NW - Hard to start when tank fuel level low

[Obelix]

Hi,

My Diesel NW 2014 has been hard to start (8+rotations) when the fuel level is low in the tank.
It also stalls a bit at these times - but it would last only for a few seconds, then pick up again.

This is the second time it happened. The first time i topped up the tank and drove it 4-5 kms on a freeway and it cleared.
The second time, I took it to the freeway, but the problem didn't fix itself.
However, it went back to normal as soon as I topped up the tank. I only use Vortex Diesel.

It now works well, but I noticed a bit of grey smoke when I start, and occassionally, when idling on traffic lights (but not always).

I suspect dirty Diesel which stirs as the level goes low, but before I do something drastic like flushing the tank, I was hoping for some advice.

Maybe there is a good fueld additive? Or some filter to flush?
I'm very new to this car so any advice would be appreciated.

[erad]

Check the tightness of the hose clamps on the fuel lines. The fuel filter is above the level of the fuel in the tank, and therefore the fuel system at this point is under slight vacuum. Air can leak into the system and thus destroy the vacuum and prevent the fuel pump from sucking fuel to the common rail. Theoretically, the fuel filter should filter out any contaminants, and the level of the fuel in the tank should not affect the starting, but if you have a minor air leak, this is when it will show up.

[shawty950]

If its only when the tank is low have a look at this thread

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=46638

[Obelix]

Thanks a lot guys,

Will follow up on your advice. Will check the clamps first - easier...

Quite an interesting finding Shawty950.
Need to check on the service history, and twist dealer's hand if they charged me for the replacement

Did you have to flush the tank as well?

[erad]

Shawty's reply may be the answer to your problem. If this is the answer, I think the problem is algae buildup in the fuel. What was happening was that the losses across that pre-filter were too high, but putting more fuel in overcame those losses. You can get additives which will kill the algae. CEM make a product which they claim to clean the entire fuel system. I am using this now, but have had no problems such as this up so far - I am trying to head them off before they happen.

[Obelix]

Just re-checked a very thorough, and expensive dealer service report - they claim they inspected the fuel hoses clamps, so I'll assume that's not the cause.

The next step is to replace the in-tank filter. Having said that, if the fuel is dirty - or if I have an algae problem, the new one would get clogged quickly.
The actual filter condition may indicate the cause.

Not sure how long the car was stationary at the dealer's yard before I bought it.
Alagae may be the cause.

re: CEM cleaner
But is unlikely to unclog the filter?

Will first call Mitsubishi dealership for the quote (the car is still under warranty - dont' wish it voided), and may replace it myself if the quote is too much.

[BruceandBobbi]

Will first call Mitsubishi dealership for the quote (the car is still under warranty - dont' wish it voided), and may replace it myself if the quote is too much.


Previous owner may have used cheap no name diesel at $1-23.7 per litre. Replace the filter i yourself with OEM. No warranty drama.

Also keep an eye on the under bonnet filter.

[Obelix]

>>>Replace the filter i yourself with OEM. No warranty drama.

Struggling to find any reference to NW in tank fuel filters and where to buy them.
Heaps of petrol in-tank filters, for under the bonnet filters, but nothing for the in-tank.

Anyone can point me in a right direction?

Found this:

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Mitsubishi&ssd=%24HQwXW1d0BwADBgJYVEhMRVFdW1d0B1tVTQVNa3VVcnJ4H1JMXl1RUhM%24&vid=10047&cid=&uid=335559&q=JMFLYV98WEJ006795

entered the VIN and everything popped out - then navigate to the auto part. Quite impressive :-)

[Allan2]

Clean your MAF sensor in the top of the air cleaner. Disconnect the multi plug, It is held in place with two Phillips screws. Super cheap has the correct cleaner follow the instructions on the can.
Allan

[Obelix]

Clean your MAF sensor in the top of the air cleaner. Disconnect the multi plug, It is held in place with two Phillips screws. Super cheap has the correct cleaner follow the instructions on the can.
Allan

Thanks for the advice Allan. Will do it.
Can you educate me a bit on how is this related to the low tank?
Edit: Hopefully this reads right just curious to connect it and learn something.

