Super Select 2 transfer case switches

[sootyNT]

Thanks for that extra info Geoff.

So, just so I don't screw things up.......

12v positive to switch terminal 1

Switch terminal 2 to light wire one

Light wire 2 to 12V negative - thus creating a loop.

If I use a 12v lantern battery and a 21w indicator globe I should be right?

[sootyNT]

Also, just in case this does not work,

Can anyone confirm the part numbers for the gen 4 transfer case switches are the ones listed above?

Cheers

[lunnmj]

sootyNT

You can get to the switch wires without dropping the back of the box.
The plugs sit on the side of the box. disconnect them and put a loop through the switch and you may have to select 4x4 to operate some of the switches as they on all made in 2wd.

I took a 12v car battery and a headlight bulb. Operated switches a few times. Worked well.

I just have the problem now that I engage 4wd all lights go green on dash no problem, but the moment I pull away the orange diff light starts to flash.
No one seem to be able to give advice.

Good luck.

[nj swb]

I just have the problem now that I engage 4wd all lights go green on dash no problem, but the moment I pull away the orange diff light starts to flash.
No one seem to be able to give advice.

At a guess, probably one of the speed sensors. They send a pulse proportional to vehicle speed, so they're all constant output while the vehicle is stationary. As soon as you move, they should all start pulsing. If one doesn't pulse, that's not a good sign to the ECU.

How many plugs did you do your "clean" to?

[lunnmj]

Hi njswb

The three on the left of the box.
Where do these speed sensors sit and how do I test them ?

[DRNR]

NT Transfer case switch photos

Hi all,
Have always found this forum a great source of information and help. So after experiencing the flashing centre diff light I came across this thread and decided to remove the switches, clean them and reinstall the original switches. Is a NT LWB Auto. It was serviced by MM who told me it threw a code C1456-55411TF Position SW3 and needed two transfer case switches changed.

I removed the three switches on passenger side and found two switches which tested poorly on a multi meter. At this point I decided to do the other two which sit behind the first row of three. Glad I did as the last one I removed (4LLC) also tested poorly. I simply drowned them in WD40 and flicked the switch quite a few times, then held the plunger with some pliers and spun it while pulling it "out". Sprayed some electrical contact grease into them and all tested perfectly. Reassembled and the Super Select is running as it should.
I can confirm that you need a 22mm spanner.
Be careful of the washers as they stayed it on top of the transfer case. You will to fish them out to reassemble.
The switch wires are held in place by some soft metal retainers, just feel along the wire until you find them and unfold them to release the wire.
I have also attached a photo of a switch I prepped using a rubber band to gather the wire which made winding it back in a lot easier.
There is also a photo showing the location of the two connectors for the inboard row of two switches. This is top drivers side rear of the transfer case
I was lucky to have access to a hoist which made this job quite easy. It would be more of an effort rolling around underneath whilst on the ground and you would probably do more by feel but still achievable.

[Dongskie2]

Question:

If one of the wire gets cut/disconnected, will all the light go out? Coz I found one wire cut

Mine has no lights at all, checked all bulbs and replaced with new ones and still none.

[flvj]

Separate centre diff

Has anyone tried to add a separate stick shift for the centre differential activation and deactivation using the quoted documentation?

Lately I've been spending some time browsing the online service manuals hosted by the Russian 4wd club. Thanks to a reminder from m_and_m that there is also a Technical Manual, I found a nice description, complete with diagrams, of the different modes and which switch should be open or closed in which mode.

I decided to turn it into something I could print for future reference, and along the way, thought it might also be handy to others - so here it is:


From http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...2/index_M2.htm

A PDF for printing is also attached, for those so inclined.

[nj swb]

Has anyone tried to add a separate stick shift for the centre differential activation and deactivation using the quoted documentation?

I've had a couple of transfers apart, and it wouldn't be a simple job - not as simple as in the Prado. The way they have one motor do all the selection makes it complicated to separate the functions. The mechanism that locks / unlocks the centre diff has four positions. From 2H through to 4LLc, the mechanism continues to move the same direction, and the four states are locked, unlocked, locked & locked.

4L (unlocked) isn't a trivial solution.

[Motero]

If you get too fed up with the flashing lights and have an early gen 3 without traction control you can swap the super select transfer case for a manual one. (atleast in America)

[rgrubby]

I replaced the 5 transfer switches on mine today.
I used the following helpful threads for a starting point...

https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum/general-information/photos-you-and-your-rig/34378-my-nt-platinum/page14#post1134164

https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum/general-information/mechanical/56225-diy-transfer-case-switch-replacement-orange-cd-light-flashing?t=54872

And this was helpful to confirm the issue

https://www.pajero.guru/how-to-read-check-engine-light-without-scanner-3-2-di-d/

Some lessons and hints:
I tried to complete this without disconnecting the rear prop shaft, but I couldn't lower the transfer enough to remove the switches, so I did have to disconnect the shaft.
.
A mirror is a must. I used a mirror from a toiletry bag held with a cellphone mount magnet designed to grip onto a vent. Funny the things you find a round the house.

I cleaned the transfer switches with an old toothbrush and dish washing liquid, a couple of metal picks, and a tube attached to an air compressor blow gun.

I used three different ring spanners. I would have used more if I had them. The row of three switches needed the two "normal" spanners with different angled heads. Also having the teeth in different positions across two spanners helped when there wasn't much space to turn it.
The other two switches needed the offset spanner.
It probably would have been easier to remove all three switches to allow more clearance around the harder ones, but then I would likely have put the new ones in the wrong places.

Another useful trick in case you get stuck in low range and have to drive on the road. If you reverse the two vacuum hoses down at the front diff you can disengage the freewheel clutch. I was figuring this out when my transfer error stopped and I was able to get back into high range after spending most the day offroad with the transfer error.



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