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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Nab Nab is offline
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I was always talking taught to get the flywheel machined whoever you do a clutch. Not a necessity but gives the new clutch plate a perfectly flat surface to mate with, giving it maximum life. Cheap to do for the machine shop, if you remove it yourself.
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  #12  
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dhula dhula is offline
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Looked in my '96 service manual
Friction material minimum thickness is 0.3mm
Not sure about Paj clutch plates but others I've done suggest yours is more than half worn.
You can do clutch plate without dong pressure plate.
You can get the pressure plate machined or if you want to do it the cheep way, get a flat piece of glass and tape some wet+dry to it then sand away slowly until there are no high spots left (keep the sand paper wet :-) )
Agree with everything else said but depends on how long you'll keep it and how much you want to spend keeping it going.
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  #13  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Thanks all for the responses. I'll just buy clutch plate and not replace pressure plate. For the sake of $90 it seems crazy not to replace it while I'm there and it's so far worn.

Condition of the pressure plate and flywheel is quite good (considering the state of everything else) but I'll call around and look into getting them machined
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  #14  
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tomwithannl tomwithannl is offline
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I am sorry to disagree with DHULA but I would not get the pressure plate machined. By taking metal off the face you are increasing the the clamped gap which decreases the clamping force. That's why it is a replacement part. Just deglaze it with some emery tape.
Get the flywheel machined by all means if it is deeply grooved.

Tom
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  #15  
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disco stu disco stu is offline
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But is it really a big concern considering that they only take off0.1mm or so, and the clutch plate itself wears a lot more than that over it's life? Anther thought is you could take down the mounting points by the same amount as you take off the pressure plate, which I've noticed on this clutch is already recessed so it doesn't move down with flywheel machining.

Anyone know what other cars/models the same clutch from nl petrol pajero will fit? I'm thinning I'll see if I can find the equivalent on rockauto while I'm ordering some other parts. They don't list the 99 montero with manual transmission, only up to 97. I'm looking up various clutch places to try and cross reference but getting a bit of mixed info
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  #16  
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Quinno Quinno is offline
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Good question disco stu. What models have clutch that are interchangeable. I have heavy duty clutch for NH only done 15,000km and sitting loose in back of car (gearbox dead and car going to heaven).
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  #17  
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pharb pharb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwithannl View Post
I am sorry to disagree with DHULA but I would not get the pressure plate machined. By taking metal off the face you are increasing the the clamped gap which decreases the clamping force. That's why it is a replacement part. Just deglaze it with some emery tape.
Get the flywheel machined by all means if it is deeply grooved.

Tom
I also would not bother getting the pressure plate machined. Will possibly cost $100 for negligable benefit.

Unless it is heavily discolored from excess slippage, or heat cracks, which it probably isn't because you have not let the clutch get that bad it has started slipping.

Off topic but in relation to clutch slip - bought a little V6 Mazda Astina a few years ago for a bit of a project car, and hopefully replace the dear wife's 400,000km Laser.
Mazda had no drive. Expected it to have a broken gear box or diff, but when I pulled trans out I found it had basically no clutch. Nothing left of the clutch plate but a metal disc, and a bit of fluff in the bell housing. Not a scaric of friction material left on clutch plate.
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  #18  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
disco stu disco stu is offline
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Cheap fix for you at least Pharb-nice!


I just can't understand why the clutches for these are so damn expensive. Well over twice the price of an equivelent clutch that is 25mm smaller diameter. I just can't understand why. I've sent myself crazy trying to compare parts available in the US and checked cars that the clutch is said to fit from australian sellers, but they all seem to be different. Don't want to get stuck with a useless clutch so I guess I'm going to have to just pay the price and get a proper clutch disk here. At these prices I'm going to have to stay with the original pressure plate
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  #19  
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stumagoo stumagoo is offline
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yeah I went through this at christmas - was on the freeway and out of nowhere as I went to pass a slow car my clutch let go and I slowed down (if I was honest the extra load the supercharger puts on it probably has something to do with it but I am going to play dumb)

I was blown away a the price on ebay of a clutch kit ---- and then because I needed it in less than a week I decided I had to get the mechanic we use at work to do it ----- his price for a HD clutch kit was $250 more than an excedy one on ebay.... plus nearly a grand to fit it.... he dropped the price to $1500 because we send a lot of work his way.... and he was looking after me
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  #20  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quinno View Post
Good question disco stu. What models have clutch that are interchangeable. I have heavy duty clutch for NH only done 15,000km and sitting loose in back of car (gearbox dead and car going to heaven).
My Max Elery W/S manual states different sizes for clutches. It states 250 x 160 mm for the NS V5M31 -E-KD transmission, and 275 x 180 mm for the V5M31-E-XC transmission. I assume that the two trannies are the petrol and diesel models, but in typical cheapie fashion, they don't tell us which model transmission is in the appropriate model. The manual gives gearbox ratios for the petrol and diesel models, but doesn't tell you which is which. Whatever, the diesel would certainly need a stronger clutch because of the higher torque applied to it.
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