Engine oil what everyone using in there NT without DPF

[Jasonmc73]

Traditional "closed" DPFs are literally filters - they catch the soot, eventually clog, then "burn off" the soot into ash.

The DPF in the NT is called an "open" DPF, as isn't a true filter - it doesn't catch the soot. It functions more like a catalytic converter, encouraging the soot to continue to burn, so that the mass of soot exiting the tail pipe is within allowable limits. Probably the same number of particles, but smaller, so they can create a different type of health hazard.

The open DPF doesn't clog.

OK now i've had A thought, does it look anything like an NX DPF??
The average inpesctor if it did would have no clue if it was in place of closed NX DPF i'm thinking?

A disguised delete pipe for an NX ??

[Jack ANT]

I have a manual NT without a DPF. I will not use anything other than full synthetic 5W / 40. Usually Nulon but am happy to use Castrol Edge diesel specific. 250 000 km across and up and down this country never an issue. It's not the most modern motor but it is extremely reliable so long as you run the right oil. Fully Synthetic 5W (10W) 40.

Just my opinion based on my hard learnt experience.

[trueblue]

Yeah so ended up getting my oil change out and replaced with penrite 5/30W seem to get the best feed back from the number of people and mechanics I asked and can be used on vehicle with or without DPFs.


ENVIRO+ 5W-30@*$#is designed for use in@*$#modern@*$#4, 6 & 8+ cylinder multi-cam, multi-valve (including VVT), naturally aspirated, supercharged & turbocharged engines. It is suitable for use in direct injection (FSI/TSI) petrol and@*$#Light Duty@*$#Diesel@*$#(TDI) engines including those fitted with/without@*$#DPFs(Diesel Particulate Filters).

My other choice and what the retail shop oil finders recommend is penrite 10, which I was told is better for older cars with 220k plus on the clock.

HPR@*$#Diesel@*$#10@*$#is a premium high performance@*$#Semi Synthetic@*$#SAE@*$#10W-40, non-friction modified@*$#engine oil. It features a@*$#DOUBLE LAYER@*$#of engine@*$#wear@*$#protection with@*$#FULL@*$#Zinc@*$#and Penrites advanced@*$#EXTRA TENtechnology. It contains a combination of high technology@*$#additives, including increased dispersant levels and low shear@*$#viscositymodifiers. It protects against corrosion, oil@*$#oxidation@*$#and@*$#sludge@*$#under all operating conditions.

For now the NT seems to like the 5/30w with low ash less burn off.

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[Paj11]

Mobil 0-30

Typo, meant Mobil 0-40

[jjacer]

Hi guys just wanted to see what everyone's using in the NT Pajeros mine does not have a diesel particulate filter.

Just had a service done by a reputable diesel tune workshop and have been informed they have put 15/40 mineral based diesel oil into my NT Pajero which I am not thrilled about.

I was under the impression that pajeros required semi synthetic or full synthetic oils, am I right?

Other question is which is the best oil weight to use? I have got mixed reports from Mitsubishi dealers I have rang three different dealers and received three different outcomes.

I have narrowed it down to two Penrite oils which I think is best suited.

Penrite HPR Diesel 10 semi synthetic 10/40w

Or

Penrite Enviro + full synthetic 5/30W

What's your thoughts and let me know


Look forward to the feedback.

Cheers

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Your handbook will show you exactly which oil is suited depending upon the temperature range where you live. ( page 8-9 ).

A lot of people use a 5w30 oil designed for an atmospheric temperature range between -40 degrees and +50 degrees centigrade.

I live in Brisbane and it rarely gets below 10 degrees centigrade let alone 50 degrees below here so using Mitsubishi guidelines for the 4M41 engine I use a 15w40 oil which gives an effective temperature range of between -15 degrees up to 50 degrees - perfect for sub tropical Qld.

I believe that due to lower viscosity a 5w30 oil is favored by some due to it affording slightly better fuel economy due to lower viscous resistance during warm up?.

I have found Penrite semi-synthetic oils to be fine for my Mitsi diesel with oil , air and fuel filter changes every 10,000 klms adjusted depending on towing usage and offroading usage.

[Jasonmc73]

It is an interesting topic of varying opinions & probably all of them are correct.

My old man has used Valvoline Super Diesel 15W-40 in his Landcruiser 78 series Ute for about 650,000k's now.
The engine is still in good working order & it is completely original & unopened .

Far as I know that's about $8 a litre, basic mineral oil.

Those k's do show the oil has worked as required.

Towed many horse floats as well.

Where he lives is below Zero winter mornings frosty, he has started & driven before sun rise forever until few months ago as retired & hot summers QLD.

He does service regular.

Not in any way related to the above, but at work we are a Valvoline agent & I have seen the same oil used for 15 years in fleet of compatible utes.
There has been no issues to my knowledge on the basis of the oil used.

[Kingmarz]

It is an interesting topic of varying opinions & probably all of them are correct.

