Fyrlyt Nemisis 9000 on an NX

[DT6061]

I am considering fitting these but note each light is rated @ 250 watts. Also they actually run 24 volt globes so a 12v to 24 volt transformer is included with the kit. Need to build or source ready made wiring loom of sufficient capacity though as Fyrlyt don't do one.

Will the NX alternator be up to the task?

[starjunk]

I am considering fitting these but note each light is rated @ 250 watts. Also they actually run 24 volt globes so a 12v to 24 volt transformer is included with the kit. Need to build or source ready made wiring loom of sufficient capacity though as Fyrlyt don't do one.



Will the NX alternator be up to the task?

Well, 250W@12V is over 20Amps, x2 if you're running two of these flamethrowers..... Plus allow for losses in the 24-12V converter and you're looking at a draw of maybe 45Amps!!

That will definitely affect your battery recharge rate, mate! And you'll need some substantial cables to run that setup. Definitely NOT a job for 6mm twin!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Ian Sharpe]

Well, 250W@12V is over 20Amps, x2 if you're running two of these flamethrowers..... Plus allow for losses in the 24-12V converter and you're looking at a draw of maybe 45Amps!!

That will definitely affect your battery recharge rate, mate! And you'll need some substantial cables to run that setup. Definitely NOT a job for 6mm twin!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

still puzzled why folk are buying these power guzzlers when there are LED alternatives that draw a fraction of the power.

[NFT5]

Need to build or source ready made wiring loom of sufficient capacity though as Fyrlyt don't do one.

Will the NX alternator be up to the task?

Yes, a custom harness is required. I've been running Nemesis for a few years and made my own harness which has performed faultlessly. At a minimum both power and earth wires need to be 10ga or 6mm2. Heavier is better because there isn't the same tolerance in voltage that most nominally 12v lights give. By that I mean that the transformers output 24v exactly and the bulbs need every bit of that to perform at their best.

Well, 250W@12V is over 20Amps, x2 if you're running two of these flamethrowers..... Plus allow for losses in the 24-12V converter and you're looking at a draw of maybe 45Amps!!

That will definitely affect your battery recharge rate, mate! And you'll need some substantial cables to run that setup. Definitely NOT a job for 6mm twin!

250w at 24v mate, not 12v. So 10.4A, which the charging system on the Pajero will handle with ease.

still puzzled why folk are buying these power guzzlers when there are LED alternatives that draw a fraction of the power.

A few reasons:

• Most important is the CRI or Colour Rendering Index. Most LEDs have a very poor ability to render colour accurately where halogen is much better at this. This means that, for example, that kangaroo on the side of the road up ahead will be much more visible under halogen light than LED. The light is more natural with less of the blue end of the spectrum, making it much easier on the eyes than LED, or HID, where the greater proportion of blue actually causes your pupils to constrict, allowing less light in and reducing your ability to see.
  
  What this means is that with more red in the colour of the light the brown of the kangaroo's fur will stand out better against a green vegetation background.
  
  The Osram bulb used was originally developed for medical use and is much whiter than most automotive halogen designs. It does appear yellow by comparison with HID or LED, but this isn't necessarily a bad thing.
  
  I actually run a combination of HID high beams with the Nemesis. This allows me to boost the blue end of the spectrum a little, filling in what is missing from the halogen bulb and giving an overall output which more approaches natural sunlight in colour.
• The large reflector is much more efficient at controlling and directing the light output from the bulb. Although LED reflector design has improved greatly it still isn't anywhere near as good and so halogen (and HID) lights have a significant advantage in both range and beam pattern as a much lower percentage of the total light produced (raw lumens) is lost in stray forward projection.
• There are quite a few LED driving lights on the market with high wattages (180-240w). Of course the LEDs are at 12v, not 24v and claimed lumens have been proven in many cases to be, ummm..........................optimistic.
  
  In order to compete with the efficiencies of a halogen/HID reflector system the LED light manufacturers have had to pack in more and bigger LEDs into each light. This, of course, creates a problem with heat so they drive the LEDs at a much lower level which produces less heat and less light. Less light means they need more or bigger LEDs.....do you see a pattern emerging here? It's so much easier to either lie about the output or misquote outputs at maximum factory test levels rather than what is actually in the light.
  
  I have driven with at least one of these LED driving light systems and the Nemesis is, from both subjective and objective viewpoints, vastly superior. Much more light and easier to see.

When Fyrlyt were doing their development of the Nemesis I was fortunate enough to be included in the project, along with a number of professional drivers, mostly truckies operating in North Queensland and the NT. Most of those guys had been using LED systems, especially Great White and almost unanimously they commented that the Nemesis was a much better light than the LED. I'd had HID previous to the Nemesis so things like the instant on and better road verge illumination appealed to me, again with the much better CRI.


in the night time offraod racing world a lot of teams went to LED and have now switched back to halogen. Again, the colour improves the ability of the driver to pick up small shifts that may indicate the presence of holes or similar. So, they're steering more accurately by being better equipped to make those instantaneous decisions. That means less damage and more chance of making it to the finish line ahead of the competitor.

