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Old 04-08-13
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Cool Did my valve clearances today.

Well I finally got around to adjusting the valve clearances on my PJ.
A lot of talk around here on how hard it would be and also if I myself could do it.

Tools I needed
1/2" Socket set, Spanners, pliers, screwdrivers, a good torch and a set of decent feeler gauges.
Don't get $5 cheapies. Spend the big bucks. I got a good set for $17.

Well here we go...........



First up remove the battery and black engine cover. If you cannot do this stop here and pay someone.

Should now look like this.



Then take all this stuff off.



Should look like this




Line up number one TDC



Adjust these ones. 0.15mm exhaust and 0.1mm intake
My setup for adjusting. Not perfect but it worked. Torque of nut was adjusted proberly.
This look the goods though.





Then turn the crank 180 degrees and adjust these ones



When your done put it back together and start it up.

Must say made a huge difference. Motor is quieter. A lot quieter. No clacking.

Amazing what 0.03mm can do.
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Last edited by Goodsy; 04-08-13 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 04-08-13
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Job Well Done
Was it as easy as you thought
Really love your pics, easy for others to follow
Regards Peter
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Old 04-08-13
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Was going to put a few more in but "take all this stuff off" covers a lot.
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Old 05-08-13
Shifty Shifty is offline
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good job, and helpful pics, how long did it roughly take you? i really should adjust them on mine, and probably replace the r/cover gasket and chain guide while im there.
does the engine have to be at operating temperature when you adjusted the valve clearances or can i just take it for a quick spin round the block?
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Old 05-08-13
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Well done Goodsy, Thanks for the info and photos.
Would be nice to see more step by step DIY jobs on this site.
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Old 05-08-13
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For someone not in a hurry that has never done it before it took about 6 hours.

Mind you this was taking it easy and being very methodical. If I had to do it again I reckon I could get it down to 4-5 hours.

You could get a non common rail done in half the time again.
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Old 05-08-13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shifty View Post
does the engine have to be at operating temperature when you adjusted the valve clearances or can i just take it for a quick spin round the block?
Engine needs to be cold when adjusting tappets.
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Old 05-08-13
Greg Grey Grumbly Greg Grey Grumbly is offline
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Default Great Write Up!

Great write up Goodsy, pictures are very helpful.

A couple of questions to make it absolutely clear to me:
  • you write turn crank 180deg, wouldn't it be 360deg to pick up the TDC mark on the pulley for the second adjustment set?
  • from your photos you have used the RH Cam retaining nut to turn the engine over - can you confirm this as I would normally tend to use the lower crank pulley nut to do this - your way would be way easier for access
Finally, I have always worried about the tappet adjustment locknut losing torque and backing off - mind you I've never heard of this happening. But for this reason I would want to use loctite on the adjustment nut - any thoughts/experience from you or others.

Again, great write up!

Greg
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Old 05-08-13
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Hi Greg. Yes I used the cam bolt to turn the motor over. I did it very slowly and only with a 1/2" ratchet to limit torque I could apply. If you don't rush it the motor turns over quite easily.
There is a second notch on the crank for no. 4 TDC but not on the cam so you know where you are.
The lock nuts are only tightened to 10Nm +-1 and were very easy to undo.
But they are soft so lock up well at that torque.


Hope that helps.
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Old 05-08-13
Greg Grey Grumbly Greg Grey Grumbly is offline
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Thanks Goodsy, I thought there could be a second mark but I can't remember ever having seen one on engines I've played with.

I think I'll put a drop of loctite on the nuts for peace of mind. Again, great write up, I've printed it out for future reference.

Greg
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