My old man has used Valvoline Super Diesel 15W-40 in his Landcruiser 78 series Ute for about 650,000k's now.
The engine is still in good working order & it is completely original & unopened .

Far as I know that's about $8 a litre, basic mineral oil.

Those k's do show the oil has worked as required.

Towed many horse floats as well.

Where he lives is below Zero winter mornings frosty, he has started & driven before sun rise forever until few months ago as retired & hot summers QLD.

He does service regular.

Not in any way related to the above, but at work we are a Valvoline agent & I have seen the same oil used for 15 years in fleet of compatible utes.
There has been no issues to my knowledge on the basis of the oil used.

My old Mitsubishi Challenger with the 4m40 engine burnt 2 litres of Valvoline Super Diesel between services and when I changed to Penrite Semi Synthetic it burnt none.

[Yeorgos]

Im using Penrite Diesel 10 10w40 in my recently purchased non DPF NX and intend of changing it at 7500km intervals

[Jasonmc73]

My old Mitsubishi Challenger with the 4m40 engine burnt 2 litres of Valvoline Super Diesel between services and when I changed to Penrite Semi Synthetic it burnt none.

That's good news.

If I was you i would continue to use the one that worked for you.

Save checking your oil & topping it up.

I've driven utes Nissan & Mitsubishi for 15 years & they haven't used oil/ Valvoline not a drop.
Nore has my fathers 650,000 k toyota engine

I don't mind Penrite meself & use Penrite full Synthetic in me misses 2017 Mazda 3.

I think Penrite make products that are worthwile, been around for quite sometime, comes on special & can be cost effective if purchased rite & readily available.

Pick one & stick with it.

[Kingmarz]

That's good news.

If I was you i would continue to use the one that worked for you.

Save checking your oil & topping it up.

I've driven utes Nissan & Mitsubishi for 15 years & they haven't used oil/ Valvoline not a drop.
Nore has my fathers 650,000 k toyota engine

I don't mind Penrite meself & use Penrite full Synthetic in me misses 2017 Mazda 3.

I think Penrite make products that are worthwile, been around for quite sometime, comes on special & can be cost effective if purchased rite & readily available.

Pick one & stick with it.

I used Valvoline diesel extra in my old Nissan Laurel with no problems but that had no turbo but mineral oil is mot suitable for a turbo charged engine where a turbo can be spinning over 300,000rpm and the manifold and turbo exhaust housing can get red hot and caking the oil on shutdown. I can never go back to mineral oil with my driving style.

[Jasonmc73]

I used Valvoline diesel extra in my old Nissan Laurel with no problems but that had no turbo but mineral oil is mot suitable for a turbo charged engine where a turbo can be spinning over 300,000rpm and the manifold and turbo exhaust housing can get red hot and caking the oil on shutdown. I can never go back to mineral oil with my driving style.

Sounds like your choice of oil is working for you

It's written on the bottle "Suitable for Turbo Charged Engines"

The engine oil spec is as follows

SAE 15W-40, API CH-4/SJ, ACEA A3/B3, MACK EO-M PLUS, VOLVO VDS, VDS-2, JASO DH-1

If your engine manufacturer says your engine can drink one of these specs, than it is fine to use.

Anything else is just an opinion & what you prefer & have found works for you.

But to suggest it's not suitable for Turbo use is just plainly inconsistent with my experiences. I've towed heavy for 15 years in my job along with a fleet of other turbo engines + tilt trays all using Valvoline basic oil.

& as I have said I know a Landcruiser has done 650k's engine is in good condition.

I live in a hot climate as well

Regular servicing would be my advice & use an oil that manufacturer suggests/ specifications.

Synthetic oil is no doubt from all reports a fine product there is no doubt about that, but mineral oils from my experience are tried & tested & do not cause engine wear if it is the correct spec oil for the job.

[BruceandBobbi]

Interesting link

Yes i know it's American.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0hbZzMp6mg

[Jasonmc73]

Interesting link

Yes i know it's American.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0hbZzMp6mg

I have no doubt the quality of Synthetic oil ability to last longer intervals, higher temp capability etc, but just pointing out real life, real vehicles with mineral oils that I have seen real world.

There are many opinions & probably most of them are correct.

I still reckon the most correct is Sharkcaver's, scheduled oil samples tell you a lot more than gut feelings will how your oil & wear is stacking up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVBsiqgHfio

[BruceandBobbi]

I have no doubt the quality of Synthetic oil ability to last longer intervals, higher temp capability etc, but just pointing out real life, real vehicles with mineral oils that I have seen real world.

There are many opinions & probably most of them are correct.

I still reckon the most correct is Sharkcaver's, scheduled oil samples tell you a lot more than gut feelings will how your oil & wear is stacking up


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVBsiqgHfio

Many many years ago when I was 25 I drove county paper trucks. Sydney Muswellbrook. They were International petrol engines running on Mineral oil Shell Rotella. They were worked hard with motors being rebuilt around 350,000 miles.

Mechanic used to complain he was replacing brake pads every 25,000 miles.