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Just to confirm. Service books says 15 000kms between oil changes?
Is it because oil technology has changed we can go from 10 000kms to 15 000kms?
mitsi have been 15k km for several years .... some other makes are even longer intervals ...
as a general rule it's usually kms or 12 months ... (seems though Toyota have still some vehicles with 6 month intervals or 10k km) don't ask me why ...
Also the use of full synthetic does help with longevity of oil viscosity ...
NB under certain conditions of stop - start short distance driving a 6 month or 7.5k km would be recommended or dusty conditions ... (as per recommended in service manual) ....
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2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap
Just not use to the idea coming from a dirty patrol td42ti that was meant to be done every 5000km!
Gosh. I cant imagine some companies even longer. Not use to that!
Okay so If I changed oil at 205 000kms. Honestly no issue going to 220 000km?
Just keep your eye on the oil level as the km's are getting up there ... @ 10k km I would say you may have to add approx 1/2 ltr of engine oil ... or if you feel the condition of the oil is not to your liking just change it ...
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2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap
I'm a salesperson by job so this is just purely that coming out in me & I guess hanging around diesel machinery for many years as well.
In my personal opinion the "sales tool" which is extended oil changes which is a headline advertisement & lowers the cost of ownership or if you like it is best case scenario length of time oil should be left before changed etc.
Read the fine print of the service schedule on any engine & you'll find the truth.
Probably should be written the other way around, if it wasn't sales tool orientated?
Depends on how the engine is being used, under load halve it, stop start & around town halve it, high ambient temps halve it etc etc.
Long easy runs & the use of the recommended spec oils which these days are high spec synthetics generally, there is absolutley no problem following the "best case scenario" recommendations.
But in saying that it depends on how long you want to keep it? Irrelevent if you trade it often?
Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table
The best synthetic oil in the world won't stop contamination .
I put in whatever is on special and change around 7500kms , but don't panic if I can't get around to changing before 10,000 .
As stated , 15,000kms is a marketing tool . If you expect to keep the car , frequent oil changes are relatively cheap if you do them yourself .
The best synthetic oil in the world won't stop contamination .
I put in whatever is on special and change around 7500kms , but don't panic if I can't get around to changing before 10,000 .
As stated , 15,000kms is a marketing tool . If you expect to keep the car , frequent oil changes are relatively cheap if you do them yourself .
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
You are right. Thank god the pajero so easy to change. Sump bolt and filter both on the bottom
plus my two inch lift . I dont even need a jack to get underneath
Has anyone done an oil sample analysis after 10 000kms?
Yes. I did the NX at 10K. Penrite HPR D10. It was fine. I need to do a 15K change and get UOA done again to see the difference. It proved to me changing at 7.5K was not just environmentally unfriendly, but I was throwing bags of money away.
On my NP, this was a different story. Penrite HPR D15. At 7.5K the oil had lost 30% of its starting viscosity and was flagged at a caution. I even provided virgin oil to prove the viscosity reduction they discovered was correct. Either the viscosity improver was breaking down early or I was using the wrong oil. I stayed with the D15 and 7.5K changes.
Everyone can give you the best advice in the world, myself included. It means nothing. Spend $50, get UOA done and get the facts. The cost of half an oil change, you will start to save by your second change and have the facts to play with.
As stated , 15,000kms is a marketing tool . If you expect to keep the car , frequent oil changes are relatively cheap if you do them yourself .
I see this argument a lot. How many clapped out old engines requiring a rebuild do you know of? Sure, I don't disagree that old oil creates wear, but honestly, how many engines do you know of that need a rebuild before end of life of the vehicle? And how does 15K changes affect that?
Spend $50 on UOA and you may just be able to run to 15K intervals on the right oils. How would you know otherwise? There is a lot of old wives tales getting around.
Perhaps you are right .
500,000kms on my old Delica without any issues , still not requiring top ups before I crashed it to a premature death.
Oil viscosity maybe fine at 15000kms , it's still the contamination that has me changing at early intervals
The biggest improvement (visually) to contamination in the oil I have seen was from restricting the operation of the egr.
This was just noticed from checking dipstick oil between my fingers and also putting a drop of it on white paper and seeing how it spread out. But that doesnt take into account breakdown of additives and is not really a technical measure of how good the oil still is.
Although the older engine in the triton with over 420,000kms on it and no egr from factory the oil is black as soon as you pour it in basically. I would imagine piston rings and valve seals would be allowing more combustion soot passed and mixing with the oil there.
That is one of the reasons why it gets oil changed every 5000km and the pajero is every 15,000kms when used "normally". 10,000km when used normally by my definition though.
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