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PB -PC Challenger 2009 - 2014 Covering 2.5 HP diesel

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  #421  
Old 22-03-20
Kiwi downunder Kiwi downunder is offline
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Thumbs down MMA looking really bad!

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Originally Posted by Kiwi downunder View Post
OK I phoned dealer and I asked what the real code was from yesterday, as I can see P codes (nothing on my scan tool) and its an engine immobilise code nothing to do with SRS.
I said it should be a B code......
Wiring harness should be under warranty.... MMA said cars outside of, so I said its still under drive train, i'm first owner, its a safety issue you know about and haven't recalled, and as per ACCC rules should last the life of the car i.e. the first ownership..... MMA said they would put in a claim for me.
And so they &^%$#@# should!

MMA called back and apologised that the tech read the code as P1610, they had to go back into the MUT unit (I guess) took another look and low and behold it was a B1610 code, your correct sir.

OK so the question is... if they read it as a P code, then they would have scratched their heads as an engine immobilise has nothing to do with the SRS system, yet they said the SRS harnesses top and bottom needed replacing from the said diagnostics at $785, what did they really do for the $65 diagnostics???

I'm thinking that this fault is so common its the first thing they do regardless! Or they are so full of $#%&, and are just out to rip you off, as i'm not convinced they even know what my problem is! Just get me to pay, go away, back pay some more until rule of elimination is played out.... shame on you MMA
Update 22/03/2020: Pulled everything appart and I have just tested my passenger seat belt pre-tensioner circuit (Supposed Error code B1610 given my MMA) and all tested ok! 2.3 ohms back to the SRS -ECU plug (no open circuit)..... now I'm really begging to wonder if they even plugged in the MUT for a code read at all.
This smells like its got $%#^ all over it from MMA.....
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  #422  
Old 22-03-20
DibbyDibbyDJ DibbyDibbyDJ is offline
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It will be an intermittant code. They can stay active, but very rarely. And the connection issue will be at the SRS-ECU plug. The pins will be slightly smaller than the sockets.



Was the light out when you got the car back?
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  #423  
Old 22-03-20
Kiwi downunder Kiwi downunder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DibbyDibbyDJ View Post
It will be an intermittant code. They can stay active, but very rarely. And the connection issue will be at the SRS-ECU plug. The pins will be slightly smaller than the sockets.



Was the light out when you got the car back?
No It wasnt out.... not sure if they even tried to reset it...said they did.
I would have thought light would go out if circuit good, just keep fault in memory, but Ive tested it and the SRS warning lamp is still up... hence me thinking they gave me a bogus code.
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  #424  
Old 22-03-20
Kingbrown Kingbrown is offline
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Presumably your test involved unplugging the wiring at each end (otherwise you may not have lived to tell the tale).

When any plug is disconnected, the pin connection swaps over to another set of contacts within the plug and a short is automatically applied across the squib side of the connectors. Your measurements will be measuring the continuity through that alternate set of contacts rather than those that are used between the ecu and the field device.

I believe there is also separate circuitry that checks to ensure the plug(s) are inserted properly.

It's a complex system with many many connections so little wonder that faults appear.
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  #425  
Old 22-03-20
DibbyDibbyDJ DibbyDibbyDJ is offline
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No, if fault happens and goes straight away fault is stored and light stays on. It is designed that way. We normally read codes and wiggle connectors and recheck if fault disappears, so we can show customer its correct.


It isn t hard to replace harnesses. If you are handy with a spanner you will be ok. You would need to get code cleared afterwards though.


Whats involved?


DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!!!!



Remove front seats.
Remove floor console.
Remove front floor trims and b post trims
Remove A post trims
Remove sunvisors and roof lights.
Drop down front of headlining



floor harnesses can be ran alongside original seat connectors. You can cut them off, or leave them in if you are unsure, but where harnesses clip to floor you will have to use these. All harnesses come with clips.


