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perhaps the sump or block has a hairline crack? is it leaking from the back or middle of the sump?
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The head gasket could have a split in it and letting oil out of one of the galleries1983 NA SWB with a 4d56t, running 14psi through a custom water to air intercooler, 2.5in turbo back exhaust, Kinugawa adjustable wastegate, Boost and EGT gauges, Snorkel, Provent Catch Can, Manual Hub conversion, 40mm EFS lift, ARB Bullbar, Aluminium roof rack, awning, 31'' BF-G KO2's on 15x8 -23 steelies, Factory Flares, 41" light bar on the roof, lightforce strikers up front, and a set of much needed cup holders
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Take both bash plates off and de grease the motor and driveway! start car, leave it run for a while or go for a slow drive! and park once again over night with plates still off!
And then you might get a better idea of where the drip is comming from! without the bash plates pooling and dripping oil in another location.
Cheers.Comment
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cleaned out the breathers and have installed a catch can so i dont think it can be that?Originally posted by pajeroman3lt View Post
I dont think its a crack anywhere, its leaking from the front of the sump; its not one of the seals behind the timing cover as everything in there is dry.Originally posted by Shifty View Post
theres no oil or leaks coming from higher above the sump gasket....Originally posted by TheBanana View Post
Originally posted by Roughasguts View Post
the leak is at the front of the sump..... maybe the sump itself is bent or warped and hence why its not sealing properly there?
Should also mention, I had a compression test done and the engine is in great shape. Turbo is also OK, although a rebuild wouldnt be a bad idea.G5R5OL = CD5A/CE9A/E39A Bastard Child
Daily = 2006 NP Pajero VR-X DiDComment
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Are the sump bolts over-tight? Ive done this in the past on a L28, and it warped so much I had to re-install the whole thing after straightening it out for a few hours.
Cork gaskets and sealant made for a 'flexible' seal, Im pretty sure the sump and block don't expand at the same rate either... so once warm, no leak. Cold.. it would leak.Comment
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Throw some tracer dye in there and degrease the engine down.
Take it for a slow drive for 10-15 minutes without exceeding 50km/hr and let it rest for a couple hours.
Grab a uv torch or uv lamp off ebay and go at it.
Does sound like it's warped or something along those lines at the front of the sump.
The uv dye will pin point it's exact location for you much easier then checking for weep spots.
Another option is to tape paper towel over the supected area or throw talc powder all over it. These options also help. They require a clean and completely dry surface to be ideal though.97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback HeadersComment
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97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback HeadersComment
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i feel the cure for this leakage problem other than buy another sump pan is to apply a thicker bead of silicon which will assist in the seal of a not to true surface . the method is to apply the sealant bead to sump so its approx 5 mm thick and leave it skin up for a good 2 hours then fit the sump and evenly tension all bolts by hand pressure snug and leave for another 1 x hour before you apply more even tension by hand snug . leave this until the next day and tension down all bolts in a diagonal criss cross fashion [ like tensioning down a cylinder head ] don,t over tension , just make sure all bolts are very snug and the gap between the sump pan and block base is around 2mm . re check all bolts in 1 x week . my favoured sealant is Black Silastic which is also high temp rated plus oil proof.NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.Comment
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just wondering if flange gasket sealer would fix the problemComment
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Looks like a bent sump, but I would expect it to seal with enough sealant on it. I would reccomend sicoflex too, but it will be a real swine to get off if it doesn't seal that time. Any sumps at local wreckers?
1988 NF V6 superwagon, 2 Inch suspension lift, 31 inch AT's, AM & UHF radio, twin HID 7inch driving lights, 20 inch LED light bar, Reese rear tow bar, Ally bull bar, Tigerz 11 Roof cage and awning complete with LED's and remote dimmer, LED side marker lights on the sills, 2 rear 10w LED work lights, Rear view camera. Bluetooth radio for hands free phone. 1200Lbs winchComment
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Yep I reckon a bent sump might be the cause... but its a little wierd, i havent bashed it on anything ever and this leak just appeared out of nowhere really....
ill have to go sump hunting.G5R5OL = CD5A/CE9A/E39A Bastard Child
Daily = 2006 NP Pajero VR-X DiDComment
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The Threebond goo is supposedly very good stuff, with the benefit that you don't have to let it skin over before assembly. Just a thought.2012 PB Challenger LS ManualComment
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which one are you talking about? theres a few different onesOriginally posted by Kingbrown View PostG5R5OL = CD5A/CE9A/E39A Bastard Child
Daily = 2006 NP Pajero VR-X DiDComment
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The 1207C was recommended in another post (use the Search feature).
2012 PB Challenger LS ManualComment
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