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I can't edit my old DIY - My images are broken there so here it is re-hosted
From fiddling around at all the systems I thought I should put it all together in a DIY write-up
If you have a mechanical problem ( flashing lights) then you should have a look here
This is merely my electrical fix as my lights wasn't working properly
NB: Please go through the whole thread before starting so you have a good idea of what to expect and where to be careful.
Gain access to the 4x4 lights control module
It is easy to access if you remove the front panel ( 2 screws on top part - look from a low down angle ) and the radio
NB : remeber to perform these tests with the ignition in the correct position
** don't mind the green and red marks as this was my troubleshooting findings **
should you pass all these tests then you need to check the bulbs - further down the page
If you don't pass then check the working of your lights by grounding the wires going to the transmission switches
- If you don't get these results, you have a break in the wiring and need to trace the fault or replace the wiring
NB: remember to have the ignition in the 'ON' position
***I did not comment on the rear wheel lights as they should always be on with the ignition.***
I managed to fix my number 5 switch by turning the washer around as the previous person tightened it so tight that it deformed the washer slightly
NOTES on number 5 switch
* It is a pin type switch
* at rest position = no continuity between thread and wire
* between 1mm - 4mm pin pressed into switch = continuity between thread and wire
* pressed in further than 4mm = no continuity between thread and wire
Thus the washer thickness is of extreme importance
NB : Number 1 switch is a ball switch
To gain access to the bulbs
SWITCH THE IGNITION OFF! (or disconnect the battery as a better option - remember your radio code and alarm repercussions if you disconnect the battery)
remove the cluster cover - 2 screw in front on the sides and 1 screw at the back underneath a little cover
NB : you need a stubby screwdriver to get to the back screw
NB : throw a cloth over the back vents as a screw down there will spoil your evening
slowly remove the cover and disconnect the wiring of the switches ( fogs, hazards, *cruise, rear window heater ) at the back of the cluster - be careful as you don't want to damage any wiring
NB: ALL the connections have some sort of button you need to push before taking out the wiring plug
Then you need to remove all the small screws holding the cluster cover on ( Not the 3 big ones yet )
NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!
once those screws are out you can gently remove the plastic cover THEN the black cover THEN the clear plastic over the 4x4 lights and THEN the black film over the 4x4 lights - it should come off VERY easily.
NB: You cannot replace the bulbs at this point as you need to gain access from the back - Trust me on this one
You can now unscrew the big three screws to loosen the cluster.
NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!
I pulled the right side of the cluster slightly forward to loosen the 2 connectors there first
NB: be gentle as the wiring board at the back is actually a thin film ( see picture below )
I then GENTLY loosened the other side connectors
NB: There are 2 big connectors left
NB: There are 2 big connectors right
NB: a single spade type connector ( not marked in the image ) on the left
NB: the speedo drive is just loose and should EASILY slide out
NB: ONCE AGAIN THE CONNECTORS HAVE BUTTONS TO PRESS TO GET THEM OUT - IF YOU FORCE YOU WILL BREAK THE WHOLE CLUSTER - I WARNED YOU!!!!!
You can then gain access to the bulbs with the cluster out - simply give a slight twist clockwise ( I found needle nose pliers useful here )
The bulbs simply pull out of the black plastic seater with a bit of persuasion ( i wish i had rubber tipped pliers as it took ages trying to pull it out with my thumb and fore finger - IF YOU TRY PLIERS THEY WILL POP - I WARNED YOU AGAIN! )
You can then replace them and put everything back together ( ala haynes - 'assembly is reverse of removal' )
NB: I just swapped in the A/T temp and diff lock bulbs as I don't have either ( You can try the cruise control bulb as well )
From the mitsubishi workshop manual
From fiddling around at all the systems I thought I should put it all together in a DIY write-up
If you have a mechanical problem ( flashing lights) then you should have a look here
This is merely my electrical fix as my lights wasn't working properly
NB: Please go through the whole thread before starting so you have a good idea of what to expect and where to be careful.
Gain access to the 4x4 lights control module
It is easy to access if you remove the front panel ( 2 screws on top part - look from a low down angle ) and the radio
NB : remeber to perform these tests with the ignition in the correct position
** don't mind the green and red marks as this was my troubleshooting findings **
should you pass all these tests then you need to check the bulbs - further down the page
If you don't pass then check the working of your lights by grounding the wires going to the transmission switches
- If you don't get these results, you have a break in the wiring and need to trace the fault or replace the wiring
NB: remember to have the ignition in the 'ON' position
***I did not comment on the rear wheel lights as they should always be on with the ignition.***
I managed to fix my number 5 switch by turning the washer around as the previous person tightened it so tight that it deformed the washer slightly
NOTES on number 5 switch
* It is a pin type switch
* at rest position = no continuity between thread and wire
* between 1mm - 4mm pin pressed into switch = continuity between thread and wire
* pressed in further than 4mm = no continuity between thread and wire
Thus the washer thickness is of extreme importance
NB : Number 1 switch is a ball switch
To gain access to the bulbs
SWITCH THE IGNITION OFF! (or disconnect the battery as a better option - remember your radio code and alarm repercussions if you disconnect the battery)
remove the cluster cover - 2 screw in front on the sides and 1 screw at the back underneath a little cover
NB : you need a stubby screwdriver to get to the back screw
NB : throw a cloth over the back vents as a screw down there will spoil your evening
slowly remove the cover and disconnect the wiring of the switches ( fogs, hazards, *cruise, rear window heater ) at the back of the cluster - be careful as you don't want to damage any wiring
NB: ALL the connections have some sort of button you need to push before taking out the wiring plug
Then you need to remove all the small screws holding the cluster cover on ( Not the 3 big ones yet )
NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!
once those screws are out you can gently remove the plastic cover THEN the black cover THEN the clear plastic over the 4x4 lights and THEN the black film over the 4x4 lights - it should come off VERY easily.
NB: You cannot replace the bulbs at this point as you need to gain access from the back - Trust me on this one
You can now unscrew the big three screws to loosen the cluster.
NB : a good magnet tipped screwdriver is crucial - a screw dropped is not fun!
I pulled the right side of the cluster slightly forward to loosen the 2 connectors there first
NB: be gentle as the wiring board at the back is actually a thin film ( see picture below )
I then GENTLY loosened the other side connectors
NB: There are 2 big connectors left
NB: There are 2 big connectors right
NB: a single spade type connector ( not marked in the image ) on the left
NB: the speedo drive is just loose and should EASILY slide out
NB: ONCE AGAIN THE CONNECTORS HAVE BUTTONS TO PRESS TO GET THEM OUT - IF YOU FORCE YOU WILL BREAK THE WHOLE CLUSTER - I WARNED YOU!!!!!
You can then gain access to the bulbs with the cluster out - simply give a slight twist clockwise ( I found needle nose pliers useful here )
The bulbs simply pull out of the black plastic seater with a bit of persuasion ( i wish i had rubber tipped pliers as it took ages trying to pull it out with my thumb and fore finger - IF YOU TRY PLIERS THEY WILL POP - I WARNED YOU AGAIN! )
You can then replace them and put everything back together ( ala haynes - 'assembly is reverse of removal' )
NB: I just swapped in the A/T temp and diff lock bulbs as I don't have either ( You can try the cruise control bulb as well )
From the mitsubishi workshop manual
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