Buying used pajero 3.2 (manual trans)

[BJPK]

Hi Gents.

Im looking to buy a pajero as my daily driver/weekend tow car

Ideally i would like an auto but we have had a 06 base model glx 3.2 manual trans traded at my work. The best bit about it is its only done 170k with a full history and should be able to get it for under 10k.

Now ive read up on the manuals and have seen a few catostophic failures and a few were they just pop out of first gear?

Ive driven the car for a week now and it shifts smmothly and doesn't pop out of first.

Those who own a manual what have your experiences been? Is it inevitable that it will fail at some stage and should i just look for an auto instead?

[erad]

The fuel pumps fail sometime on the NM, NP models. Expensive, and I don't know if any precautions can be taken to avoid them. I would suggest to use an additive to prevent algae buildup in the system, and also to soak up any water condensation. Later model (common rail) diesels apparently don't have the pump problems (at least I hope so), but when they fail, things like injectors are incredibly expensive.

As for manual transmissions, I have not heard of jumping out of first gear, or any other problems. I think they are fairly strong (again, I hope so, because my NW diesel is putting out a lot more torque than the NM, NP models). I have only done 109000 km, and nearly all of that in 5th gear at 100 km/h, so the transmission hasn't had a solid workout, but when I have used it hard (eg towing my caravan up really steep hills), it has shown no signs of distress. That is when you are putting maximum torque through the system and that is when you are likely to break something if it is going to let go.

[BJPK]

The fuel pumps fail sometime on the NM, NP models. Expensive, and I don't know if any precautions can be taken to avoid them. I would suggest to use an additive to prevent algae buildup in the system, and also to soak up any water condensation. Later model (common rail) diesels apparently don't have the pump problems (at least I hope so), but when they fail, things like injectors are incredibly expensive.

As for manual transmissions, I have not heard of jumping out of first gear, or any other problems. I think they are fairly strong (again, I hope so, because my NW diesel is putting out a lot more torque than the NM, NP models). I have only done 109000 km, and nearly all of that in 5th gear at 100 km/h, so the transmission hasn't had a solid workout, but when I have used it hard (eg towing my caravan up really steep hills), it has shown no signs of distress. That is when you are putting maximum torque through the system and that is when you are likely to break something if it is going to let go.

Cheers for the advice. Would prefer a later nt onwards but with wifey already in a late model suv it needs to be cheap. And worst case if it does a pump itl still come out at under the price of a nt with 200ks.

Anyone else have experience with the manual trans in these?

[nj swb]

Anyone else have experience with the manual trans in these?

It's the V5M31 transmission, introduced in the NJ in 1993, and (to the best of my knowledge) used in the Gen 4 until Mitsubishi Motors Australia stopped selling manuals.

The slightly smaller V5MT1 behind the 3 litre V6 had some issues with synchros, some of which were replaced under warranty. It's not uncommon for that box to be notchy when cold, and very fussy about the oil used - but I'm not aware that the V5M31 has the same issues.

I'm sure some of our members have had some problems, but I'm not aware of anything systemic to be concerned about.

[erad]

I had a NL Pajero, bought new in 2000. It had the manual gearbox, and I was told that they had to raise the body mounts in order to fit the newer transmission, so maybe the NL was the first model to use this box. Minor detail... My NL had a noise coming from the gearbox at idle, in neutral when the whole thing was hot. Naturally I reported it to several dealers, who said it was 'normal'. I wasn't happy with the responses, so ultimately I contacted Mitsubishi direct. I also had a problem with a shuddering clutch (when hot). They sent a rep out to our house and of course the car hadn't been started for nearly a week, so no way was it going to rumble or shudder at me. However, when I described the symptoms, the rep agreed with me and gave me an extended warranty which I could use should the shudder and the noise get worse. At 235000 km, I traded the car in on a new NW Pajero and those noises were still there, but no worse, so maybe slight noise is normal.

[anycolourfloyd]

Got mine 2nd hand at 266K, at 316K now with no issues in the gearbox or clutch, it's really nice to drive. I have had issues with the transfer case but that's another (common) story.

Pretty sure gearbox is original, clutch was replaced prior to me. I'm not towing anything.

