Originally posted by baggins
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6g75 powered triton built and running
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Originally posted by bundyjr View Postsome brake pads on the market that would be considered an upgrade are in general made of a harder material which will perform better at higher temps/ last longer but in turn will wear out disc rotors at a faster rate then normal. for me its a person preference to burn up pads first and for most at the end of the day
An added benefit of that will also be it will take longer to stop. So you'll shy away from driving at speed. Your new 3.8 will be under stressed driving slow and your fuel economy will be great!
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Originally posted by baggins View PostUsing that logic you should not have changed your calipers. Better to stay with the original single piston triton calipers as they prob have a smaller pad so will heat up quicker. And as the disk size is the same the disks should last ages and the pads will last less....
An added benefit of that will also be it will take longer to stop. So you'll shy away from driving at speed. Your new 3.8 will be under stressed driving slow and your fuel economy will be great!
twin pot callipers along with larger pads equates to an over all
larger surface area that is subjected to braking loads and as a
result better performance. and yes the master cylinder is matched to the
brakes
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That's not what your saying in your earlier comment. However now that you've realised this the 4 piston calipers that I suggest would be an improvement again wouldn't you say.. And you'd have to accept based on the logic you provide that what I was suggested is actually superior and you are wrong to say otherwise. Just going by what you say now. Sure you must agree with your own logic..
Two Pistons better than one so four must be better again.
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I am enjoying these conversions, its where my build is intended to go eventually. Cant even think how much better the 3.5 is over my old 3.0 so I am really hanging out to go the next step. GOt to kill the current engine first though before my lovely wife allows me to upgrade...... damn this thing is strong though1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
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[QUOTE=Dr Project;513145]Sorry for the hijack bundyjr, but I've just done this too.
I did the write up for another guy and to share.
Soooo much better than a slightly sick 3.0L
What did you do differently?
Dr.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwx...ew?usp=sharing[/QUOTEimpressive write up
where everyone chooses to use the ecu and loom from there current car to run the 380 motor I chose to build a complete custom loom from a manual 380 that I brought from pickles so my truck is in fact running the factory 380 ecu fuse boxes, body computer. dash and steering wheel ect ect .ill get to putting up build pics of it one of these days but im currently on holidays in the NT and beer kepps getting in the way of doing anything constructive
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mods as follows
engine mounts modded to suit 380 block
380 sump cut and shut to clear diff and bolt up to bell housing
intake manifold and fuel rail spun 180 degs.
aftermarket return style fuel pressure reg used to feed non return 380 fuel rail
front of engine is all 3ltr. including oil and water pumps, alt, aircon
custom headers I built feeding single 3inch system
3ltr flywheel and excedy safari tuff clutch
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Bundyjr.
Yep. That'd be a nicer package, but for a number of reasons (one of them p platers driving the car) I wanted a very stock / unmodified look.
It'd take a very practised eye, even getting under the car (bashplates hide the sump and no one would pick the exhaust spacer), to spot it's not quite stock.
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