3 core brass radiator

[Peoplesvic]

Hi,



Has anyone got one of these in the past? I need a new radiator and im trying to think why this wouldnt be a good idea.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copper-Brass-3-Row-Radiator-Mitsubishi-Pajero-NM-NP-NS-NT-Diesel-AT-MT-5-2000-On/322062549694?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[nj swb]

Two questions come to mind: weight, and cooling capacity.

As I understand it, aluminium radiators are used because they're lighter than brass. The difference in weight won't cause your suspension to collapse, but it's very easy to overload a vehicle in lots of small incremental steps - death by a thousand cuts, so to speak. How much heavier will this radiator be, and how much more coolant will it hold?

The radiator you linked is advertised as NM - NT. The service manual for the NT diesel lists the factory radiator cooling capacity as 285,000 kJ per hour. What is the rating for this radiator?

The front row of the radiator core will cool more efficiently than the second row, as it gets the coolest air. After the air has passed two radiator cores and reached the third it will be warmer, and the third core won't cool as effectively as the first and second rows. Will the third core really make a significant difference to cooling capacity?

Edit: I'm not suggesting you shouldn't buy it, but I am genuinely interested in the above numbers. Depending on how the numbers look I might be interested in one myself.

[erad]

The ad doesn't specifically say it, but I would check that the header tanks are made from brass or copper - NOT plastic. With 3 rows of tubes, you will get more cooling than 2 rows, but certainly not 50% more as described above. As for the weight, I think the difference will be minimal. Aluminium has nearly double the thermal conductivity of brass, so it will transfer the heat quicker than brass. Aluminium also is more suited galvanically to the alloy heads than brass, so there is likely to be slightly less corrosion developed by the galvanic difference. All of these points are minor - I suspect the main reason to use aluminium is cost.

[gemster]

Best to go to a Radiator shop or ring them... I found out the hard way... For what you pay for on Ebay, for a few extra $, you can get good ones from Rad shops...

I looked into Alloy radiators, not worth it.. Most Rad shops will NOT touch an Alloy rad... They split with-in 12 months... Mine did after 2 months..
As for other Radiators on Ebay, Buyer Beware... You really do get ripped with what you think is Quality...

Google the Radiator you mentioned and others on ebay... Lots of bad reviews...

Gemster....

[disco stu]

Personally, I've had a good run out of cheap eBay aluminum radiators, both cost air $100 each. Got 2 on falcon and Camry, purchased more than 4 yrs ago. Both giving no problems so far (touch wood). The one in the Camry worked to well with a thermostat that was opening early

[El_Freddo]

Personally, I've had a good run out of cheap eBay aluminum radiators, both cost air $100 each. Got 2 on falcon and Camry, purchased more than 4 yrs ago. Both giving no problems so far (touch wood). The one in the Camry worked to well with a thermostat that was opening early

Those radiators will be fine on road. I got one for my Subaru L series. While driving from Norseman to the wave rock, the corrugations in the road broke three cooling channels at the top of the end tank, resulting in the car overheating! I now have a rad shop purchased dual core copper core rad with plastic end tanks in it and no problems!

If you’re really after a custom radiator, check out http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/ They’ll build what you want

While the third channel in a three row radiator may be hotter than the front channel, the increase in coolant capacity of the system would also lend itself to increasing the cooling ability of the radiator. But I’m no expert in the subject so I could be completely wrong.

Cheers

Bennie

[Ocean]

Hi,



Has anyone got one of these in the past? I need a new radiator and im trying to think why this wouldnt be a good idea.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copper-B...53.m1438.l2649

I put one of those in, but in hindsight when researched later Aluminum design is more efficient and lighter for more or less the same effect in a larger size copper brass.

Practically I found no difference even though it holds more coolant I played with everything to improve cooling. In the end a head change solved mine. (But you’re asking about replacement not solving a cooling issue)

Later there were others on eBay Aluminum same thickness as the copper brass for a similar price, they would be better for multiple reasons.