[HeavyPizzaz]

Based on what you read the Jatco autos will fail at 250,000km anyway so manual vs auto future problems? Flip a coin.

[hinsch]

I had a 2006 NP manual and it had 300,000km+, a little bit of towing a camper 1900kg and a 6.2m alli boat no problems with it at all, serviced every 10,000km all the filters, and transmission / transfer cases every 30,000km. It was a good old truck and did take a bit of punishment up & over the sand dunes rocky tracks only a few thousand km on dirt tracks

[pharb]

I had a NL Pajero, bought new in 2000. It had the manual gearbox, and I was told that they had to raise the body mounts in order to fit the newer transmission, so maybe the NL was the first model to use this box. Minor detail... My NL had a noise coming from the gearbox at idle, in neutral when the whole thing was hot. Naturally I reported it to several dealers, who said it was 'normal'. I wasn't happy with the responses, so ultimately I contacted Mitsubishi direct. I also had a problem with a shuddering clutch (when hot). They sent a rep out to our house and of course the car hadn't been started for nearly a week, so no way was it going to rumble or shudder at me. However, when I described the symptoms, the rep agreed with me and gave me an extended warranty which I could use should the shudder and the noise get worse. At 235000 km, I traded the car in on a new NW Pajero and those noises were still there, but no worse, so maybe slight noise is normal.

As NJ SWB said, this gearbox came out in the NJ behind the 2.8L 4M40 turboed motor and the 3.5L V6 DOHC, and then the SOHC, and was used through to when the manual was discontinued about June 2015.

The smaller box continued behind the 3.0L V6 until it was discontinued about '95, '96.

About 450,000km on my NJ - a clutch at about 300,000km, and semi regular oil changes. Nothing else, except hard to grab 2nd gear quickly on sub 5 degree mornings.

My NX - at 130,000km to early to tell.

My cousin with a manual NT is very noisey in 3rd gear. Been like it for a number of years. In true mechanic wner form he isn't going to try to fix until it fails properly.

For an NP manual I would be more worried about the dual mass flywheel - pretty good chance will need replaced at same time as clutch. Not a big issue, just extra dollars at time, and probably cheaper after market units available by now.

[BJPK]

Cheers guys, exactly the info i was after.
Now just gotta wait til tuesday and hopefully itl be mine 👍

[psproule]

Only the early NM's had a problem with jumping out of first gear. My parents example was one of them. The trans is otherwise tough as nails. Was also used in small Canter trucks. Some comments from my history with an NM3.5 manual and then an NP 3.2 Manual;

• Some example had issues with wearing the splines off the trans output shaft into the transfer case, not helped by the AC condensate tube dumping on top of the trans.
  
• DMF behind the diesel will fail - not a matter of if but when. When it goes you can still drive it but it will be all rattly and shuddery. You can replace with an SMF kit. Not as smooth as the factory DMF but cheaper and will never fail again. Been there done that.
  
• Torque of the diesel is enough to overcome the factory spec clutch when bogged in sand. Uprated clutches are good but might shudder a bit and be heavier on the pedal
  
• Castrol VMX-M is the right oil to use in the trans and transfer. Note the "-M" stands for Mitsubishi. Has some additives over the normal VMX that seem to help syncro feel. 80 series owners also like this oil.
  
• It will kill an injector pump some day, and they are a) becoming hard to source and b) dear as poison. It's a Bosch / Zexel VRZ and only used on a handful of vehicles. It's a variant of the more common VP35 but not interchangeable. I believe you can do a preventative rebuild on them, replacing the main bearing that wears through the coating and fails at much less cost than when one lets go of it's own volition. Only a couple of companies are tooled up to do the VRZ.
  
• They are otherwise a solid and surprisingly capable bus. In some ways I wish I still had the NP over our auto NX. Ours did 280,000km before the next owner took it on many more adventures.

Pat

[BJPK]

Thanks for all the advice. One at work fell through but picked up another one. glx manual 3.2 for well under my 10 k so pretty happy.

[Chappie]

I have a 12/06 NS MT 3.2 diesel (the first of the NS) with around 345,000 and it jumps out of first if I am not holding the gear shifter. If it is in 4WD it doesn't do it (yet).

Cheers Iain