under licence from Mitsubishi. Most of the Chinese parts are OK, but be careful with mechanical components.

    Nuts and bolts are all metric, so get metric socket, ring and open spanner sets.

    Most of the problems you will find are likely to find have been posted on this site, so you have started in a good place.

    There are plenty of Pajeros with >300,000kms on the clock and you can basically keep running forever - if you have the time and interest to do so.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment

    • TheGermanGuy
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2019
      • 7
      • Germany

      #3
      The engine was pretty well looked after by the previous owner, but I am planing on giving the engine a full compliment of new silicon hoses. I'll do the belts and gaskets too if needed, good tip!


      What I've seen under the car is that it need a full compliment of new bushings, they are totally brittle. I've found a full set for the v20 made out of polymer I believe, they are supposed to be tougher then the traditional rubber ones.



      On the electric side of things it's looking okish, the only things not working are my mirrors, lighter socket, and rear drivers side passenger window. I honestly think I'm going to get rid of the mirrors and put on some of those bigger ones on a bracket like you see on some of the Land Cruisers.



      I've found an Australian edition of a repair manual for the Pajero, I've been reading into it as often as I can.

      Comment

      • PajeroNL
        Member
        • Jun 2016
        • 55
        • Clarem

        #4
        You will find all of the electrical bits on eBay etc. The window will probably be the regulator or possibly the switch.

        Nolothane bushes are usually cheaper. Some say they give a harder ride. Rubber probably lasts longer. If you have OME shocks etc they won’t be original.


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        Comment

        • TheGermanGuy
          Junior Member
          • Feb 2019
          • 7
          • Germany

          #5
          I found a really nice old man in England that guts non-functioning Pajeros and sells the parts really cheap. I think I'll get a new window mechanism from him. I just have to figure out the ciggi lighter problem after that.





          These are the bushings I'm planing on getting.


          Comment

          • arrow
            Valued Member
            • Nov 2007
            • 627

            #6
            If it's the cigarette lighter in between the seats and the electric mirrors, they are off a common fuse. Check that before you scrap the mirrors.

            Comment

            • TheGermanGuy
              Junior Member
              • Feb 2019
              • 7
              • Germany

              #7
              Oh man nice tip!! Where do I find said fuse to check? Is it in the box in the engine compartment or somewhere else?

              Comment

              • Dongskie2
                Member
                • Dec 2016
                • 170
                • Manila & Berwick

                #8
                If the fuses are ok for the lighter, check the lighter socket itself, it has its own overload fuse right before the center contact.
                Nothing beats Doing It Yourself.... Tuned 4M40 and 4D56T WIP

                Comment

                • Alex86
                  Valued Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 2416
                  • Here and there

                  #9
                  The combined cig socket/mirror fuse from memory is in the fuse panel under the drivers dash, right side.

                  It has a weird name that might not be immediately obvious- at least I thought so when trying to find a power mirror fuse!

                  Check fuse with a multimeter rather than by eye. Or just replace with a new one.
                  '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
                  Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

                  '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

                  Wanted: Adventure.

                  Comment

                  • erad
                    Valued Member
                    • Mar 2015
                    • 5067
                    • Cooma NSW

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Alex86 View Post
                    The combined cig socket/mirror fuse from memory is in the fuse panel under the drivers dash, right side.

                    It has a weird name that might not be immediately obvious- at least I thought so when trying to find a power mirror fuse!

                    Check fuse with a multimeter rather than by eye. Or just replace with a new one.
                    Alex: TheGernamGuy vehicle is probably a Left Hand Drive vehicle. The fuse panel is probably still there, but he may be misled on other matters.

                    TheGermanGuy: Adjusting the front torsion bars means re-setting the height. You can replace the bars if you wish, but if you are only chasing different ride height, then you simply wind up the torsion bars. If you run out of adjustment, you can remove the lever from the end of the bar and reset it one notch further around. You only need to replace the bars if you want to change the spring rates (stiffen the suspension).

                    Comment

                    • Alex86
                      Valued Member
                      • Jul 2007
                      • 2416
                      • Here and there

                      #11
                      Ah yes LHD.... if the fuse box isn’t where I said it is, try mirror image position on the left side!
                      '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
                      Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

                      '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

                      Wanted: Adventure.

                      Comment

                      • TheGermanGuy
                        Junior Member
                        • Feb 2019
                        • 7
                        • Germany

                        #12
                        Well you guys were right! It was a fuse, and the fuse box I was looking for was under the steering column above the foot rest. It was just burnt out, lucky I had some extra fuses. So now my mirrors and my lighter work just fine. Thanks a lot and good looking out!

                        Comment

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