[Pajshomoneroguntero]

still puzzled why folk are buying these power guzzlers when there are LED alternatives that draw a fraction of the power.

Fyrlyt's argument is on their website.

[Dicko1]

Fyrlyt's argument is on their website.

Wether advertising $50 or $2000 products...all advertisers bullshit to get your dollar.

[NFT5]

What part of their advertising do you think is bullshit, Dicko?

[starjunk]

Yes, a custom harness is required. I've been running Nemesis for a few years and made my own harness which has performed faultlessly. At a minimum both power and earth wires need to be 10ga or 6mm2. Heavier is better because there isn't the same tolerance in voltage that most nominally 12v lights give. By that I mean that the transformers output 24v exactly and the bulbs need every bit of that to perform at their best.



250w at 24v mate, not 12v. So 10.4A,......

WRONG. Unless you run your Paj on 24V, the voltage from battery to voltage converter will be 12V. 250W is 250W, so at the voltage converter output the current will be half (a little less due to converter losses) than the input.
Ergo, the wiring from battery to converter will carry twice the current as the wiring from the converter to the lights.
Trust me, I'm a sparky

[old Jack]

Hi Chris,

Since the CRI appears to be an issue then why have we not seen 3500K to 4000K LED lightbars, LEDS with this colour temperature are available for the residential/commercial market but not for the automotive.

When doing long distance night driving I wear glasses with a slight amber tint

http://www.bollesafety.com.au/reference/amber-1615503

I find it improves definition and reduces reflection glare, my Lightforce lightbar is 5000K and it was the lowest colour temp and a flat driving beam pattern I could find at the time.

OJ.

[Dicko1]

What part of their advertising do you think is bullshit, Dicko?

The price...

[Amok]

The price...

lol

[MSF]

[Ian Sharpe]

Fyrlyt's argument is on their website.

over the years I have had IPF, lightforce, hella & narva lights. IPF were the biggest dissapointments. I now run great white LEDs & would never go back to halogen or HID. The LED suit me fine.

[Bru9]

Yes, a custom harness is required. I've been running Nemesis for a few years and made my own harness which has performed faultlessly. At a minimum both power and earth wires need to be 10ga or 6mm2. Heavier is better because there isn't the same tolerance in voltage that most nominally 12v lights give. By that I mean that the transformers output 24v exactly and the bulbs need every bit of that to perform at their best.



250w at 24v mate, not 12v. So 10.4A, which the charging system on the Pajero will handle with ease.



A few reasons:

• Most important is the CRI or Colour Rendering Index. Most LEDs have a very poor ability to render colour accurately where halogen is much better at this. This means that, for example, that kangaroo on the side of the road up ahead will be much more visible under halogen light than LED. The light is more natural with less of the blue end of the spectrum, making it much easier on the eyes than LED, or HID, where the greater proportion of blue actually causes your pupils to constrict, allowing less light in and reducing your ability to see.
  
  What this means is that with more red in the colour of the light the brown of the kangaroo's fur will stand out better against a green vegetation background.
  
  The Osram bulb used was originally developed for medical use and is much whiter than most automotive halogen designs. It does appear yellow by comparison with HID or LED, but this isn't necessarily a bad thing.
  
  I actually run a combination of HID high beams with the Nemesis. This allows me to boost the blue end of the spectrum a little, filling in what is missing from the halogen bulb and giving an overall output which more approaches natural sunlight in colour.
• The large reflector is much more efficient at controlling and directing the light output from the bulb. Although LED reflector design has improved greatly it still isn't anywhere near as good and so halogen (and HID) lights have a significant advantage in both range and beam pattern as a much lower percentage of the total light produced (raw lumens) is lost in stray forward projection.
• There are quite a few LED driving lights on the market with high wattages (180-240w). Of course the LEDs are at 12v, not 24v and claimed lumens have been proven in many cases to be, ummm..........................optimistic.
  
  In order to compete with the efficiencies of a halogen/HID reflector system the LED light manufacturers have had to pack in more and bigger LEDs into each light. This, of course, creates a problem with heat so they drive the LEDs at a much lower level which produces less heat and less light. Less light means they need more or bigger LEDs.....do you see a pattern emerging here? It's so much easier to either lie about the output or misquote outputs at maximum factory test levels rather than what is actually in the light.
  
  I have driven with at least one of these LED driving light systems and the Nemesis is, from both subjective and objective viewpoints, vastly superior. Much more light and easier to see.

