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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #1  
Old 17-06-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Default NL 3.5l engine removal help-top bolts

Hey guys. So its finally time to get the engine out of the car. I'm at the undoing bellhousing stage before lifting.

Having trouble with the 2 bolts right at the very top of the bellhousing. I can get ratchet onto the bolt etc, but its done up tight (of course) and need leverage to crack it. No room to get bit of pipe over ratchet handle because it jams on the firewall etc

Just wondering if anyone has any tips for those bolts-is there some way of accessing them over the bellhousing that I can't seem to work out, or some other way? What tools did you guys use to get these.

Starting to wonder if I need one of those rotating head breaker bars.

And yes, I've undone the clutch bearing thanks to plenty of heads up on here about the pull type clutches. Thought I would struggle with it, but after undoing the slave cylinder it took about 10s to get it separated

Also, while I'm here-wondering about reinstalling engine. Is it going to be too hard to do up those bolts at the rear if the engine top end is all back together? Is it simpler if I put intake etc back on once engine is back in, or cause no issues on reinstall and just put it all back together on the stand before install?

Would appreciate any help and tips you guys could give

Cheers, Stu
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Old 17-06-19
pharb pharb is offline
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When I have had transmissions out to replace clutches in Tritons and Pajeros I have dropped the rear of the gearbox down as far as possible, then using a impact, or 6 sided socket (for more positive grip on bolt head), and a universal joint, then as many extensions as I can fit (at least 2 x 300mm, plus more if I have them), I can then put a breaker bar on the setup and lower down a little bit so as to get some swing.

Once the bolts are cracked I can generally get my hand up there to undo.

I tend to use this method to crack all the bolts above about 8 and 4 o'clock around the bellhousing. Crack them all one by one whilst having the multi extension in my hands then go back and finish undoing the loosened bolts by hand, or put ratchet on extensions.
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Old 18-06-19
erad erad is offline
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When my mechanic friend overhauled the engine in my NL, he was underneath the car and he undid all the bell housing bolts form there. I was amazed that he could do it that way. Sadly, I don't know what socket extensions he used though. As far as I know, he didn't drop the rear of the gearbox to do it.
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Old 18-06-19
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Thanks guys. I looked at dropping box rear last night but looks like the back end will only go down a few inches due to the fixed rear crossmember. This be enough Pharb?


Erad: I'll have another look from underneath and see if I can get them from underneath


Thanks for the help
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  #5  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
pharb pharb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco stu View Post
Thanks guys. I looked at dropping box rear last night but looks like the back end will only go down a few inches due to the fixed rear crossmember. This be enough Pharb?


Erad: I'll have another look from underneath and see if I can get them from underneath


Thanks for the help

Yes, dropped rear cross member. Actually remove bolts that secure cross member to chassis, leaving gearbox attached to crossmember.

My suggestion - drop rear of gearbox like this, then once bellhousing bolts removed can just jack back up and put a couple of bolts back in crossmember, leaving loose for when refitting engine.

Take note this may not be the most productive way for you, but is how I get access to bellhousing bolts.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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I pulled mine in one piece box and engine together...... I guess I just do things the hard way - and messy transfer case oil goes everywhere
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1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL blisterside, 285.75.16's on -22 rims 3" suspension lift, stealth winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back

.... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Cheers. What model are you doing this on? Rear gearbox cross member is not removable on mine

I managed to loosen all the bolts. Thought outside the square and with a spanner on the bolt I managed to put a long piece of wood on the spanner and hammer that to crack the bolts loose. Now I've just got to remove the bonnet, remove bolts all the way and lift her out

Any opinions on not putting the whole engine back together before installing?

Thanks for the help so far. I probably should have persisted longer before asking, just trying to save stuffing around to much
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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mine was a 3.5 into a NL and a NJ.... but its a hell of a squeeze and you need to watch the upper intake on teh fire wall as you tip it in..... I broke the little valve to the purge cannister on my second run.

If you can work out a way to get at the bolts seperating them is by far an easier/better way
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1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL blisterside, 285.75.16's on -22 rims 3" suspension lift, stealth winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back

.... and 1990 Nissan Z32 300zx for on road shenanigans
.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Thanks Stu. I did ponder pulling box out with it, but one look at the size of the gearbox made me rethink that real fast!

My reply asking what model was actually to pharb, you replied while I was replying to him. I was just surprised that pharb mentioned removing the rear gearbox cross member as mine is fixed, not removable
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  #10  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
pharb pharb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disco stu View Post
Thanks Stu. I did ponder pulling box out with it, but one look at the size of the gearbox made me rethink that real fast!

My reply asking what model was actually to pharb, you replied while I was replying to him. I was just surprised that pharb mentioned removing the rear gearbox cross member as mine is fixed, not removable
I'll blame alziemhers.

Its coming back to me now. Disconnect center crossmember, dropping rear of gearbox only as far as thr fixed rear cross member was enough to get hand around top of bell housing, and get a fairly straight run on the socket extensions so as not to loose to much torque through angle of socket uni joint.
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