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I've broken a coil spring in Mongolia

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  • Scouter1
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2013
    • 899
    • Sydney NSW

    #31
    Originally posted by kiwi1973 View Post
    How would some wire twisted tightly around it with pliers go?
    The airbag lines run a relatively low pressure, you could probably get away with taping the tube then putting a small hose clip over it to hold it securely. I have successfully used this method in the past for temporary repairs on low pressure pneumatic hoses.

    Good luck with your onwards journey.

    Cheers,
    Stephen
    2011 Silver NT GLS DiD Auto with extra bits - build thread http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=36099

    Comment

    • old Jack
      Regular
      • Jun 2011
      • 11606
      • Adelaide, South Australia.

      #32
      Originally posted by kiwi1973 View Post
      The airbags are ok. I discovered that the leak was caused by a hole in the tubing just before where it goes onto the barb. It would be easy to cut it back and reattach, but I don't have any of the little clamps/crimps. How would some wire twisted tightly around it with pliers go? I did the best temp repair I could to the tube, mindful that this side has to come out again when I replace the stuffed inner lower control arm bush soon. I actually also need new spring seats really.

      I've not inflated the airbags, so my initial impressions are of the springs alone. I haven't really given them a full test yet - just been around the block a couple of times, but some of the roads here resemble a 4wd track anywhere else, so it's still a test. It may be that I don't really need the bags at all now, or if I do then at low pressure. I'll see for now how it goes with just the springs.

      Hi Aaron,

      I seem to recall that airbags must be inflated to a minimum of 5psi all the time to prevent damage. Wrapping wire around the tube twice then twisting it tight with pliers will be fine as a clamp replacement.

      OJ.
      2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
      MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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      • benckj
        Valued Member
        • Oct 2017
        • 517
        • Alexandra , New Zealand

        #33
        Yep, I've done the wire trick a number of times with great success. Always double it up before wrapping around and then twisting. This always seems to have the greatest holding pressure.

        Comment

        • rgrubby
          Valued Member
          • Apr 2018
          • 623
          • Wellington - NZ

          #34
          I'm glad you got your new springs sorted, what a stress that must have been. I'm following your adventure with great interest, thanks for sharing it.
          Originally posted by kiwi1973 View Post
          we know of only two coil spring failures on Pajeros - in both cases KCRR35HD-SP.
          For what it's worth, I was speaking to another NS Pajero owner two days ago who had a rear spring break. It was the original Mitsubishi spring at about 140,000km (I think). I don't know the circumstances of the break as it was picked up during an inspection (not sure if WOF or service). It broke near the top, so he hadn't noticed it.

          Looking forward to more updates
          2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Kaon and ASFIR bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

          Comment

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