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Generation 4-2 Pajero NT model 2009 - 2011

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Old 06-11-19
carnut1100 carnut1100 is offline
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Default The dreaded flashing centre diff lock light is driving me mad

Ok...Iíve searched and Iíve read everything I can find on this issue...but I still havenít solved it or seen my exact set of circumstances...

2011 NT auto.

I was out doing some tracks, and came over a crest where I dragged the bash plate a bit, just after that the flashing orange light of doom inserted itself into my life...

I did the obvious, checked for a broken wire or anything looking out of place, but found nothing.
Checked the front diff actuator, seems to be working fine.

Tried doing continuity tests on the switches on the transfer, and nothing seems to follow any logical pattern.

Transfer seems to have defaulted to 2H and wonít try to engage anything else.

Now the ASC light has joined the party...

Anybody got any ideas for diagnosing it?
Anyone in Brisbane with a scan tool to look for codes?
I canít afford to just throw new switches and sensors and stuff at it until it goes away...
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Old 07-11-19
spot01 spot01 is online now
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Have you cleaned the ABS wheel sensors & tried the "battery lead off for 5 minutes" reset?
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Old 07-11-19
carnut1100 carnut1100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spot01 View Post
Have you cleaned the ABS wheel sensors & tried the "battery lead off for 5 minutes" reset?
Battery lead off, but not for 5 minutes...Will try that today.


Wheel sensors no, but ABS still works..although ASC is now telling me.its off...


I need a code reader...being an NT diesel jumpering the OBD doesn't work.
Anybody got recommendations on what works ancient too expensive? Tip, a $5 ELM327 off eBay doesn't work...
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Old 07-11-19
spot01 spot01 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut1100 View Post
Battery lead off, but not for 5 minutes...Will try that today.


Wheel sensors no, but ABS still works..although ASC is now telling me.its off...


I need a code reader...being an NT diesel jumpering the OBD doesn't work.
Anybody got recommendations on what works ancient too expensive? Tip, a $5 ELM327 off eBay doesn't work...
Note after the battery lead is back on, the ASC light will stay on until driven a short distance.
Also, make sure the front wheels are straight ahead when doing the battery reset.
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Old 07-11-19
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aussieintas aussieintas is offline
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Have you checked the centre diff lock detection switch and associated wiring hasn't been dislodged or damaged. See pic below. There was a post on here somewhere that someone found the wire had broken to one of the transfer switches but was internal not the outer sheath of the wire.
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Old 08-11-19
carnut1100 carnut1100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussieintas View Post
Have you checked the centre diff lock detection switch and associated wiring hasn't been dislodged or damaged. See pic below. There was a post on here somewhere that someone found the wire had broken to one of the transfer switches but was internal not the outer sheath of the wire.
That's the next step... physically removing and checking every switch... code reader says c1456 transfer case switch error.
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Old 09-11-19
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Use the on line tech manual, link below.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...r/index_M1.htm
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88 NF SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
95 NJ SWB 3.0 auto
99 Cruiser 4.5 manual with all the fruit
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Old 09-11-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut1100 View Post
That's the next step... physically removing and checking every switch... code reader says c1456 transfer case switch error.
I think this is the logical next step.

There are some long bolts protruding through the floor pan above the transfer that don't have a lot of clearance to the switches, such that a few of us have had switches damaged. If your "belly out" pushed the transfer up it's possible that you now have a damaged switch.

If this has happened to you, consider cutting the bolts shorter (presuming you drop the rear of the transmission / transfer assembly) or work from inside the cabin to identify the offending bolts and swap for shorter.
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Old 17-11-19
carnut1100 carnut1100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
I think this is the logical next step.

There are some long bolts protruding through the floor pan above the transfer that don't have a lot of clearance to the switches, such that a few of us have had switches damaged. If your "belly out" pushed the transfer up it's possible that you now have a damaged switch.

If this has happened to you, consider cutting the bolts shorter (presuming you drop the rear of the transmission / transfer assembly) or work from inside the cabin to identify the offending bolts and swap for shorter.
So it turned out that the wire had been pinched in half about 50mm from one switch...quick solder and heatshrink and back in business...
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Old 17-11-19
Clem Clem is offline
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Default Food for thought

Hi, I own a Pajero NP and for months I had the same problem and like you I was very frustrated. Finally I've replaced the Front Diff Solenoid Valve also known as the Freewheel Clutch Control. Here is the link where you should be able to find the part for your car. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fit-90-0...item3fc113f66f Regards Clem
Quote:
Originally Posted by carnut1100 View Post
Ok...Iíve searched and Iíve read everything I can find on this issue...but I still havenít solved it or seen my exact set of circumstances...

2011 NT auto.

I was out doing some tracks, and came over a crest where I dragged the bash plate a bit, just after that the flashing orange light of doom inserted itself into my life...

I did the obvious, checked for a broken wire or anything looking out of place, but found nothing.
Checked the front diff actuator, seems to be working fine.

Tried doing continuity tests on the switches on the transfer, and nothing seems to follow any logical pattern.

Transfer seems to have defaulted to 2H and wonít try to engage anything else.

Now the ASC light has joined the party...

Anybody got any ideas for diagnosing it?
Anyone in Brisbane with a scan tool to look for codes?
I canít afford to just throw new switches and sensors and stuff at it until it goes away...
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