Roof harness goes from left curtain bag, across roof to right curtain bag and down right A pillar to a connector behind dash. Fiddly to get to, but not impossible, no dash removal required. And a couple of connectors to the junction box.
The harness comes with wiring for both sets of interior lights, and roof clock if you have one. ( must order harnesses to your VIN )


Curtain bags need unbolting to fit harness to inflators.


I have done quite a few sets of these so can knock them out in about 3 hours, but first set probably took me 5 or six to do. So expect to keep a day clear.
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Last edited by DibbyDibbyDJ; 22-03-20 at 04:39 PM.
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  #426  
Old 22-03-20
Kiwi downunder Kiwi downunder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbrown View Post
Presumably your test involved unplugging the wiring at each end (otherwise you may not have lived to tell the tale).

When any plug is disconnected, the pin connection swaps over to another set of contacts within the plug and a short is automatically applied across the squib side of the connectors. Your measurements will be measuring the continuity through that alternate set of contacts rather than those that are used between the ecu and the field device.

I believe there is also separate circuitry that checks to ensure the plug(s) are inserted properly.

It's a complex system with many many connections so little wonder that faults appear.
Yes I disconnected battery, pulled plugs & removed shorting links at SRS ECU plug (cable tie). Measured the circuit leg by leg and with Seat belt tensioner in circuit (approx 1mA max current) all good. So without a code tool I cannot tell if it would clear now.

Just waiting on the good will claim to see if the harnesses will be replaced, otherwise off to ebay I go.
Foxwell NT630 Elite CANBus reader....

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Foxwell-...t/193227870054
Then continue from there.
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  #427  
Old 06-04-20
Kiwi downunder Kiwi downunder is offline
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Thumbs up Yep as expected

Got my Foxwell NT630plus CANBus tool today.
Quick update on the internet and then down to the garage.

As expected I got a B1610 error code...pushed 'reset' and it cleared OK, which matched all my testing.
Now to put the car all back together over the next few days.

The question is.... will it come back?

Last edited by Kiwi downunder; 06-04-20 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Error to fix
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  #428  
Old 06-04-20
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littleriver littleriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi downunder View Post
Got my Foxwell NT630plus CANBus tool today.
Quick update on the internet and then down to the garage.

As expected I got a B1610 error code...pushed 'reset' and it cleared OK, which matched all my testing.
Now to put the car all back together over the next few days.

The question is.... will it come back?
It will come back ...

As mentioned previously push for the wiring harness loom to be replaced as many of us have had it done ..

FYI

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lh7VZc...ature=youtu.be



...
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  #429  
Old 16-04-20
mitsa mitsa is offline
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Default Airbag light

Reading on with interest as my airbag light came on recently - went to local mitsubishi dealer & got charged $150 for a 10 minute scan which showed squib fault - waps told then $1200 to replace the harness. Left the dealer with light still on - got home & wrote email to Mitsubishi as I'm only owner & believe it's a safety fault - got reply saying out of warranty so have to pay to replace it.
My scan tool states same issue as mitsubishi told me but am not sure if I should attempt it - does anyone know any mechanics around Brisbane that could do it properly & cheaper

Thanks
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  #430  
Old 16-04-20
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littleriver littleriver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitsa View Post
Reading on with interest as my airbag light came on recently - went to local mitsubishi dealer & got charged $150 for a 10 minute scan which showed squib fault - waps told then $1200 to replace the harness. Left the dealer with light still on - got home & wrote email to Mitsubishi as I'm only owner & believe it's a safety fault - got reply saying out of warranty so have to pay to replace it.
My scan tool states same issue as mitsubishi told me but am not sure if I should attempt it - does anyone know any mechanics around Brisbane that could do it properly & cheaper

Thanks
Sad to hear .... . .. I believe that the consumer law covers to 10 yrs or 500k km ....

So it seems MMA is only replacing under goodwill to the newer vehicles ...

By memory the harness is at a cost of approx $570 ...

....
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