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Idle too high-3.5l petrol

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  • disco stu
    Valued Member
    • Dec 2018
    • 3104
    • Wollongong

    Idle too high-3.5l petrol

    Hey all. Finally got the engine in and running in the nl-3.5 petrol.

    Idle was really high. I remembered the bypass screw, so I screed that in all the way and idle has dropped down, but still too high are 1000rpm with it bottomed out and car warmed up.

    What else could be causing high idle, or is there a way to drop it down?

    I have cleaned out the idle control solenoid in throttle body. Could I have installed that wrong or does it need adjusting?

    Would appreciate any advice you guys might be able to offer

    Stu
  • DibbyDibbyDJ
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2019
    • 538
    • Victoria

    #2
    Air leak from intake system?
    2024 Outlander

    Diamond Technician at Main Dealer

    mitsubishi-forums

    Comment

    • disco stu
      Valued Member
      • Dec 2018
      • 3104
      • Wollongong

      #3
      I can't find any leaks, but I'm about to look harder.

      Mostly keen to know if there was anything in the throttle body I might have gotten wrong/need adjusting, as I had everything apart to clean it all up

      Comment

      • disco stu
        Valued Member
        • Dec 2018
        • 3104
        • Wollongong

        #4
        It's down to about 950, but still to high. Running through the manual for things to check, but it's hard to follow that without mut2

        Comment

        • motorazr
          Member
          • Aug 2018
          • 115
          • Adelaide

          #5
          Perhaps the cable may need backing off and moving from where it is clamped. Not allowing the flutter valve to close completely.

          Comment

          • disco stu
            Valued Member
            • Dec 2018
            • 3104
            • Wollongong

            #6
            Thanks. Did check that and there is slight amount of slack in cable, so that's not it.

            Wanted to check the TPS to check idle position switch, but can't get to the connector as it points the wrong way. Might try the camry connector to plug into it

            The manual mentions listening for the idle speed control sound on turning on ignition, engine cold. What the manual fails to mention is what this sound actually is like! Can anyone help me with that? I do hear a series of ticks with a very slight "grrr" or "nnnnnnn" on turning on ignition, but no idea if that is what I'm listening for

            Comment

            • DibbyDibbyDJ
              Valued Member
              • Sep 2019
              • 538
              • Victoria

              #7
              Try holding the motor as a friend turns key on. You should feel it moving
              2024 Outlander

              Diamond Technician at Main Dealer

              mitsubishi-forums

              Comment

              • disco stu
                Valued Member
                • Dec 2018
                • 3104
                • Wollongong

                #8
                But I have no friends

                Good idea, I'll give that one a go, cheers

                Comment

                • Alex86
                  Valued Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 2416
                  • Here and there

                  #9
                  Disconnect the battery for 5 mins. Hook it up again, turn the key to on (don’t start yet) and you’ll hear a distinct series of rapid clicks, hopefully.
                  '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
                  Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

                  '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

                  Wanted: Adventure.

                  Comment

                  • disco stu
                    Valued Member
                    • Dec 2018
                    • 3104
                    • Wollongong

                    #10
                    Thanks Alex. Yes, I have those clicks. Was just never sure where they were coming from

                    Comment

                    • stumagoo
                      Valued Member
                      • Jun 2014
                      • 2064
                      • Perth WA S.O.R

                      #11
                      the idle screw is not supposed to be adjusted - if the idle is wrong there is a reason - either a vacuum leak or the Maf is reading wrong or similar - I would guess there is a vacuum leak.... they can be tough to spot
                      1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                      *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                      1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                      .

                      Comment

                      • disco stu
                        Valued Member
                        • Dec 2018
                        • 3104
                        • Wollongong

                        #12
                        Thanks Stu. Throttle body was pulled apart and cleaned (everything was on this engine) so I was thinking it would likely be out of whack. But the fact it is bottomed out was making me think vacuum also....But hoping I've missed something else that is easier to find

                        Comment

                        • erad
                          Valued Member
                          • Mar 2015
                          • 5067
                          • Cooma NSW

                          #13
                          There is a small steel pipe on the underside of the intake manifold. A rubber vacuum hose connects to tappings near the throttle body, and the other end goes (I think) to the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel vapour canister. It is possible that you have missed one or more of these connections. This will allow more air into the engine and the ECU will adjust the fuel dose accordingly. As the throttle opens more, this small amount of air leakage will easily be overcome and the mixtures will be adjusted again by the ECU.

                          Comment

                          • disco stu
                            Valued Member
                            • Dec 2018
                            • 3104
                            • Wollongong

                            #14
                            Thanks erad. Double checked those and both ends connected correctly, plus the other vacuum hoses. Not that there is that many on this engine.

                            All vacuum hoses have been replaced also

                            Comment

                            • stumagoo
                              Valued Member
                              • Jun 2014
                              • 2064
                              • Perth WA S.O.R

                              #15
                              I have found the metal gasket between the upper and lower Plenum are real PITA to get to seal - I know use sealant on them - even when brand new
                              1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                              *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                              1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                              .

                              Comment

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