[BruceandBobbi]

Thanks for the advice Allan. Will do it.
Can you educate me a bit on how is this related to the low tank?

I would like to be educated also. I can't see a connection.

[Obelix]

The car drives really well until I get to the last 1/8th. But nothing wrong with cleaning up the sensor.

The Mitsubishi dealership service could not reply to my phone calls for two days (?), so I ordered the parts (filter/gasket) - will replace it myself.

Appreciate everyone's response. All very helpful. Thanks.

[Obelix]

So finally, rolled up my sleeves and replaced the filter.
I was dreading this - expecting all sorts of unexpected issues.

I thought I could describe the process, as it could be useful to the next person:

So, opened the top cover - easy - bolts size 10.
The next level cover is not well positioned - a bit more to the right, so awkward access.
nuts size 10 - undone. The cover wouldn't come off - it's glued to the surface with a soft glue. A short screwdriver helped to detach.
The cover wouldn't come through the upper hole. Had to bend one corner to twist it through I could see that it was originally bent as well. Well designed.

Then the tank access cover... even further to the right, and not much space.
Pinched the hoses with the correct tool for that. One hose slipped off OK, another took some effort (and some blood) to come off.
A little bit of Diesel spilled - not much - all good.

6 nuts tied up to the welded bolt - size 8 - sigh - tiny. Poor access - the wrench rotates 1/8 of the turn - prepare to sleep over in the car...
Mitsubishy kindly sprayed the black paint over the the whole thing in black so the nuts are hard to undo. Snapped one ...
A powerfull penetrator spray used then - should have used it first, but it is not rusty - it's the paint over the thread.

OK - all came off - pulling out - one rubber hose from the tank needed to be detached - hooked outside so it doesn't slip back in.
The top needs to manouvre through the two openings - takes a bit of twisting - some Diesel splashed around during the process. Have a rug handy.

Finally able to inspect the filter - it's black from the sooth. Later inspected it near the strong light - nothing comes through - so it was definitelly required. (See attachment).

Placed the whole thing in a small bucket ( I prepared earlier - so I was thinking through a bit )
The filter release bolt needs a large Phillips screwdriver - the medium one wouldn't work.
Replaced the filter - a short hose connector (the system to the filter ) easily comes off - watch not to lose it.

So tightened the filter back on, started inserting it back - the loose hose plugged back to the other end.
Replaced the rubber gasket over the top, as I forgot to do it while it was detached. The new gasket wasn't really needed - it seemed good - but it was cheap to replace.
The whole thing manipulated back through two openings and the tank top fitted back to now 5 bolts...
Slowly tightened back the nuts - a bit easier as the paint is no longer in the way.
The middle cover inserted, then the metal straightened inside to be flat again - At least it was close enough. Decided not to apply silicone, as the glue was not fully hard. It will be tight.
The last top tightened. Cleaning up.
Test drive was OK.

The tank is now at 1/4 and it's a good timing to verify that the car starts easier with the tank 3/4 and more empty. Will know more tomorrow.

So, fingers crossed the cold starting will improve, and fingers corossed the 5 bolts will keep the tank cover tight - otherwise I saved $300-$400 and caused $2000-$3000 in damage.

Wasn't as trivial as expected - but would do it easier next time.
Lessons learned:
patience is required.
Work the tank cover tiny nuts slowly back and forth until the paint is gone.
Use only a high quality Diesel where available.

[erad]

Excellent - it seems as if you have fund the problem. Now, what about the rest of the tank? It is probably full of sh1t as well. I would try some chemical treatment to hopefully mobilise the crap and then replace both that tank filter and the under-bonnet jobbie. Hopefully you will then have a relatively clean fuel system. It may even be better to completely remove the tank and wash it out (there is no drain bung to help you). Thanks for the writeup on removal of the tank filter.

[BruceandBobbi]

Use only a high quality Diesel where available.

Yep. Cheap diesel is cheap diesel for a reason.

Hope you finally have it sorted.