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**Pauly Faulkner** · 01-10-12, 01:21 PM

Take off the right or left hand top timing cover, the marks are on the alternator mount and one on the rear timing cover(metal) onthe passenger side.
The passenger Side cam TDC mark is pretty much at 12o'clock.

Rotor button faces the centre line of firewall, if it points to passenger or driver then it's out 1tooth, you can look under the dizzy cap also and find contact for no.1 cyl right next to the rear dizzy screw.

P.s even with TDC angle marks on the crank pulley you still need cam TDC as the crank does 2revs per cam rev and as such there is 2crank TDC positions so to speak.

**TimTams** · 01-10-12, 03:01 PM

I tried what you said Pauly but still no go. I think I might have another issue elsewhere, but it seems to have a good spark, the injectors and their wiring is all new, fuel pressure is good, pump is new, gaskets are all new, battery is new, starter motor is reco, sensors and wiring are new, all the vacuum lines are connected up, spark plugs are in good nick, heads/valves are all reconditioned....

what else can I check besides a compression check, which i'll do soon?

**Pauly Faulkner** · 01-10-12, 05:04 PM

Do you have a timing gun to see if it's actually firing at 5degree BTDC? you'd have to remove all plugs to get enough rpm from the starter and the timing plug needs to be earthed(you also need the TDC mark next the crank pulley on the lower timing cover)

Was it running before top end rebuild? Should at least get a cough or fart with poor compression anyways.
If you've had fuel rail apart then the rail/line may have air still in it, I usually leave the plugs out and crank until you smell fuel.
You can also try disconnecting the injector plug and checking the earth wire on harness side has continuity to earth and that each injector wire is attached to it's correct injector(use wiring diagram colours to check)

**TimTams** · 03-10-12, 09:43 PM

Originally posted by Pauly Faulkner View Post

Do you have a timing gun to see if it's actually firing at 5degree BTDC? you'd have to remove all plugs to get enough rpm from the starter and the timing plug needs to be earthed(you also need the TDC mark next the crank pulley on the lower timing cover)

Was it running before top end rebuild? Should at least get a cough or fart with poor compression anyways.
If you've had fuel rail apart then the rail/line may have air still in it, I usually leave the plugs out and crank until you smell fuel.
You can also try disconnecting the injector plug and checking the earth wire on harness side has continuity to earth and that each injector wire is attached to it's correct injector(use wiring diagram colours to check)

HI pauly thanks for the tips. Nah I don't have a timing gun or anything fancy. I got it to start thanks to your info about which way it's supposed to face though. It won't start easily though and runs like a dog so I think there is something else wrong. /sigh I'll keep looking hopefully it starts going properly soon... I'm ready to scrap it

There is also a knock/clunk sound when it runs. Since I swapped the heads over it must be something to do with the bottom end. I've just swapped the crank out so I guess I have no choice but to pull it out and whip the sump off again... Maybe I missed a big end cap when torquing the bolts

Cheers

**Pauly Faulkner** · 03-10-12, 10:49 PM

Where about in newy are you? i can pop down with my timing gun and get it set for ya.....you'll just have to make sure there's coffee

So you changed the crank just now or was it in before you did the head swap?

**jack n rory** · 03-10-12, 11:59 PM

If you did have air in the rail can you bleed it somehow. I am having similar problems.

Thanks,
Shane.
Ps i am not trying to hijack just an interested onlooker.

**Pauly Faulkner** · 04-10-12, 12:27 AM

Will bleed itself within 30secs of pump turning on, it's on first start that it can be hard to start if it's been disassembled or leaking.

If plugs are already in then you just run a wire from battery positive to fuel pump check plug that's next to the timing earth plug on the firewall, if you can't find it then disconnect starter motor remote wire(the only small wire on the starter motor) and hold key on start position for 20seconds.

**jack n rory** · 04-10-12, 12:45 AM

Thanks for that. Did the heads a while back and just cant get it to run right. Takes a bit of cranking to start and runs rough. I have set the timing with a light. I think i am getting air in somewhere but just cant figure out where.

Thanks,
Shane.

**Pauly Faulkner** · 04-10-12, 01:29 AM

If it idles like crap then probably is vacuum leak.
Did you connect all hoses back up properly?
Might need to take plenum off, put new gasket in and use RTV to make sure it's snug and sealed to rule it out.

**TimTams** · 04-10-12, 10:09 AM

Hi Pauly,

Would really appreciate a hand!! I have a jar of Blend 43 that's all yours... I'm in Wallsend, right next to the Racecourse Hotel. When do you reckon you'd be able to drop down?

Cheers
Tim

**Pauly Faulkner** · 04-10-12, 10:25 AM

Sometime Saturday, before lunch most likely.
Pm your number and I'll phone ahead

**TimTams** · 05-10-12, 09:33 AM

I've got it running, it's not perfect but will idle, rev and sounds more or less like a proper running engine! I think a couple of spark plugs are damaged and I reused the head gaskets (had only been on for a couple of days, but still tore when I removed them) so I have a bit of work to do before expecting it to run 100%. Still, cheers for the help all

I'm glad it finally works!

I still have a horrible knocking noise like a loose bottom end cap or something but I suspect it may be the flywheel hitting the sheet metal cover over the bell housing. I may have stretched it when I used it with my engine crane to remove the sump... long story... I have to take the gearbox out to get it repaired so I'll check it out then. If it's not the sheet metal, well I'll have already done half the work to remove the motor again

**Pauly Faulkner** · 05-10-12, 12:12 PM

The adaptor plate, they bend easy, but the gearbox to bellhousing bolts go through it so i don't think it would be that, especially if it's a type of knock

**TimTams** · 05-10-12, 12:21 PM

Originally posted by Pauly Faulkner View Post

The adaptor plate, they bend easy, but the gearbox to bellhousing bolts go through it so i don't think it would be that, especially if it's a type of knock

Yeah the bottom bellhousing bolts don't go through

I know I stretched it a bit but like I said I'll have to check if it's touching the flywheel when I get the gearbox off, otherwise it's sump removal time

It DOES sound like the flywheel touching but the sound transmits through the whole engine and gearbox so I can't really narrow it down. Way too loud to dare try using a stethoscope on as well

EDIT: i have a spare adaptor plate. So not a big deal, I'll just have to straighten it a bit

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