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[Peoplesvic]

It is to resolve a cooling issue. It heats up climbing ranges. Got my hands on an IR thermometer and the passenger side of the core is about 30 degrees cooler than the drivers side. I’m pretty sure a new un clogged radiator will fix it but I have been looking around to see what is out there.

[Scrambler]

It is to resolve a cooling issue. It heats up climbing ranges. Got my hands on an IR thermometer and the passenger side of the core is about 30 degrees cooler than the drivers side. I’m pretty sure a new un clogged radiator will fix it but I have been looking around to see what is out there.

"Back in the day" you'd get the radiator flushed to fix this. Isn't that done any more?

[Ocean]

It is to resolve a cooling issue. It heats up climbing ranges. Got my hands on an IR thermometer and the passenger side of the core is about 30 degrees cooler than the drivers side. I’m pretty sure a new un clogged radiator will fix it but I have been looking around to see what is out there.

If you have done all the other obvious things start with a new original size radiator or go the bigger aluminum before spending too much it might be more serious.

What I did to resolve cooling aside from the obvious:
* Larger capacity Brass copper radiator
* Extra electric fan at the front of AC/condenser
* Override switch to turn on when I wanted it on the factory thermo fan
* Disconnect the AT cooling line from running through the bottom of the radiator.
* secondary AT cooler on top of the factory in case it was adding to engine heat.
* check for leaks and clean turbo intercooler
* check the Turbo to inlet manifold line for leaks
* remove all bash plates (Bushskinz full set)
* remove the engine cover
* fit a thermostat that opens at 72 degrees rather than the factory sec one of 76.5

None of them made a difference climbing and towing was the main issue but the fan clutch was the main issue that solved climbing not towing getting hot. I even got a genuine fan clutch from Amayama and it was worse than my extra silicone oil added Dayco.
I’ve searched the forum high and low and I have not seen anyone whom replaced the obvious cooling system components whom still had a problem with engine cooling after they did all those things resolve cooling without the more expensive/more involved DIY fix. (i.e. the head or gasket)

Hopefully yours is just radiator.


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[Peoplesvic]

It’s got a lot of red grime in it. I spoke to a radiator shop and they said it would be cheaper to replace it then clean it out.

[El_Freddo]

It’s got a lot of red grime in it. I spoke to a radiator shop and they said it would be cheaper to replace it then clean it out.

Sounds like a lazy rad shop there. You should have a radiator with plastic end tanks and an alloy core. This should easily be cleaned out and resealed.

The only reason I could see them saying to replace is that they’re not willing to put a limited warranty on their work because they may not guarantee a solid seal on the end tanks.

Cheers

Bennie

[GHendo]

I’ve never heard of shops cleaning radiators with plastic tanks. In my day they’d take the steel (or copper) tanks off, poke bayonets through the core then solder the tanks back on – I don’t know that attaching a plastic tank back on is possible or practical. The radiator shops around here won’t do it.

Cheers

Geoff

[geopaj]

I’ve never heard of shops cleaning radiators with plastic tanks. In my day they’d take the steel (or copper) tanks off, poke bayonets through the core then solder the tanks back on – I don’t know that attaching a plastic tank back on is possible or practical. The radiator shops around here won’t do it.

Cheers

Geoff

Yep, the plastic tanks tend to get brittle from constant hot/cold cycling - especially the top tank. They can be removed and refitted but, given the age of the OP’s Paj, I reckon the OP would also be up for new tanks

[pharb]

Yep, the plastic tanks tend to get brittle from constant hot/cold cycling - especially the top tank. They can be removed and refitted but, given the age of the OP’s Paj, I reckon the OP would also be up for new tanks

Correct.

I've had the top tanks replaced on a couple of radiators on my "good" cars, so I knew they had quality cores and tanks.

And then on some "runarounds" where reliability and longetivity wasn't such a priority I just replaced the whole radiator with an eBay elcheapo as it was cheaper.

However whilst they were elcheapo I never had any issues with them.