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Anyone used one of these in the engine bay? Can't seem to find any specs online...
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White 2016 Pajero Sport GLS, MM bullbar, HR towbar + andersen hitch, towpro, lovells 2" lift, cooper at3's, bushskinz, thule bars, clearviews, redarc bcdc + 110ah lithium, engel MRF40 fridge, GME TX3350, cel-fi go, ultragauge, idrive, nitro maxx 22" LED bar, awning, cargo barrier, ARB compressor. -
I think you are talking about the self re-setting one with 2 lug bolts and a mounting hole.
You can mount it anywhere, but it's a good idea to mount it in a small box, also available from Jcay, or at the very least, Insulate it as the 2 terminals will be live.
The metal cover & mounting is insulated from the Circuit Breaker so it can be mounted to the bodywork, but does not need to be earthed, so it can be mounted anywhere.
Hope this helps
Steve2009 NT VRX, Rear Battery Pack, 18" Bridgestone D-697, SPVi EGR mod, BushSkinz Intercooler & Sump Plates. BOO's Transmission & Transfer Case Plates. GME 3550, HID HB's and 22"LED Bar, Pioneer Avic F80DAB Audio/Coms/Nav system MM4x4 TC Lockup Mate. & 1/2 tank of Diesel
Pretty Stock but very Capable
Wish List: ARB Deluxe Bar & Winch, Snorkel, Diff Breathers, & 1/2 tank of Diesel -
Hmm , no, sounds different.. it's a manual reset in a plastic case already...
Just not sure if it will handle the heat?White 2016 Pajero Sport GLS, MM bullbar, HR towbar + andersen hitch, towpro, lovells 2" lift, cooper at3's, bushskinz, thule bars, clearviews, redarc bcdc + 110ah lithium, engel MRF40 fridge, GME TX3350, cel-fi go, ultragauge, idrive, nitro maxx 22" LED bar, awning, cargo barrier, ARB compressor.Comment
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There is a data sheet available from Jaycar, but it's not fully translated, so I'm not sure what the numbers really mean. At a guess, the "break time" numbers are in seconds, so it's indicating that it won't hold its rated current indefinitely at 20 degrees C.Originally posted by Flying View PostHmm , no, sounds different.. it's a manual reset in a plastic case already...
Just not sure if it will handle the heat?
It will also derate at higher temperatures, which you'll need to take into account. I suggest a maximum load of 40A (or thereabouts), but your wiring will still need to be rated for 60A.NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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So I installed it into the engine bay, then managed to snap the mounts off while tightening it.. not the most sturdy product I'd say... it keeps tripping after a few minutes of engine on and powering the redarc bcdc and second battery that I just finished installing.. not sure if it's the breaker or something wrong in the install ... the redarc is charging fine before it trips though... anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?White 2016 Pajero Sport GLS, MM bullbar, HR towbar + andersen hitch, towpro, lovells 2" lift, cooper at3's, bushskinz, thule bars, clearviews, redarc bcdc + 110ah lithium, engel MRF40 fridge, GME TX3350, cel-fi go, ultragauge, idrive, nitro maxx 22" LED bar, awning, cargo barrier, ARB compressor.Comment
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Maybe best to call their techstore 1800022888.Comment
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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It is LFP1240- LV
the feed is running from the battery, to the 60 amp Jaycar fuse, then to a redarc RK1260 relay, then to the LFP1240 which is in the cargo areaWhite 2016 Pajero Sport GLS, MM bullbar, HR towbar + andersen hitch, towpro, lovells 2" lift, cooper at3's, bushskinz, thule bars, clearviews, redarc bcdc + 110ah lithium, engel MRF40 fridge, GME TX3350, cel-fi go, ultragauge, idrive, nitro maxx 22" LED bar, awning, cargo barrier, ARB compressor.Comment
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40A output, with inefficiencies in the DC-DC conversion it will easily draw 50 A, possibly more if the supply side voltage is low.Originally posted by Flying View Post
Redarc states to use a 60 A fuse. A 60 A fuse should hold 60 A continuously at 25 degrees C. Your CB's specs indicate it won't hold 60 A indefinitely at 20 degrees C, and the physics of these things mean that it will trip faster at higher ambient temperatures.
Jaycar sold you a dud. You could try taking it back and arguing it's not fit for purpose, given that it's rated at 60 A but won't hold 60 A continuously. Unfortunately, because the tabs have broken, they may suspect you're making excuses for having broken it. Don't let them change the subject - a 60 A CB that won't hold 60 A is not fit for purpose, and you're entitled to a refund.
Don't accept an exchange unit - it's not fit for purpose. By all means try an alternative product if they have one you like, but I believe you are entitled to a full refund. I'd like to think jaycar would do the right thing.
Good luck.
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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Thanks for that NJ, I'll see how I go with taking it back...White 2016 Pajero Sport GLS, MM bullbar, HR towbar + andersen hitch, towpro, lovells 2" lift, cooper at3's, bushskinz, thule bars, clearviews, redarc bcdc + 110ah lithium, engel MRF40 fridge, GME TX3350, cel-fi go, ultragauge, idrive, nitro maxx 22" LED bar, awning, cargo barrier, ARB compressor.Comment
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The redarc 1240 will draw 56A at full load. I could never get any sized re settable breaker to hold this current on my 1240, even a 100A one. They are a great device, just not for continuous, high draw applications in my opinion.
Do yourself a favour, get rid of it and replace it with a solid fuse such as a mini anl (80A) as I did or a maxi fuse or similar.
EDIT: after seeing the reply below, please scratch the maxi fuse I recommended above. I meant to write midi as per john's advice.
Maxi fuses are renowned for melting in high current applications.
Apologies for writing the wrong fuse originally.Last edited by sharkcaver; 12-11-18, 11:51 PM.MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.
My JourneysComment
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ill tell you what it is its the switch i went through 5 of these dont buy another . buy this and you will never have that problem again what happens they get very hot the redarc really sucks the amp hard which cause heat it throws the switch and after time it gets worse and the plates inside get shiny and first bit of heat it throws so buy this and you will never be sorry dont forget to buy spare fuses regards john
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This is the holder I recently installed for my BCDC 20, with a 40 A fuse. So far it's been a success.Originally posted by johndavis125262 View PostNT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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