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Am I doing any damage then, by putting auto in neutral while stopped at traffic lights, believing this is saving the clutch plates from wear. Any thoughts anyone?
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99 NL Escape 3.5L V6 LWB Wagon, "Aisin Auto", MM Alum Protector Bar, MM factory 'steel' underbody protector plates, Engine oil cooler, Transmission oil cooler, Side rails, Flares, MM Alloy wheels, HANKOOK Dynapro ATM LT tyres, Aftermarket Alarm, MM A.I.S. HPR15 Penrite engine oil. Penrite LS140 diff oil with 250ml LIMSLIP additive 7098. -
cant see how it could do damage, fluid moves regardless of the gear its in?? when I drained the auto fluid, i disconnected the hose from the cooler, ran it in neutal until it stopped flowing, and I can tell you, it was flowing very well, had a massive spash as it hit the pan (got tranny fluid everywhere lol) would be interesting to hear from others
Regards
Marc05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.
To-do:
brake upgrade, oil seals (again!!) -
You will be creating (much) more wear actually as the bands & clutch packs have to disengage and engage, each time having to grab a spinning input shaft and slow & stop the output of the torque converter. When stopped in Drive all the slip is in the torque converter, which is exactly what it was designed / built to do.Originally posted by MTN-KAT View Post2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
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