When Fyrlyt were doing their development of the Nemesis I was fortunate enough to be included in the project, along with a number of professional drivers, mostly truckies operating in North Queensland and the NT. Most of those guys had been using LED systems, especially Great White and almost unanimously they commented that the Nemesis was a much better light than the LED. I'd had HID previous to the Nemesis so things like the instant on and better road verge illumination appealed to me, again with the much better CRI.


in the night time offraod racing world a lot of teams went to LED and have now switched back to halogen. Again, the colour improves the ability of the driver to pick up small shifts that may indicate the presence of holes or similar. So, they're steering more accurately by being better equipped to make those instantaneous decisions. That means less damage and more chance of making it to the finish line ahead of the competitor.

Yes, a custom harness is required. I've been running Nemesis for a few years and made my own harness which has performed faultlessly. At a minimum both power and earth wires need to be 10ga or 6mm2. Heavier is better because there isn't the same tolerance in voltage that most nominally 12v lights give. By that I mean that the transformers output 24v exactly and the bulbs need every bit of that to perform at their best.



250w at 24v mate, not 12v. So 10.4A, which the charging system on the Pajero will handle with ease.



A few reasons:

• Most important is the CRI or Colour Rendering Index. Most LEDs have a very poor ability to render colour accurately where halogen is much better at this. This means that, for example, that kangaroo on the side of the road up ahead will be much more visible under halogen light than LED. The light is more natural with less of the blue end of the spectrum, making it much easier on the eyes than LED, or HID, where the greater proportion of blue actually causes your pupils to constrict, allowing less light in and reducing your ability to see.
  
  What this means is that with more red in the colour of the light the brown of the kangaroo's fur will stand out better against a green vegetation background.
  
  The Osram bulb used was originally developed for medical use and is much whiter than most automotive halogen designs. It does appear yellow by comparison with HID or LED, but this isn't necessarily a bad thing.
  
  I actually run a combination of HID high beams with the Nemesis. This allows me to boost the blue end of the spectrum a little, filling in what is missing from the halogen bulb and giving an overall output which more approaches natural sunlight in colour.
• The large reflector is much more efficient at controlling and directing the light output from the bulb. Although LED reflector design has improved greatly it still isn't anywhere near as good and so halogen (and HID) lights have a significant advantage in both range and beam pattern as a much lower percentage of the total light produced (raw lumens) is lost in stray forward projection.
• There are quite a few LED driving lights on the market with high wattages (180-240w). Of course the LEDs are at 12v, not 24v and claimed lumens have been proven in many cases to be, ummm..........................optimistic.
  
  In order to compete with the efficiencies of a halogen/HID reflector system the LED light manufacturers have had to pack in more and bigger LEDs into each light. This, of course, creates a problem with heat so they drive the LEDs at a much lower level which produces less heat and less light. Less light means they need more or bigger LEDs.....do you see a pattern emerging here? It's so much easier to either lie about the output or misquote outputs at maximum factory test levels rather than what is actually in the light.
  
  I have driven with at least one of these LED driving light systems and the Nemesis is, from both subjective and objective viewpoints, vastly superior. Much more light and easier to see.

When Fyrlyt were doing their development of the Nemesis I was fortunate enough to be included in the project, along with a number of professional drivers, mostly truckies operating in North Queensland and the NT. Most of those guys had been using LED systems, especially Great White and almost unanimously they commented that the Nemesis was a much better light than the LED. I'd had HID previous to the Nemesis so things like the instant on and better road verge illumination appealed to me, again with the much better CRI.


in the night time offraod racing world a lot of teams went to LED and have now switched back to halogen. Again, the colour improves the ability of the driver to pick up small shifts that may indicate the presence of holes or similar. So, they're steering more accurately by being better equipped to make those instantaneous decisions. That means less damage and more chance of making it to the finish line ahead of the competitor.

Really have to question what you posted here. From what i can tell they are 250watts each so at 12v thats about 40amps on the pajero system. Dont know how you can get 250watts at 24v only. 10.4A at 12v is just 125watts. Please tell if i missed something.

Anyway this whole story about the CRI has got to be the most eggagerated BS. Like audiophiles that say there expensive amp is so much better. To the average person CRI is pretty unimportant. The added improvment in avoiding wildlife with these would be .002% If you cant get by with led or hid you shouldn't be on the roads.
I have extreme high powered led and hid flashlights and i can see things perfectly fine because your eyesight is what matters not some silly cri. I have riden bikes with nothing more than 700lumens on all sorts of crazy tracks so it is the operator not the fancy tech that matters. Although i have seen 300 and 1000watt halogen sealed beams and they look warm and beautiful. The problem with incan will always be low output per wattage, great for truckers but not practical on a 4wd.

If there are issues with led than be specific like which brand? The website with the nemesis lights is littered with vauge meanigless assertions. One issue with led even top brands is their lifespan is questionable. No realworld standards like 5000hours tested retaing 90% output.